How to remove wax with moth from the wooden frame?

[rand]

Hi all,

The Wax moth beat me again.
I'm freezing the combs before storing them and wrap them with Nylon
but something don't work for the second time and the Wax moth
destroyed something like 100 frames

Now i want to remove the infected wax from the combs and clean the wooden frame.

Is there any good and quick way to do it?

Thanks,
Randi

[AmericasBeekeeper]

I can think of 4 options.
1. get a plastic bin large enough to dunk the frames in and wash it off, only loose damaged comb and webs will float off, put a little bleach in
2. cut or tear out damaged sections with your hands
3. cut out all the comb
4. burn the whole frame

[jrbbees]

Do the BT thing and that will end the moth problem.

[alblancher]

Just curious, when you stored the frames did you store them with parachlorobenzene moth crystals? I learned the hard way that the frames have to be dry before going into storage. Not sure if people on the forum recommend using this chemical to treat moth problems?

[rand]

I don't use parachlorobenzene moth crystals because i do not want to
contaminate the wax with chemicals. I use the freezing method for
more time then writen in the articles. this should kill the moth, larve and eggs
and avoid contamination.

thanks for the tip about the drying the combs
Is anybody use freezing method with good result?
Thanks

[alblancher]

I froze my frames and the beetles have not returned but I have not placed them in storage. I would think you would need the moth crystals to prevent them being reinfested while in storage. Seel them too tightly and I would think you would have the mold problem, leave a crack for ventilation and the adult beetles get back in? I was also told to leave the frames in an ant nest for a couple of weeks after freezing. The ants will remove any dead beetles/bees and clean out any remaining honey.

Sorry I can't give solid advice but I am trying to get a handle on this problem also!

Al

[BeeGhost]

Is anybody use freezing method with good result?
Thanks

Ive had great luck with freezing the combs before storing. After I pull the super from the chest freezer I stack them all in such a way that air and light can flow through them............so far so good and we have had temps of 100 degrees lately. I have kept checking them each week since September and havnt had any problems!! However, my experimental unfrozen frame placed out in the open in my garage didnt have such great results.............not over run with wax moth larvae, but still a couple drilling through the combs. Froze the frame and put it back out in the open and it hasnt "hatched" any more wax moth!

The minute wax moths start tearing up my drawn comb I will put a cabosh on the freezing method and post the travisty on here!!

[rand]

Finally, i found the right formula to treat the build combs from Wax Moth with the freezing method.

I freezed the combs in -7 Celius degrees for 36hours and then store them in suppers tower
that covered with nylon from up to bottom - the Wax moth came back and ruin me something like 100 combs. My conclusion is that freezing didnt kill the Wax eggs.

I freezed the combs for 72 hours and then wraped hermeticlly each super with nylon bag and also covers all the supers tower with another nylon that is not hermetic cover.
No Wax Moth is alive and the combs are clean!!
I attaching two pics for better understanding...

Chau,
Randi, Israelwax_moth1.jpgwax_moth2.jpg

[captaintat2]

Do the BT thing and that will end the moth problem.

Uhhh....Newbee here, what is 'BT"?

[whiskers]

Bacillus thuringiensis
It's a bacteria that infects the gut of caterpillars. Look in the for sale section here to buy it.
Bill

[rand]

Hi,
Does the bacteria affect the Wax Moth eggs and contaminate the combs?
Thanks, Randi

[beesinwv]

I have had the same problem and did the following and cured it.

I take a large metal wash pan and set it up on blocks or stones and fill it with water. I then build a fire under it. When it starts to boil I put 3-4 frames in. The boiling water melts the old comb, kills the moths and eggs and sterilizes the frames. Since I started using this method I have not had a problem with the frames or moths. I realize that everyone can't build a fire where they live, but it is an option for those that can.

[Michael Bush]

>Now i want to remove the infected wax from the combs and clean the wooden frame.

It's not infected. Just scrape off the cocoons, cut out anything that's badly webbed.

[UTvolshype]

>Now i want to remove the infected wax from the combs and clean the wooden frame.

It's not infected. Just scrape off the cocoons, cut out anything that's badly webbed.

High heat in a storage area will also stop development, I extract my honey in early July and from then through August I don't have wax moth problems since the storage area is directly under a hot tin roof in a garage. But as soon as cooler weather hits it's time for the para moth crystals till cold weather so I only use the crystals for three months.

[whiskers]

About BT-
It doesn't affect the eggs since it must be eaten to work. As soon as the egg hatches the caterpillar will begin to eat and the spores of BT will infect it, the caterpillar will become ill, stop eating, and soon die.

It does claim a pretty good residual effect so one would have to assume that it has in some sense contaminated the wax. The counter to that is that I have never heard a claim that it is harmful to anything but caterpillars.

Google co2 wax moth to find info on storage in a carbon dioxide atmosphere. Another possible strategy if BT spore contamination is a deal breaker for you.

Shalom (op is from Israel)
Bill