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Wax Moth Control?

24K views 33 replies 19 participants last post by  metropest 
#1 ·
I have a minimal infestation of wax moths here in Vermont. I mean minimal, caught it just as it was getting started. Not used to them this far North in any great numbers but we have had very warm summer. All my outdoor hives (6) are very healthy and active but in two of them the moths managed to get eggs planted in a small space between the top cover and the inner cover and on the top bars of the upper most super or HB. I have taken all the larvae out that I could find (2-3 in each) and screened the upper ventilation so the moths cannot get in the top. There are a LOT of bees in each of these colonies and wall to wall brood. I did this a month ago and have not seen any larvae or signs of WM's since.

I then discovered that the only 2 deeps I have stored in my basement have WM worms in the combs that likely came in with the hive body (HB) when I emptied that colony and moved the HB's inside. I cut them all out individually (5-10) and am rechecking the stored foundation weekly. Found just one more last night.

I have done a lot of reading and there is a wide variety of opinions about prevention and cure. Prevention outdoors in the active hives is closing the top ventilation to prevent the moths from entering by screening upper entrance holes. On the top covers I glued popsicle sticks on the under side where it contacts the inner cover. this creates ventilation all the way around that adds up significantly but is not wide enough for moths to enter. Indoors I am watching and waiting in case more larvae hatch out, so far (one week) only one more I missed. There is no obvious way for the moths to enter the house. I have not had any wax moths in the past.

My questions are. How does what I did so far sound as a protocol?
And, what is your opinion is the best way to store the HB's in the basement with drawn comb in them to prevent infestation?
And, does it make sense to purchase some Bt to spray on the infected frames if I find more WM larvae? I have read that I need to use bacillus thruringiensis aizawai which I have not been able to find. I have only found Bt kurstaki (Thuricide).
Will that work or do I need to find Bt Aizawai? If so, does anyone know where I can get it?
One more: Is it safe to assume that the wax moths outdoors are gone for the year once the first frost or certain consistent temperature occurs?
Thanks for you help.:scratch:
 
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#2 ·
Starting from the bottom up, I would say it is not safe to assume that the moths are gone once the first frost hits. They need more exposure to the cold for them to be gone. I had a tough year this past fall and winter because it didn't get cold enough in my barn to kill them off and I lost some comb. Colder is better and the longer it's cold, them better. I use BT Aizawai and I can vouch for that. Not sure about the other and yes, I'd spray them on the infected frames and any unaffected brood comb that you have. That will slow and eventually stop the larvae. I typically spray my comb before storage. Last year, I brought in a couple of boxes from a dead out and didn't spray which is how my infestation started. You may consider spraying before storing in the basement. Outside, I'd let a strong hive take care of the moths. I've never had a moth problem in a strong hive. Once it gets weak, I'll combine the colony, bring the boxes and frames inside, spray and store. I'm not sure that it's necessary to worry about the ventilation so much. I use screened bottom boards so the moths can enter in a variety of locations.
 
#4 ·
I wish I could say that wax moth larvae haven't been a problem for very strong hives. I've found wax moth larvae in nearly all hives, where a few of them adversely affect small areas of sealed brood, either trapping young bees in their cells, preventing them from emerging, with wax moth larvae webs spun around them. And even in some very strong hives, they've done much worse.

Other forms of Bt can be toxic to bees, especially honey bee brood, so be careful.

Moths do not need to enter hives to lay their eggs where the larvae will cause problems. The larvae are very tiny, when young, and will go to where the food is, to eat.
 
#5 ·
Thanks to all of you for your input. Immensely valuable. Joseph, especially hearing yours really helps confirm what I was intuiting. The wax moth lays her eggs somewhere where the the LARVAE can get it. The moth itself does not have to get in the hive itself. My bees were controlling the wax moths except in the very top tiny spaces between the inner cover and the top bars. Even there only a few got in.
So I am looking for Bt Aizawai for the infected frames.
The only thing I am hearing different advice on is storage of unused frames. I understand that ventilation is important, but I am not sure why.
My thought is to use some screened covers top and bottom on stacks of hive bodies.
Also I know they do not like light, but does that mean I need to go put a trouble light at the top or bottom of the stack for a day? once a week once a month?
Any help appreciated.
JJAllen
Vermont
 
#6 ·
PDB (Para Moth) will kill anything but some people fear it. You can stack supers from the floor to ceiling and put a 7 ounce packet of PDB crystals on a paper plate on top of the top super with a cover and you will never have a wax moth problem. I put the bottom on a piece of foam and tape any apparent voids due to older equipment.

