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Winter losses vs. Summer gains

180K views 644 replies 60 participants last post by  Oldtimer 
#1 ·
From time to time, there are complaints that there is too much bickering and arguing and people aren't getting to talk about what they want. Well, I can't do anything about that, people are people.

But what I can do and what I like to do is answer questions. So I want to give everybody the free and explicit opportunity to ask serious questions. If you want to be treatment-free, or if you are weighing your options, ask away. I want to help you. I'm not going to be answering challenges or defending my methods or viewpoint. I want to help you if you want to be helped. I want to tell you what you want to know, not what you want to hear. I had tons of questions and many of them will be the same ones you are asking now. You can even go back to 2003 and see them for yourself in the archives.

So ask away. You have my ear.
 
#139 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

...but getting one person's at a time can be a bit less overwhelming. By all means, get more opinions if that's what you want.

I'd recommend not going with packages, but if you do, hang the queen in the cage for a few days. I've also direct released her during installation.
 
#140 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

> What is the preferred method of introducing the queen? Just release her? Hang the cage in one of my frames?

The preferred method seems to be to hang the cage. In the case of foundationless, this results in messed up comb. If I tell you to direct release her and they abscond, you'll think releasing her was why, but in my experience, they will move next door if they don't like the queen, even if she is in a cage... I direct release.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespackages.htm#donthangqueencage
 
#141 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

When I started my hives last year I went treatment free and foundationless, mainly to save money:) but anyway I have a hive that overwintered in a double deep. I just did a spring inspection which was the first inspection in quite a while. My question is how would be the best way to fix a comb of honey that is built accross two outside frames? And also I was wondering if shb would winterkill, I found probably around 100 dead in the bottom of the hive but the hive seemed to be doing fine and I only saw one live beetle? I appreciate any help you can give on this.

Isaac
 
#142 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Isaac, you might want to cut out that frame of honey and let the bees start over, I don't know, I can't see it. If you want to keep it, cut it out and tie it in either with string or rubber bands.

SHBs will often overwinter in the cluster with the bees. I don't know exactly what temperature kills them, but I have also seen dead ones on the bottom board.
 
#144 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

If the beetles are not causing destruction, don't worry about them. All the bees really need to do to keep them from damaging the comb is prevent larvae. It's the larvae that are the problem, not the adults.

I regularly see beetles in my hives, but no larvae, and therefore no problem.
 
#145 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Solomon; Just installed my first 2 packages on Sat. . They are Minn hygenics from Ca.. My question: if both hives do well is it best to stay with the same type of queen in the future or switch to another type from a local beekeeper? Also is it really best to requeen yearly? I ask that because it seems if a queen is laying well and the hive is doing well you'd be messing with what's working. Thanks in advance for the help. Jeff
 
#146 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Jeff, I personally dislike requeening unless there is something wrong with the hive that needs fixed. I don't do any sort of preemptive requeening or scheduled requeening or anything like that. I requeen when hives are mean or unproductive. I absolutely do not believe requeening yearly is the best practice.

I personally don't consider it the same hive if it has been requeened other than naturally. There is no reason why the two should be considered related.

In my view, if you want to be successful at keeping bees treatment free, either get local bees or keep them long enough so they become locally adapted. Packages and queens from California or Alabama are not going to get you where you want to go.
 
#148 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Dear Solomon:
I just read that bees abscond more often from TBHs than from Langs. Have you found this to be true? I had never heard that before.

I'm installing two new packages this weekend, and it was suggested that I close the bees in the TBHs for 24 hours after the install to discourage absconding. I've never closed them in previously.

Your thoughts?

Sondra
 
#149 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

I have not experienced many absconding problems, and I do not yet have a TBH, so I cannot comment on that with authority.

If you install packages and don't immediately release the queen, the chances of absconding will be low. Shutting bees in is fraught with difficulties, dehydration, suffocation, and problems related to not being able to eliminate waste are among them. I'd say don't immediately release the queen, and that should be a good start.
 
