MannLake 18/9 extractor

**Moon** · 10-14-2012, 05:00 PM

I just purchased this extractor from MannLake: http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeepin...es/page98.html and as it turns out it doesn't fit 9 deep frames like advertised, it easily fits 12. I ran it last night and was pretty happy with the performance however the motor gets hot after about 30 minutes of use. To be expected I suppose, and perhaps it's heating up due to overloading. I think I'll keep running it that way until I burn up the motor and then replace it with a higher horse power motor. Anyone else used this extractor or have any input on it?

**Rader Sidetrack** · 10-14-2012, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by Moon

I think I'll keep running it that way until I burn up the motor and then replace it with a higher horse power motor.

You might want to select and price a suitable higher HP replacement motor before you get too far down your chosen path. The current motor is 90 volts, geared down to 320 RPM, and it looks like the 90 degree output is part of the gearing also. Finding a suitable match with higher horsepower might be more difficult than you think. If you replace the motor with something different, you may also have to replace the speed control mechanism.

**Moon** · 10-14-2012, 06:34 PM

Originally Posted by Rader Sidetrack

. Finding a suitable match with higher horsepower might be more difficult than you think. If you replace the motor with something different, you may also have to replace the speed control mechanism.

It might be for some but it would be relatively easy and or cheap for me to do it. I use to work in a motor shop that was fully outfitted with a weld shop (where I worked), machine shop, and motor rewind shop for electric motors. If worse came to worse I think a 12 pack of beer would get the motor re-wound for me. A case would probably get me new gearing, a new output shaft, and then whatever the cost of a higher horse motor would be.

**Rader Sidetrack** · 10-14-2012, 08:03 PM

Hmmm, well you have resources that aren't available to most people.

But it appears from the Mann Lake page you linked that the same extractor is available as a manual version for $600 less than the motorized one you bought. Considering your resources, why didn't you buy the $600 version, and add your own motor? Even with a hundred dollars worth of beer, the savings would be substantial.

**Charlie B** · 10-14-2012, 10:38 PM

Is the motor getting unusually hot or typical given the load it's spinning?

**Moon** · 10-15-2012, 09:00 AM

Originally Posted by Rader Sidetrack

Hmmm, well you have resources that aren't available to most people.

But it appears from the Mann Lake page you linked that the same extractor is available as a manual version for $600 less than the motorized one you bought. Considering your resources, why didn't you buy the $600 version, and add your own motor? Even with a hundred dollars worth of beer, the savings would be substantial.

Time mostly. Beer jobs aren't exactly a priority over re-winding a 6500 HP MG set for a power plant. It's not as though the world would stop turning when I walked in the shop and my piddily little job would move to the head of the line. The season was over here about two weeks ago and I'm still going out today to pull honey. Looking at the weather report it's probably the last day that will be warm enough here that I'll be able to get out and do it so I'm cutting it pretty close as it is, I would hate to be waiting around on a specialty build that I'm not even going to see until the end of January. =P

**Moon** · 10-15-2012, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by Charlie B

Is the motor getting unusually hot or typical given the load it's spinning?

I'm not 100% Charlie. It's running at I would say is almost too hot but I had the extractor loaded up at the recommended settings last night for a couple of runs and it was just as hot if not hotter then when I overloaded it so perhaps the motor it self just generally runs hot. My hands are pretty calloused and heat resistant so it didn't burn me when I held my hand on the motor; however, if my wife were to have grabbed the motor like I had she probably would have sustained burns.

**LeonardS** · 10-15-2012, 10:55 AM

I bought the 18/9 this Fall, but only extracted one load. I would say the motor was warm, but not hot. I extracted for a total of about 21 minutes. 7 minutes at 25%, 7 minutes at 60% and 7 minutes at 90%.

**BeeTech** · 10-15-2012, 12:53 PM

Electric motors, at least higher power ones, tend to run much hotter than people expect. 150F at full power is not unusual. Some even run close to 90C. You could look up the motors specs if it has a model number or other identifying plate on it and calculate the expected temperature given the input voltage and current to determine if you are within specs for load, temp, etc, but, I wouldn't replace it unluess it burns up.

**Charlie B** · 10-15-2012, 01:05 PM

On the Mann Lake page it says "New higher output motor". I wonder if the original motor wasn't doing the job? Higher output may mean more heat.

**Moon** · 10-15-2012, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by BeeTech

... You could look up the motors specs if it has a model number or other identifying plate on it and calculate the expected temperature given the input voltage and current to determine if you are within specs for load, temp, etc, but, I wouldn't replace it unluess it burns up.

That's an excellent idea. Next time I get some free time I'll see if I can track down the information via a model or serial number like you're suggesting. I wasn't planning on replacing it prior to it burning up, matter of fact that was my plan; run it till it pukes and replace it with something with a bit more horse. Thanks for the suggestion BeeTech

**cdevier** · 10-26-2012, 03:28 PM

Be sure to check your line voltage. Being a retired electrician, I have found a lot of homes and barns with 110 volts + or - . This would make the motor pull a lot more amps - therefore more heat.
If the source is up around 120 volts, great... therefore less amps, less heat and less dollars (since you are billed for amps, not voltage).
Make sure the cord is large enough for the load (20 amps ?? ) and no longer than necassary. If the motor is more than maybe 50 feet from the electric panel, you might have to up size eveything.
Charlie

**Rader Sidetrack** · 10-26-2012, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by cdevier

If the source is up around 120 volts, great... therefore less amps, less heat and less dollars (since you are billed for amps, not voltage).

Hmmm, I agree with your comments about 120 volts being more desirable for running a motor than a lower voltage (like 105 volts, say). But power company meters measure, and you are billed for kilowatt hours. A watt is voltage * amps (possibly adjusted by a power factor). So while a higher voltage in a given motor means less amps, and less heat, it isn't going to change your electricity bill as the watt usage is still the same.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electricity_meter