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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    2,572

    Default Re: 9 or 10 frames in the broodchamber?

    If you want to go with narrow frames, it's best to make them with 7/8" wide top bars. This leaves 3/8" between the bars. Makes them easier to get out (you can get a hive tool between them more easily, or at least I can) and the bees appreciate the extra room. Brood comb with be flush with the bar, too, so will honey storage.

    With 1.25" wide frames, 11 fit very nicely with enough room at the sides to pull one back with no problem. Bees seem to fill them out just as well as the wider frames, and the brood combs are wonderfully flat and even.

    Peter

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Menomonee Falls, Wis.
    Posts
    2,812

    Default Re: 9 or 10 frames in the broodchamber?

    I can support the large numbers of frames with brood. Our goal is , excluding the two outer pollen frames, 8 frames down, with 5 hung up in a single deep brood chamber. Most frames will be well filled with brood, with a small triangle of honey in the upper corners. Make that Queen Work!!!

    Crazy Roland

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Santa Monica, CA, USA
    Posts
    1,544

    Default Re: 9 or 10 frames in the broodchamber?

    When I prepared for bees, I read somewhere that 9 frames/10-frame box have some advantages. If I remember correctly, the main advantage of having 9 frames in the brood-box was a bigger space, which prevents mites to be transferred from one bee to another - instead, mites drop on the screened bottom. I decided to setup my beehive this way since had no personal preference (or biased mentor) at that time. My situation even more complicated because I decided to go foundationless from the very beginning. So, after one full year, I have the following:
    - I crush-and-strain honey.
    - bees were never treated. Varroa 24h counts on sticky board are stable - 10-20, which considered to be high!
    - bees produce perfect parallel comb with very little cross-comb. In September, I gave them the empty super with foundationless "bars". Since September, they filled it up with perfect parallel comb and honey (not capped yet). Another supper is 70% full.
    - It is quite difficult to remove frames, but I have none to compare. My understanding is that my bees LOVE propolis! I use propolis for medical needs - win-win situation.
    - Honeycomb is 1.5x thicker than usual (I had a few frames with foundation from the past).
    - I collected so far approximately 30 kilos of honey, but keep in mind that 1-2 full of honey supers are permanently at bees disposal, they never tested the syrup.
    - byproduct of my tiny "bee-business" is wax for candles, propolis for health and honey-wine, the mead. So far, my friends feel that mead is the best part.

    Unfortunately, my "experiment" is incomplete because there is nothing to compare and I have only 2 permitted beehives total. Nevertheless, I feel, there are few possible advantages of 9/10 configuration in combination with screened bottom and foundationless:
    - I attribute my high varroa counts to the bigger space between frames, so live mites drops and ended up on the sticky board. This way, more mites removed from the beehive leaving less mites on the bees.
    - in SoCal ventilation is important - bigger space and screened bottom board looks like good for this.
    - foundationless in general, gives bees more flexibility, so they could plan their space accordingly.
    - It is my believe that many bees problem are originated from the stress. Less stress - healthier bees. In my situation, it looks like, combination of factors make bees healthier and therefore less prone to diseases and mites. I need many more years to prove this statement.
    Last edited by cerezha; 11-26-2012 at 11:29 PM. Reason: statement instead theory
    Серёжа, Sergey

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