Question on ventilation holes drilled in deep boxes?

[Bees4Us]

Reading thru some of my books, I have a couple of questions about the ventilation for winter. The latest book I am reading says its a good idea to drill cork sized holes in both deep brood boxes, right below the handles. How many of you do that?? I already have the mouse guards on and I want to make sure ventilation isn't a problem.

Should I do this in combination with the Popsicle sticks under the inner cover?? How much time do I have before I need to do this? Temps are crazy here. They are real active today, and I noticed they are still bringing in pollen as well!

I am ready to hear 400 opinions :-)

[westernbeekeeper]

I drill holes, but not for ventilation. I'm sure it helps a little, but I do it so that there is an upper entrance during winter especially, when there may be snow blocking the lower slot-type entrance. What do you mean by "temps are crazy"? We just got our first hard frost here in Wyoming, so I will be wrapping and placing candy and insulation boards within the next couple weeks. I have not had ventilation problems yet, except my first winter, I got a very small bit of mildew on the bottom of the inner cover, and I think that may have been due to the hive being perfectly level, instead on being tilted forward slightly so that the condensation runs forward and out the front of the hive. But that problem is fixed now, I haven't had any further problems. It does get a bit cool here in the middle of winter, 20- or 30- below zero in not uncommon (except this last winter; it was rather mild).

[mgolden]

It does provide an exhaust port for moisture in winter. In cold weather my 3/4 round hole will build up with frost created by exhausting moisture.

It also will serve as an inlet for air if the bottom entrance gets blocked by snow or dead bees. In cold temps, undertakers can not remove dead bees.

Don't think the snow is a big concern in Virginia but there is likley enough flying days so dead bees blocking the bottom entrance is not an issue.

If moisture inside the hive is a problem, then more ventialtion within reason is a good thing.

[pure honey producer]

Reading thru some of my books, I have a couple of questions about the ventilation for winter. The latest book I am reading says its a good idea to drill cork sized holes in both deep brood boxes, right below the handles. How many of you do that?? I already have the mouse guards on and I want to make sure ventilation isn't a problem.

Should I do this in combination with the Popsicle sticks under the inner cover?? How much time do I have before I need to do this? Temps are crazy here. They are real active today, and I noticed they are still bringing in pollen as well!

I am ready to hear 400 opinions :-)

Keep in mind that this is another not well guarded night time entry point for SHB.

[Riskybizz]

If I were you I would think about it before I decided to drill 3/4" holes in my brood boxes. There are plenty of other ways to vent off excess moisture in the winter if thats what your worried about. Those holes are always a pain when you have to move your hives, and they make great entrances for robber bees that will clean out a weaker hive in a hurry. If it were such a great idea don't you think that manufacturers would drill the holes in the boxes for you.

[julysun]

http://beeinformed.org/2012/08/winte...vey-2010-2011/

Top ventilation is the only winter prep in this survey that had significant good effect on winter survival of hives. I think the holes should be at the very top of the hive. Just my 2 cents....

Thanks to Soloman Parker for the lead on this info.

[Tom B]

My winter hive configuration is three boxes, usually 1 deep and two mediums. During the summer, I have holes drilled in all three of these. In winter, I close off the holes in the bottom 2 and just leave the hole in the top box open. I think this provides an outlet for moisture and gives the bees a place to exit when temps allow.

[Vance G]

I will risk SHB entering my hives this winter. How cold do they fly? Bee keeping is local. I drill a 7/8" hole right below the handhold in the upper box. I all but close off the bottom entrance with a cut piece leaving about a one bee hole. The wrapping covers it to to stop any wind. The upper hole is basically the only pneumonia hole and I cut a hole thru the wrap and staple a vee of cardboard over it to block direct wind and light. I put a feed rim on top with a piece of sound board protecting a piece of styrofoam from bees chewing which they sure love to do to styrofoam. the wrapping goes up and over the styrofoam. On a day with little wind, I can easily pop my lid and check feed availability and insert sugar bricks or fondant and when the time comes pollen patties. I can't pull frames with this arrangement, but I don't want to. the sound board or biltrite absorbs and wicks off the extra moisture. The bees cluster and hang on the fiber board as soon as the cluster reaches the top. I have pictures!

[mgolden]

Does the feed rim go directly above top brood super? Food is placed on top of the frames??????? Any problems with bridge comb?

I used a feed rim above my inner cover last winter. Have a 3/4 vent hole at the front as well. My thinking was that I could open the hive, even on days below 50F and check and feed and not affect the brood chamber temps much.

I have a 3 1/2 inch round hole in the center of my inner cover. If sugar blocks were placed around the hole, the cluster would move up through the hole and work on the sugar blocks.

Am debating feed rim above or below inner cover.

[Vance G]

I do not use inner covers. If the bees start building comb in opens space in feeder rim, they don't need fed. Occaisionally they build up off topbars on feed but the rims aren't on if their is a flow. Just not a problem for me so far.

[mulesii]

I have 3/4" holes drilled in the front of my top hive body and all of my honey supers, just below the handholds. When I want to close them, a wine cork fits perfectly.