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Thread: Bad Honey Gate

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    2,334

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    Olly,

    Please take Beesrme up on this as we don't want to run our honey through that nasty pipe.
    President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
    www.habitatforhoneybees.org

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Nowthen,Minnesota, USA
    Posts
    183

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    I should not have posted my original reply to this thread... In thinking about this some more, I more than likely wrecked my gate by running the bucket through the dishwasher. The heat could easily have warped any of the plastic components. And, in thinking about it some more, that was a real dumb-arsed move...
    -Phil Domeier
    www.nowthenhoney.com

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Issaquah,WA,USA
    Posts
    2,333

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    Use the " bee washer " next time.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Syracuse, NY (upstate)
    Posts
    247

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    I have about 2 dozen of the exact gates you show and am looking to buy more. They are the best I have found for the smaller producer (500 lbs or less). I put one on every 5-gallon bucket so its ready to use right out of the hot box. I don't mess with transferring to a bottling tank. I do have one of the dripless brass gates that cost $100+ that I would use on a 30-gallon bottling tank, but since I have 3 varietal honeys I would need 3 of those big tanks! 5-gal buckets are much more flexible since I only liquify 5-gallons at a time as needed. THE SECRET TO USING THESE GATES WITHOUT DRIPPING IS AS FOLLOWS:

    1) These are right hand gates, so you must use your right hand.
    2) Place your index finger behind the body of the gate where the head of the bolt sits.
    3) Place your thumb on the gate handle.
    4) SQUEEZE YOU FINGERS TOGETHER as you open the gate, fill the jar and close the gate. Do not stop squeezing your fingers together while the gate is open.

    It's the same technique as using scissors that don't cut. If you squeeze the two halves together it works!
    The reason for the dripping is that by not squeezing the opposing faces together honey remains on the inner face of the gate. Then when you close the gate, the top of the gate body (part attached to the tank) scrapes some of the honey off and that runs down and around, dripping from below. I bottle thousands of jars this way and rarely need to wipe off the gate.

    -ekrouse

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,800

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    >It's the same technique as using scissors that don't cut. If you squeeze the two halves together it works!

    If I have spent good money and freight on a purchase I prefer to get one that does not require Mickey Mouse to operate it, when other brands work correctly.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Jackson, MO
    Posts
    1,858

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    I have these on every bucket I use to bottle from...no problems. I apply gentle pressure against the seal when I open the gate, pushing backward toward the bucket. Keeping this pressure prevents the leaks that cause drippings.

    If I had one complaint, it is with the screws. The corroad from being washed so I grease them with Crisco.

    Grant
    Jackson, MO
    Beekeeping With Twenty-five Hives: https://www.createspace.com/4152725

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Syracuse, NY (upstate)
    Posts
    247

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    Grant... you can always get stainless steel bolts (expensive) or use food grade mineral grease like what's used on extractor bearings.

    Odfrank... I understand your point of view, but I don't want to spend the extra $28 per gate (assuming the $30 gate works any better). That would run me an extra $280 for every 10 buckets of honey. Also, most of the other gates stick out way too far to mount on every bucket. Of course if you have a full-size bottling tank, then what you really want is the solid Stainless Steel, self closing, no-drip valve from Dadant. Current price is $132. Here's the link:

    http://www.dadant.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=833

    -ekrouse

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,800

    Default Re: Bad Honey Gate

    Quote Originally Posted by ekrouse View Post
    Of course if you have a full-size bottling tank, then what you really want is the solid Stainless Steel, self closing, no-drip valve from Dadant. Current price is $132. Here's the link:http://www.dadant.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=833-ekrouse
    That type of valve is described for warm honey, which I don't got. Plus the 1970's vintage tanks that I use have the cast guillotine valves permanently attached, and they work OK.

    I was just complaining about that particular brand of plastic valve, which others seem to like.

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