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Thread: Cheaper Wood?

  1. #21
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    Apr 2011
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    Palermo, Maine, USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    I buy rough cut green wood in the spring and store it in my shop until it is ready to be used. I store it stacked with stickers (spacers) between each layer of boards and a space between boards of each layer. It takes several months for it to dry enough.
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    Ralph

  2. #22
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    Feb 2012
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    West Bath, Maine, United States
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Cheaper wood is not the same as the best wood. The more you invest the better the product. What I will do to have a box now is not what I will do to have the box I really want. A piece of wood trim inside the house is another step up.
    Cheaper now or cheaper later is a whole different debate.

  3. #23
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    Feb 2010
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    Park City Ky
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Our local saw mill has a sprinkler system that keeps the logs that are yarded, waiting for sawing, wet, during the Summer months. They do this to keep the bark soft because the bark is removed with rolling cutters before the log is sawed. This bark is then sold for mulch.

    The deal I make for pine and poplar is, $.50 a board foot, any length the mill has, they pick the boards as they cut (almost all knot free, only small solid knots, no knots on edges of board) and when they get 500 board foot they call and I go pick up, strip stack it for 12 to 18 months. I find I need 11 inch width boards to cure and have enough to cut 9 9/16 boxes after curing. All of my pine, cypress, and poplar is cut 11 inches for deeps and 7 inches for shallows.

    cchoganjr

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleo C. Hogan Jr View Post
    Guess we are just lucky here, we can get poplar for anywhere from $.25 bf to $.50 bf, with most wanting $.48 bf for select, no knots, cut to 11 inch width
    I would say you are lucky Cleo. Around here, I can get air dried pine at $0.75 bf, and that's the best I've been able to find. I can get green wood for $0.55 bf, and I've found a spot an hour and a half away from me that sells their unusable boards at $0.50 bf. The boards are labeled kiln dried, but the place says they are air dried. Usually they are cupping somewhat, and about one third have a crack down 1/4 of the board, sometimes more.

    Even still, at $0.50 bf it beats lowes or home depot prices. And if 1/4 of the board isn't useable as a hive body, I can still trim it down and use it for other things.

  5. #25
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    Dec 2010
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    Coatesville, Pa, USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleo C. Hogan Jr View Post
    Delber are you saying paint the ends of the boards?? I have never done this, and yes, I do often get a crack 4 to 6 inches long on the ends of the boards. Most of my boards are never square, and their 10 foot boards are normally 10ft, 6 inches long. That has made up for the end cracks. If paint on the ends will reduce or eliminate this, I will start painting them after they are stacked..

    Thanks.

    cchoganjr
    Yes I'm saying that I paint the end grane of the board. The key is to paint them ASAP. I painted the ends of a white oak log the same day that they were cut which was only about a week or so after it was felled and there are very few checks. Just use some cheap paint and a small roller is all you need. It will help a lot.

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    I guess I just never noticed it, but, some of the cypress boards have been painted blue.

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    cchoganjr[
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #27
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    Sep 2011
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    Strafford, NH, USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Saltybee View Post
    Cheaper wood is not the same as the best wood. The more you invest the better the product. What I will do to have a box now is not what I will do to have the box I really want. A piece of wood trim inside the house is another step up.
    Cheaper now or cheaper later is a whole different debate.
    I agree completely, but HD and Lowes charge through the nose for their junky (premium) boards, and the best wood doesn't need to be the most expensive wood either if I can source it from a local mill for less. I wish I had the space to stack and dry boards inside.

  8. #28
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    Sep 2007
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    Hudson, WI USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    To the OP, Craigslist has been good to me for 1X12 pine at about 30 cents/foot. I live 30 miles from Minneapolist/Saint Paul MN. and when someone is rahabbing an old house or pulling shelving from a basement or garage the pine appears in the listings. Making boxes is my winter project.
    http://s1110.beta.photobucket.com/us...tml?sort=6&o=0
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  9. #29
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleo C. Hogan Jr View Post
    I guess I just never noticed it, but, some of the cypress boards have been painted blue.
    cchoganjr[
    I don't know that there's a "standard" out there, but I've seen at least a given supplier use one color paint for a given type of wood. (I went back several times for the same type of wood (curly maple) and they were all painted white, while I think walnut was blue and poplar was red) So in a stack you can see what you have.

  10. #30
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleo C. Hogan Jr View Post
    One full year with the rough cut, strip stacked inside, will get the moisture content down to 11% to 15 %. Good enough for bee boxes.
    You must use a moisture meter. That is a good idea. I have thought about getting one, but have not yet. I store my lumber in overhead racks in my shop. My shop is heated by a wood stove, so the humidity level is very low. I just judge how dry the lumber is by "feel". I have 3 racks and the top boards alway dry fastest, so I just check each rack taking the lightest boards. The lightest obviously are the driest. Not very scientific, I know, but seems to work for me.
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  11. #31
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Adrian. Nice Nucs. I notice you are using cleats on them. Beesource has my plans in their free library for making the D shape hand hold like the commercial boxes and a link to the video to show you how, if you want to put that type handle on them.

