Ventilated bait hive

**Jamesfarms** · 09-20-2012, 05:27 PM

I am building a few bait hives. I notice that no one mentions any holes for ventilation only covered by screening material. It would seem that it could get real hot in a bait hive with only a 2 inch entry hole. Any comments?

**Cleo C. Hogan Jr** · 09-20-2012, 05:47 PM

I have never needed them. Perhaps in a warmer climate you might. I don't think Bentonville would be significantly warmer than Ky.

Don't know if you have them, or could buy them at an auction, but, I like old used equipment, and many believe is better than new boxes. I don't use new boxes so I cannot compare.

I put lemongrass oil in them, if you plan to use it, buy it now and have it ready.

cchoganjr

**odfrank** · 09-20-2012, 05:51 PM

I have tried vent holes on the back and above the entrance. The bees often propolize them shut. I often place them in afternoon shade. Nucs do cook in heat waves and should be placed accordingly.

**jimsteelejr** · 09-24-2012, 04:35 PM

Do bait hives usually work? We have left empty used hives in the bee yard, with or without some drawn frames and had several swarms occur but never had one move into an empty hive. Am I missing something?

**Detroit Bees** · 09-24-2012, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by jimsteelejr

Do bait hives usually work? We have left empty used hives in the bee yard, with or without some drawn frames and had several swarms occur but never had one move into an empty hive. Am I missing something?

This is a great question I would like answered too...I am pretty sure my hive swarmed this spring but I had no idea it ever happened until it was too late. Can I set up a new hive a short distance away for an insurance policy?

**Paul McCarty** · 09-25-2012, 04:15 PM

My swarm trap/bait hive has a screened bottom. Mostly because it is an old 10 frame deep that used to be a bee transport cage and I just screened it off. I am guessing you are talking about an actual bait box though.

**jimsteelejr** · 09-25-2012, 07:56 PM

I still want to know--do bait hives really work?Who has had success and what did you do.Some one on another post talked about lemon grass. A bee inspector from a couple of years ago was tasked with checking around the port of tampa for Africanized bees. He used what looked like paper Mache flower pots attached to trees or posts. He said something about using a pheremone.Whats the trick to getting a swarm to come to you?

**Jamesfarms** · 09-26-2012, 07:04 AM

Lemongrass is the key. There is an ebook out there that is all about bait hives. A lot of sources suggest a bait hive within 600 feet of the apiary. It is not a guarantee, but it is an insurance policy. I intend to keep bait hive in the apiary itself. Have not tried it yet though. I have plenty of room so am going to set up 4 around the farm.

**Cleo C. Hogan Jr** · 09-26-2012, 07:39 AM

Jamesfarms.....Mention oddfrank in your post. Ask him about bait hives. He catches about 50+ each year. Lemongrass oil is an aid, but, so is having a drawn brood comb in the bait hive, and location, location, location.

For me, the best bait hives are old, worn out, deep supers that have wax and propolis residue in them. Three or four drops lemongrass oil. Then a couple of frames of foundation. The foundation will discourage the bees from dropping comb from the inner cover if you don't find them shortly after they move in. I caught 9 this year, but, my bees rarely swarm, (I sell bees, the hives are mostly one chamber brood hives, so they don't build up enough to swarm), and there are not a lot of feral bees in my area, and no other bee keepers.

Bait hives is one of the management tools to manage your hives if you are producing honey and have bees in multiple chambers. Even with great management, some of you hives will swarm, and the swarm box gives you a chance of catching them if you don't see the swarm when it leaves the hive, or find it nearbly. Don't throw old equipment away, use it to attract swarms.

cchoganjr