Is there any reason I can't inspect the TBH in stages? With removing comb attached to the side, and cutting cross comb, and getting testy because of the humidity, I'd like to take a break as I go thru the hive. I'm sure the bees would appreciate it also.
I'm thinking when I come to a stopping point, cover the opening with a piece of plywood and come back after a cool drink.
It works for me. My bees act their worst as I'm cutting attachments on the honeycombs at the back of the hive.
If they start getting irritated, I just walk off for a couple of minutes, or enough time to pull my veil and have a smoke.
When I come back they've calmed down some and hopefully it's not long before I get into the brood nest.
As soon as I get into the brood nest, they mellow out like it's no big deal.
Steve- are there any cases where you can lift a bar straight up? For each bar I have to check for wall attachment, check for adjacent comb attachment, shift the bar about an inch away from the entrance, then I can lift. I have a ten bar nuc I have been using as a hive stand; that gives me a comfortable amount of space to shift bars. I think I'll buy some "floor canvas" (which I think is really drop cloth) to cover the gap left by the ten bars I moved to the nuc. Lot of robbing over the last two weeks, so I need a quick way to close up the hive;I think that canvas might do the trick. Do you make any attempt to remove the wax remaining after an attachment is undone? - mike
No Mike. I have to create a descent gap at the back to get started. Then I have to go through
all the honey to get to the brood that's mostly at the front of the hive.
I haven't had any problems with robbing while I'm in the hives yet.
After I detach a comb, and get the comb out of the way, I'll scrape what's left on the wall of the hive.
I use the Heck out of follower boards, so there's no gap at the back of the hive if I pull bars/combs
out of the hive. I've found no quick way to close up my hives. If I move a bar the bees get up on
the edge of it and are prone to get squished, even if I close the bars up as I pull them.
They still get in the way and require the use of a bee-down strip moving in both directions,
opening or closing.
One thing that we have noticed is that the number of openings between the boards should be kept at a minimum. Treat empty bars the same way that you do full ones, and as you work through the hive, close up those gaps no matter how small. There seems to be a definite correlation between the number of openings and the overall defensive reaction of the hive. (And it rather makes intuitive sense ... "If we see a lot of light up there, the hive must be under attack!") As the gaps are closed, the defensiveness begins to subside.
Also, do not cast a shadow especially across the entrance to the hive. Don't stand directly in front of it: if they smack into it during their comings and goings, they're probably going to attack it. ("Heck, I would!") Our hives are positioned at various outward angles, leaving a large work-area in the middle. All under nice, deep shade trees.
One thing that we have noticed is that the number of openings between the boards should be kept at a minimum. Treat empty bars the same way that you do full ones, and as you work through the hive, close up those gaps no matter how small. There seems to be a definite correlation between the number of openings and the overall defensive reaction of the hive. (And it rather makes intuitive sense ... "If we see a lot of light up there, the hive must be under attack!") As the gaps are closed, the defensiveness begins to subside.
Which sounds like a good enough reason to drape something over the bars I've already examined, moved to the end, but haven't bothered to close the gap between them - Mike
That's what I'm doing with a couple of nucs that I have. Bars with combs, follower, one empty bar.
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