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  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    San Francisco, CA
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    2,365

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    If you're in a high wind area, the wood version wood be a better choice although mine have been very steady when it gets windy.
    President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
    www.habitatforhoneybees.org

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
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    9,482

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    My concern is not high wind but cyclic wind where the hives rock back and forth creating a bending moment at the tee fitting. Because of the sharp vee groove of the thread form on the end of the pipe the metal tends to crack and slowly propagate all the way through. Maybe it will happen or maybe it never will. But it would be something I would worry about. If the pipe was 3" in diameter I would have no concern but 1 in or even 1 1/2 I think is light.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Manassas, Virginia, USA
    Posts
    964

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    I saw what I'm guessing is Charlie's stand on YouTube. I was not enamored of the T arrangement either, but overall liked the idea a lot. I'm in the process of setting one up. I've got four posts as well, but arranged to support four corners using U-shaped pipe assemblies (4 posts, 2 18" cross-pieces, 4 elbows). About the same amount of pipe but it should be sturdier from the bending standpoint.

    My plastic cups are slightly different, made from 4" to 2" reducers and 2" to 1" bushings. The bushings need to be hogged out a little with a half-round rasp to fit the iron pipe. I split the plastic fittings so they can be put on the iron pipe and held on with hose clamps. That way the cups can be removed for cleaning and re-greasing.

    GreaseCup002Web.jpg

    GreaseCup003Web.jpg

  4. #124
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
    Posts
    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Phoebee View Post
    I saw what I'm guessing is Charlie's stand on YouTube. I was not enamored of the T arrangement either, but overall liked the idea a lot. I'm in the process of setting one up. I've got four posts as well, but arranged to support four corners using U-shaped pipe assemblies (4 posts, 2 18" cross-pieces, 4 elbows). About the same amount of pipe but it should be sturdier from the bending standpoint.

    My plastic cups are slightly different, made from 4" to 2" reducers and 2" to 1" bushings. The bushings need to be hogged out a little with a half-round rasp to fit the iron pipe. I split the plastic fittings so they can be put on the iron pipe and held on with hose clamps. That way the cups can be removed for cleaning and re-greasing.

    GreaseCup002Web.jpg

    GreaseCup003Web.jpg
    I like it, but let me ask you... Why the pipe thread sealer?

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Manassas, Virginia, USA
    Posts
    964

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Do you recall the SNL bit with the ... um ... retentive carpenter?

    I have a pipe birdfeeder designed to discourage bears. It has suffered a lot of damage over the years, had pipe replaced with heavier, been extended, had pieces bent by falling limbs, etc. Consequently some of the joints have needed to come apart from time to time. The latest was last week to install a squirrel baffle. So I'm in the habit of using Teflon tape on threaded joints for this sort of tinkertoy project so the joints don't rust solid.

    Not that it will help with these shapes imbedded in the ground. But maybe in 30 years I'll need to replace the legs.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Morris County, NJ, USA
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    I was told by an old timer to put ant traps between the inner & outer cover...again new..no experience. Has anyone tried this?

  7. #127
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
    Posts
    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    What about poison (dust style) near the hive? Bad idea I guess huh?

    Haven't done it, but ants are taking up residence around my hives!

  8. #128
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
    Posts
    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Question about this stand design.

    What do you think it would do in my region? I'm in south Louisiana... It's always moist down here. Driving a pipe 2' in wouldn't be too hard.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    2,365

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Gilligan,

    You can sink the pipes into concrete the same as you would a fence post or you can build the wood version.
    President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
    www.habitatforhoneybees.org

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
    Posts
    9,482

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilligan View Post
    Driving a pipe 2' in wouldn't be too hard.
    If it is easy then it wouldn't be stable.

    The grease trap is made from PVC so why not keep it all PVC? You can make up 4 legs out of 3 in PVC put an end cap on one end that goes in the ground and a floor flange on the other. Screw the floor flange to a 2x6 between two legs. The grease trap can be made from a 3 to 4 reducer. Carve out the 3 in end so it will pass through the 3 in pipe. Your stringers can be 4x4 or 2x6.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  11. #131
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
    Posts
    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    I guess one reason I liked the pipe in the dirt method so much was that I could do the least amount of dirt prep work to get it level and do it while hives existed right along side of where I worked.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    2,365

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Acebird View Post
    If it is easy then it wouldn't be stable.

    The grease trap is made from PVC so why not keep it all PVC? You can make up 4 legs out of 3 in PVC put an end cap on one end that goes in the ground and a floor flange on the other. Screw the floor flange to a 2x6 between two legs. The grease trap can be made from a 3 to 4 reducer. Carve out the 3 in end so it will pass through the 3 in pipe. Your stringers can be 4x4 or 2x6.
    There are probably a 100 ways to accomplish the same goal using an upside down grease trap.
    President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
    www.habitatforhoneybees.org

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
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    9,482

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilligan View Post
    I guess one reason I liked the pipe in the dirt method so much was that I could do the least amount of dirt prep work to get it level and do it while hives existed right along side of where I worked.
    You can still do that but use the next size floor flange and pin it to the pipe at ground level or slightly below.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  14. #134
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
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    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Acebird View Post
    You can still do that but use the next size floor flange and pin it to the pipe at ground level or slightly below.
    Like a collar with a set screw?

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
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    9,482

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Yeah, the collar will keep the pipe from sinking in the ground if it is up tight to the floor flange.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  16. #136
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Lafayette, LA - USA
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    299

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    What sort of flange are we talking about, I thought those were threaded.

  17. #137
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
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    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    They are so you have to get the next size up so it will just slip over the pipe then use a set screw collar to adjust the height or you could drill and tap the flange to lock it to the shaft if you have a tap.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  18. #138
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,115

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Quote Originally Posted by Acebird View Post
    They are so you have to get the next size up so it will just slip over the pipe then use a set screw collar to adjust the height or you could drill and tap the flange to lock it to the shaft if you have a tap.
    ????

    Floor flanges and pipe are threaded to NPT specifications. Unlike machine screw threads, NPT threads are tapered so the only location that it is possible to thread with NPT threads is at the END of the pipe or fitting.



    By the time you find a practical solution for these issues, the $3-$4 bag of concrete suggested by Charlie B above will look like a cheap solution!


    Last edited by Rader Sidetrack; 04-11-2014 at 08:09 AM.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  19. #139
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Utica, NY
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    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Gilligan if Rader has confused you with his bits of wisdom or lack of, PM me I will get you through the simple process.
    Brian Cardinal
    Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping

  20. #140
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,115

    Default Re: My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

    Steel floor flanges, whether you attempt to "pin" them or not, are expensive.

    If you use 1 1/2" pipe, flanges are about $13 each and even flanges for 1/2" pipe are nearly $10 each:
    http://www.lowes.com/Search=floor+fl...=floor+flange#!

    Even when you are done horsing around with getting a flange installed, the area of the dirt that the flange covers is clearly inferior to a bag of concrete!

    If your pipe is at risk of sinking into the ground, why pay more money to buy a flange when a $3-$4 bag of concrete is a better solution?



    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

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