In Vermont this works great for supers that arent on the hives in warmer weather. Once it gets below freezing you don't need to do anything.
 
#7 ·
Hi Keth,

What are your thoughts about Para Moth? From what I have read it is best to avoid using it if possible due to its toxicity.
I do not fear it, but anything this toxic I try to avoid. If I had a larger operation I would probably use it, but I only have 40+ hive bodies.
My plan is below on the next reply.
 
#8 ·
My present plan is to move all my hive bodies to a screened porch where they can get light and ventilation but not robbers nor critters and hopefully the bears will not be drawn enough to go through the screen. If I end up having to use PDB then it will ventilate outside.
Once the cold nights set in I will move them downstairs.
 
#19 ·
#1 Bt is for honey and brood frames its approved under the naturally grown standard. Don't know if its approved for organic standards.
#2 We spray the frames when they are going to be stored off the hive, then store them indoors with the top & bottom open for ventilation.
#3 depends on how bad they are. Judgment call.
 
#20 ·
If you have freezer space, freeze them for 36-40 hours the spores will then be dead. I then store them stacked on top of each other and then every 5th box I put a couple teaspoons of moth crystals (blue can from walmart) on a piece of wood or news paper. at the top I put on a telescoping lid and thats it. I have never had a wax moth doing this. If its going to be awhile I sit the super or brood box on its side so light shines thru it.
I've never brought them in the house so I cant tell you how they do in the basement..
 
#22 · (Edited)
Hello All ~ I returned home after my out-of-state work stint to find one hive/colony completely consumed with wax moth. The bees were gone, but moths, larvae, webbing, feces and destroyed comb were everywhere! Total hive destruction. So, what do I do at this point? I plan to pressure wash all boxes and frames, dry, freeze, then store til spring. Any suggestions?
My other hive, 10 feet away, is untouched. As a newbie to this hobby, I have never experienced this issue before. I need advice on safe guarding my remaining hive, treating this menace, and any thoughts that may help in the future. Thanks!
 
#24 ·
Zeo and Hoover67, you do realize that you can read all the posts in this thread, from the beginning, right? And that there are many other threads that discuss this very same issue. Some are also mentioned earlier in this thread.

My favorite thread on this subject, is here.
 
#26 ·
I am sorry. Yes I have read the previous comments. My question is: What do I do to the frames and hive bodies that have already been infested? There is no wax now. Do I just scrape the frames and hives and then store them? Do I need the crystals now that there is no wax. Should I do anything like scrub them with something?

I picked up from reading the previous posts what to do to prevent future problems.

Michele
 
#25 ·
Like Joseph said above.:thumbsup: The way i keep wax moth in check, is keep hives strong,don't give them more room(supers) than they can protect. When using BT make sure after you spray them, that they are completely dry(the comb) before you store them.If you want to see how fast wax moth can start to take over, let your honey supers (that you just robbed) set for three days before you extract them. Not a pretty sight.:eek:
 
#27 ·
Michele, if i may. I would check the frames for weakness ( they can sometimes ruin them). You can just scrape them and let the bees clean them up later. I like to scrape them the best i can and then mix a cap of bleach in a gal. of water, and put it in a spray bottle and spray the frames and inside the hive body. Then let them dry good before you store them.
 
#29 ·
The aftermath of destroyed combs, by wax moth larvae, can be managed in many different ways. The most common two ways, in my experience are:
1) Cut and scrape the beeswax from the frames, scrape off the mess from plastic foundation, insert new beeswax foundation (if you use it). Give back to the bees, as appropriate.
2) Give the wax moth spoiled combs/frames, back to strong colonies, especially during a strong flow, they can and do clean the mess and repair the combs.
 
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