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What kind of syrup pump used on a truck mounted feeder tank

16K views 23 replies 15 participants last post by  ernieorcutt 
#1 ·
For those that use a truck mounted tank to feed their bees in the outyards, what kind and size pump are you using? Waht kind of pump are you using to transfer syrup from your holding tank to the truck mounted tank? Thanks.

Bill
Wisnewbee
 
#3 ·
Have a 1" honey pump with a 5 HP Honda motor. Takes about 30 seconds to gill a 1 gal feeder. 100 foot high quality hose on a old hose reel off a fire truck. Pimp is slowed down with two pulleys in the middle. You must have a pressure felief system to recirculate when nozzle is off. Nozzle is about 30 inches long so uvfont gave to bend over. 2 people can feed 500 a day. Or you can get short pipe and attach to tote and fill buckets.
 
#4 ·
I'm familiar with the feeder tank / pump / engine. I'm looking to build one. I already have the engine and tank. I was mainly looking for what brand and model pump people were using on their feeders. Thanks

Bill
Wisnewbee
 
#5 ·
this winter Im going to put a pump together. Right now I use a tote and a short pipe and fill pails on the ground. Works great but it requires alot of syrup carrying.
My neighbour has a 1" honey pump with a 5 Hp motor, and another neighbour has his hitched to an electric motor, battery run. Like suttonbeeman mentioned, they have relief valves.
I was considering a pressurized tank, but they do not work so well when the syrup gets cold.
 
#6 ·
We took a 150 gal propane tank and removed fill fitting and put in 2" ball valve. Hooked a hose to drain plug. I pump 100 gal sugar syrup into it with honey pump at home them pressurize to 60psi. Go to yards and feed with no motor running, nice and quite.

Johnny
 
#10 ·
I will see if I can take a picture with my phone when I get home. I hook my pump to a 275 tote with a quick disconnect so it can be easily moved off the truck or hooked to a second tote in a matter of minutes. I think the engine is a 7hp job. Does a fine job. Because its a gear pump I had to hook up a pressure relief valve. Which consequently is almost wide open all the time and I hate having syrup blowing back into my face as I am filling feeders. I think I can fill a feeder in < 1 minute. I have not tried to see how many hives I can feed in a day, but 2 of my part timers can feed 200 colonies in around 2.5 hours including drive time.
 
#12 ·
I use a 'trash' pump. with quick connect fittings so it can hook to a 3000 gallon tank or a tote in seconds. It was cheaper to set up than a separate gear pump/gas engine. I think the gear pump might be a more reliable set up in the long run (not sure), if one can find a good deal on a pump.

I too am interested in brands and sizes folks use to pump syrup.
 
#13 ·
Just got done filling frame feeders on a little over 400 hives in about 2 hours by myself. We use a gear pump and suck out of the top of totes.
 
#14 ·
3/4" Teel gear pump, driven with a 5HP motor, 2" pulley on motor & a 4" on the pump.
3/4" heavy duty hose with relief valve set at 40psi.
Tank hoses are clear ag-chem lines with reinforced nylon braid from a 200 gallon tote.
Fill valve is a 3/4" ball valve with a 4' 3/4" copper pipe.
20 plus years old and never let's ya down!
 
#15 ·
I have been using a Duro Max pump like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ils?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1352323154&seller=&sr=8-7 I got mine for $199 with free shipping 5 years ago. It is a Honda knock-off. Mine starts on the first pull or two every time. I ran a 'T' off the outflow line and use it to recirculate and mix dry sugar. I use a 300 gallon tank and can mix very fast. I use a 100 foot 3/4 inch hose on a reel with a gas pump nozzle (Gemplers) and can fill a 2 gallon feeder in 40 seconds. Quick connects between pump and tank and pump and hose reel make for quick set-up and break-down. My biggest problem: twice I have driven off without reeling in the hose - drove several miles. Hose survived, nozzle was toast. Buy a Craftsman rubber hose - lifetime warranty - and they will replace with no problem. Send me a private e-maill address and I will send a photo of my set-up.
 
#17 ·
Got rid of the "trash pump" set up this year, switched over to a gear pump wouldn't go back to the trash pump set up again blow to many seals when syrup is cold and stiff. Have a 2" line coming from the tank into the gear pump (Roper) then coming out is reduced down to 1 inch. Have a 4 way coming out of pump- 1 line goes back to the tank as a return line (eliminates the need for a relief valve i have found) 2nd line goes to the hose and 3rd has a valve attached for easy pump cleaning with water. All three lines coming out of the pump have valves on. 3rd valve is always shut unless cleaning, the other 2 are adjusted depending on thickness of syrup and pressure being forced on hose.
 
#20 ·
I was looking into this awhile back and a pump dealer indicated that a diaphragm pump might be best with really high solids content. Apparently they self prime and can run dry without harm. Koshin and Honda have 2" diaphragm pumps that may do the job but they are a couple grand each. Another observation is that the syrup I get from Mann Lakes is 77% solids. If my math is correct that is a 3:1 mix that can be reduced to 2:1 by adding water. Going from 3:1 to 2:1 makes a huge difference in viscosity. My 2" trash pump works well in cold weather with 2:1 but 3:1 pours out like pancake batter from a ladle.
 
#24 ·
I also have a 275 tote and when I buy syrup when the weather is cold I will put one or two heaters in the tote over night to heat the syrup. The syrup heater is powered by 120v ac and puts out 1000 watts. Like I said Manlake sells them for heating syrup in plastic tanks. I normally use one at a time but have used two if the weather is really cold.
 
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