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Thread: Cutting Layout

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Aurora, CO, USA
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    7

    Default Cutting Layout

    I tried to post this earlier but I don't see it anywhere, sorry if this is a double post.

    I was given some rough cut boards 1" X 12" X 12' and want to build some Langstroth boxes. Does anyone have some instructions for using 12 foot boards to get the maximum boxes with minimum waste? I'm thinking of one board with X ends and Y sides and the other with a different combination to get the best use out of the wood.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lake county, Indiana 46408-4109
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    3,536

    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    Welcome to beesource

    http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...-barry-birkey/

    Barrys drawings are for 3/4 boards but all you need to do is keep the inside demsions correct with rabbit joints you can get a box from a 6ft board
    Ed, KA9CTT profanity is IGNORANCE made audible
    you can`t fix stupid not even with duct tape

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Evansville, IN
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    2,465

    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    Using box joints and 3/4" lumber the best way to cut 12' boards is seven sides or seven ends and one side from a board.

    This assumes that the ends are not split, you don't have to dodge any serious knots (you want them in the middle of the board, not the ends), and that you plane down to 3/4", and that you can accurately cut the boards (radial arm saw -- table saw is going to be a pain and unless you are much better than I, hand sawn will require squaring up).

    You may need to drop back to six longs and one short if the lumber is flat enough to leave it thicker (and you then need to make the box joints deeper while maintaining the inside dimensions).

    I would plane down at least one side (the inside) to get the joints accurate, although you don't need to cut all the way down to 3/4 except to get rid of cupping.

    You will also need to joint one edge down to completely square -- it is important that the cuts for length are dead square both ways.....

    Peter

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Aurora, CO, USA
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    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    Ed, Peter Thanks for the replies. Sure wish I had a plane but the wood looks pretty flat. I'll have to wing it. So, I guess I'll just have to measure everything from the inside out and go for the best.

    Thanks

    de KI0OT, Brad

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Alabaster, Alabama, USA
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    204

    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    If they are still "green" you should factor some shrinkage into your plans as the boards cure.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Aurora, CO, USA
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    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    shrinkage - didn't think of that. How do I tell how green they are and how much shrinkage should I expect?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Default Re: Cutting Layout

    Wood shrinks along the grain much more than across it, and except in a few cases, not at all lengthwise.

    Easiest way to tell is to check the moisture content with a meter, but I'm guessing you don't have one in your pocket. Check to see how old the wood is and how it's been stored -- it it was cut this year, likely you need to stack it with spacer sticks for a year, but if it was stacked properly and air dried for a year or so, you are fine.

    If it's all quite flat, I'd guess myself it's not dry. Wood almost never stays flat (unless perfectly quarter sawn, which is rare and expensive), and I would expect some cupping and warping in dried lumber.

    You can use it green, but you will have to be careful. It will shrink up to 10% in width, and since it shrinks more along the grain than across, the boards will cup AWAY from the center of the log. Look at the growth rings -- you can tell which way was toward the center by the growth rings. Put the outsides toward the other board on the corners of the box, that way they will cup toward the top and bottom so you don't get a crack opening up.

    Peter

    Peter

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