    People might also check the Habitat for Humanity Restore for 1 X 12. I have found it there. Both shelving grade and roofing grade. They sell it cheap.

    ralittefield... Yes those moisture meters are not expensive. I stack my wood in a big barn, and also stack some on the tier poles up in the barn.

    cchoganjr

  12. #32
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    I am not sure you must use a moisture meter. after a while you can pickup a board and have a good idea if it is dry enough or not. It becomes a matter of to wet or dry enough rather than a moisture reading.

    Warping not nearly as much of an issue in short boards. Cupping is more likely in wider boards but that one is easy to look at the end grain and see if it is likely to cup a lot or a little. All wood warps expands and contracts. The issue is how much

    A rule of thumb in drying time for green wood is one year per inch of thickness. a 3/4 inch by 12 inch wide board would then need to be stacked to dry for 9 months. It takes about 2 here because it is so dry. faster drying cracks more wood. You can do the same thing in a kiln in a few days. A microwave can dry wood in minutes. I've done it and it is very interesting to do. you can actually see the wood warping, shrinking etc as it dries. Quick lesson in what to expect for any sort of grain as it dries.
    Stand for what you believe, even if you stand alone.

  13. #33
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    A key to reducing warping / checking as the wood dries is both painting the ends, and stickering. Cutting 3/4" square (dry, not green wood) pieces to space about every foot - foot and a half and keep them in line going up the stack. I think the article above talks about stickers. I put a piece of plywood on top (with stickers under it / on top of the top board) with a few cinder blocks for weight for the top boards. I hope this makes sense.

  14. #34
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    delber... I use spacers in my stacks, but I only use 4 spacers per 10 and 12 foot boards, (as you can see in the photo above) and they cure perfectly.

    cchoganjr

  15. #35
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    Jan 2011
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    Clackamas Oregon
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    There are tables here for the area and the approximate dry time for when the wood was put up. The first link I think is better. Your tax dollars at work. I think it takes far less time than we have been guessing at.
    http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr121.pdf
    http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2001/simps01c.pdf
    I had to wait until I got to work to look up the link. This pretty much says what said above. The cut time is dependent on when you cut and sticker it. It has also been said that if you are using KD lumber and putting it outside in the marine environments it is going to swell pretty much back to the air dry numbers anyway. I got a moisture meter at Harbor freight and think the weigh it would be just as accurate.
    “Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)

  16. #36
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    Tipton, TN, USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    I have a cypress mill near me, but I don't know the "lingo" that I should use. So how does the board foot measurement work?

    If it's .80 cents a board foot, how much does it work out to per medium 8 frame super? What should I ask for when I call them up? Is there an online place that will ship bulk for a reasonable price? i.e. how much would I need to buy to make it worth while for a semi to drop it off at my door. 1000 board feet?

    Thanks

  17. #37

    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    If a board is 1" thick by12" x12" that is 1 board foot if it was 2 " thick it would be 2 board feet
    they use a hook yard stick that is mark that tell you how many board feet that is in a piece
    david
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  18. #38
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    Nov 2011
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    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinR View Post
    i.e. how much would I need to buy to make it worth while for a semi to drop it off at my door. 1000 board feet?
    Well, 1000 board feet is a bundle approx 8ft x 4ft x 32 inches high. (actual bundle dimensions will vary, but those numbers calculate to 1000 bd ft) Unless you are planning on unloading board by board, or have a forklift available, you may need to modify your plan.

    Call the mill and talk to them. Its quite possible that that may have a smaller truck that can self unload. Or they may suggest a better way.

    You need to consider whether the wood is sold "dried" or whether you need to air-dry it before use.

    Personally, I'd call them, and set up a visit. Go see what they have, look at a sample, and see if it will meet your expectations.
    Graham
    -- The real problem is not precise language, it's clear language. - Richard Feynman

  19. #39
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    Feb 2012
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    West Bath, Maine, United States
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    Yes, so 1x8 is 2/3 of a bdf per linear foot. Your cost per box will vary slightly by the layout you do, which is dependent on board length.
    When you visit them, take some home and get to know it well before buying a 1,000 bdf.

  20. #40
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    Feb 2010
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    Park City Ky
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    Default Re: Cheaper Wood?

    KevinR.... I use cypress as stated above, and my experience has been, that normally it takes a 10 ft board to average getting a ten frame deep brood chamber.(sometimes you may get a box and a side or front, but on average just one box) I have mine sawed, 11 inch wide, 7/8 thick, any length. Then they compute the board feet. If you are making a 10 frame deep, and the cypress is .80 bdft, then the deep will cost (on average) about $6.00 not counting thansportation cost.For supers, you could have it sawed, 6 1/2inches wide. You should try to get it as knot free as he will sell it for .80 bdft.

    I notice you are from Tipton Tn, don't know how close that is to Cadiz Ky., but my last load from there had a lot that is nonusable for boxes. Can be used for rails of bottom boards, and rails around tops. I would not buy from them again. Too many boards have a knott on the side, or splits that extend 2-4 feet on the length of the board.

    cchoganjr

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