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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Ojai, California
    Posts
    905

    Default Re: Glue for Hive and Frames

    Hey, beekeepers agreeing? What went wrong here? LOL

    Use excellent joinery technique so that you don't need glue, then use Titebond III anyways. Make sure you have enough bar clamps, and you can wrap them with Saran Wrap to keep the glue off them. 2" staples are better than nails or screws, but you need an air stapler. Don't staple your Oucheewahwah! Put it over newspaper on top of an old piece of plywood when gluing, keep a pail of water for the paintbrush used for gluing, and a wet sponge for glue cleanup. Don't glue out in the sun. Get a girfriend or boyfriend to put on a swimsuit and help. Best of luck!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas, USA
    Posts
    460

    Default Re: Glue for Hive and Frames

    Titebond III is what I use. Gorilla I don't buy anymore, it works, but turns into a brick in the sealed bottle in a couple of weeks.
    Mike
    N5RWH - 9a

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
    Posts
    2,473

    Default Re: Glue for Hive and Frames

    Titebond III. You can dry assemble box joints with no problem, but the glue should seal the joint and make it last much longer. Any other joint, you really need the glue for strength, expecially butt joints.

    Polyurethane is stronger, but ONLY if you nail up immediately or use clamps. It is not gap filling other than foam, and does not have good strength in gaps in the joints, although they are watertight. If you don't clamp properly, the joints can slip, resulting in open joints and/or mis-alignment. Not a problem on box joints, but the stuff is very messy.

    Peter

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Ojai, California
    Posts
    905

    Default Re: Glue for Hive and Frames

    I think I'll invest in Titebond III stock and then publish this thread!

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