#155 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

many reports of newly hived bees absconding from TBHs with open screen bottoms. As soon as there is comb and some brood, it seems to resolve.
I have hived packages and swarms without blocking the entrance in my TBHs without problem. I try to include some brood comb when I put them in the hive. When I first started I though they were absconding but it was hot and they were just bearding. They didn't have hardly any comb in the hive yet, so there was no place for them to hang out.

When I first started, I was using screened bottom boards and they all absconded. Now I use solid bottom boards and brood and I have had no problems at tall with my TBHs.

Ted
 
#153 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

I too get people I sell bees to, with top bar hives, telling me the bees absconded, often. So much so, that were at all possible I'll go there and do the install myself.

Very often, the problem is caused by overheating. The new bees do not have their ventilation system sorted out till after some days. Mean time, if the sun shines on the hive, it gets warm, the bees leave. Simple fix, put something such as cardboard over the lid, with an air gap underneath, to shield from the sun.

Do this, leave the queen in the cage for the bees to release slowly, and get all the bees in the hive properly, not hanging under the screen if there is one, and success will be close to 100%.

PS. Blocking bees in is totally disruptive to them and should be avoided where at all possible.
 
#157 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Thanks so much for all the advice, guys! This is the first hive I've purchased that had a screened bottom board, so it's good to learn that I need to keep it closed up, especially for the install.

This brand-new hive also has a white, metal roof. Since I'm in Texas, my hives are always positioned to get morning sun and either dappled or full shade in the afternoons. We get temps up to 105 on some days. Is there EVER a time when I want to vent the hive by removing the bottom board?

Thanks so much for all the advice.

Sondra
 
#162 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Since I'm in Texas, my hives are always positioned to get morning sun and either dappled or full shade in the afternoons. We get temps up to 105 on some days. Is there EVER a time when I want to vent the hive by removing the bottom board?
If all you have is 3 little round holes for an entrance, then when the hive is full of bees, and it's 105, one way or another they will need more ventilation than just the 3 holes. Quite a bit more probably.
 
#161 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Well, I appreciate that you're not arrogant. And the other people who have responded to my questions here have been really helpful. I was getting all wigged about my upcoming installs, but I feel I have really good info to work from now.

Thanks, everyone!

Sondra
 
#163 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

New Question for Solomon - A friend and I began beekeeping four years ago. We have yet to do a split and are going to try it this year. Were trying not to screw it up, so could you give me your best shot at how to do a split. I've read a lot on this site and other places and some of the information is conflicting. (Like that never happens in beekeeping :)) Anyway, if you can distill it all down to a basic process I'd like to hear your approach to doing a split. Thanks
 
#164 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Dear Solomon:
I asked about TBHs and absconding a few days ago. I took your advice and that of the other responders. The screened bottom board is closed off, and the queen has not yet been released.

I installed two new packages yesterday around noon. The queens are still in their cages, and I did not remove the cork and allow the bees access to the candy, even. Should I take out the corks today, or fully release the queens today, or give them a little more time in the hives before I do either?

Sondra
 
#165 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

Hello Solomon,
On your website you have a photo of syrup that is green colored and a statement that you dye it to make sure you only sell honey, never stored syrup. That makes sense to me. What do you use for dye? Food coloring such as used to add color to cake frosting?
Thanks.
 
#166 ·
Re: Ask Questions Here!

I used regular food coloring. I don't think it is the same thing as cake frosting coloring, the only kind of that stuff that I have seen is a gel. Not that it won't work the same, it's just not what I used. I used the little egg shaped bottle type of food coloring.

In any case, I have not used it in a couple years. I quit feeding sugar syrup and now only feed granulated sugar for the most part. Not saying it will never happen, it just hasn't happened lately. I have abandoned stimulative feeding. And there comes a point in the fall (though maybe not in Texas) where the bees will no longer take syrup. Granulated sugar can be fed beyond that point to supplement insufficient winter stores.
 
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