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My Ant Proof Hive Stand Actually Works!

201K views 394 replies 69 participants last post by  soarwitheagles 
#1 ·
After losing two nucs to ants I came up with a solution for those darn Argentine ants that raid hives here in California. I made "T's" with 1" galvanized pipe. At the bottom of the T joint, I slipped on 2" white PVC end caps after drilling holes in them. I hung them upside down on the pipe and filled them with high temp bearing grease that doesn't run in the heat. The rain won't be a factor because they're upside down under hives.

I pounded the pipe legs into the ground 2 feet deep. I secured the 2x6 PT frame to the T joints with plumbing strap. The cross members are resting on the T joints to better handle hive weight. NO MORE ANT PROBLEMS! (Sorry about the finger in the first pic)
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#59 ·
Charlie - We have the same problem here in Angels Camp - Is the grease what prevents the ants from moving upward? Did you just sink the pipes into the ground or are the anchored by cement or something....I'm concerned about pivoting and the nature of the soil; in this area, is red clay with rocks everywhere - We are running 8 frame supers -
 
#60 ·
Holiday,

I pounded mine two feet in but the soil is very stable with no rocks. It's better to anchor them in concrete though. If you have a rocky surface, you'll have a hard time pounding the pipe in straight so it's better to just dig holes and concrete in.

Yes, the grease is what keeps the ants from climbing up into the hives.
 
#63 ·
Charlie,
I checked my stand last week and found all the grease had slid out of the cups and it was laying on the ground. It wasn't the exact brand you had used. So I got some MasterPro grease from O'Rielly's Auto and repacked them. Hopefully the new grease will stay put..

Sam
 
#68 ·
That's a fine looking hive stand. You'll be ant free with that. Just check the grease every couple of months to clear any debris stuck on it so they can't use it as a bridge. Only takes a couple of minutes.
 
#69 ·
Brilliant Charlie! So I'm going to tap you for suggestions for my persistent red ants (yes they must be mine since they have taken so many of my hives!!). I already have VERY sturdy stands cemented into the ground so your solution wouldnt work without me excavating,,, very costly!! Any suggestions? Something is forming in my head but not taking shape just yet.
 
#70 ·
A simpler solution for the same problem that a fellow beekeeper has come up with are some hive feet bases that you fill with some kind of oil so that the ants can't go through them. Sort of like building a pit around a castle. He uses 4 per hive stand on each of the feet. Here's a quick 3d sketchup of it:

http://imgur.com/D1qDZON

(the left is the bottom and the right is the top that fits reversed on the bottom)

He had them built in stainless steal, they're about 10x10cm, so should be a pretty sturdy base. I know that two other important bits of the construction are:

- When it's assembled the gap between top and bottom is small enough that a bee can't get through, in case they're atracted by the oil for some reason
- The top (on the right here) is built with a wider part at the end so that when you set it over the bottom it can't slide around.

I can do a more precise 3d model if you want.
 
#73 ·
Thanks this is creative! The problem is *unless I dont get it fully) I cant get the foot of my stands in these bases as they are already firmly cemeted in the ground. Like I have promised Charlie I will send a picture. Maybe I can find one
 
#75 ·
BeeDeane,

Get some tuna or soup cans. Using tin snips, cut through half the can leaving an "L" cut at the bottom of the can in the shape of your stand legs. Open it up slightly like a claim shell and fit it through each leg of your stand near the top. Make sure the can is upside down. Close the can up using flex ties or large hose rings wrapped around it tight.

If there is a gap fill in with weather proof caulking or roof patch. Fill in with High Temp Bearing Grease just enough to cover the interior of the can. You don't have to fill in the entire can as it will cause it to be to heavy and may slip down the leg of the stand.

It may take several attempts to make the right cuts on the cans so eat plenty of tuna and have plenty of cans available!
 
#77 ·
Plastic would work as well. Instead of glue, you could try outdoor construction adhesive.

I suggested using metal cans because you could tighten them up snug where the cut of the can and the legs come together with a big hose or plumbing clamp.
 
#79 ·
Another variation on the theme (a GREAT idea!)...
I tried to do this for even less money...

Using a single length of 1" galvanized conduit EMT ($7) cut into 10" sections, a pressure treated 4x4 ($9) cut into 10" sections, and four NDS 4 in. PVC DWV Drain Caps ($2 ea.)
I made these legs for my hive stand and sat them on four pieces of flat stone I already had.
A 1-1/8" spade bit is the correct size for the holes in the 4x4, but you have to "router" it around a little to get the pipe to drive into the wood







 
#80 ·
This seems really good, although I'm not as handy with tools as you clearly are, I will refer it to a more tool oriented friend. Thanks for the contribution. Oh just out of curiousity, arent your boxes a bit low (toads etc.)??
 
#85 ·
Charlie - A few months ago you responded to a systam you built for ant-proofing hives - I failed to copy the building plans - Could you e them to me,
lcrtb101@gmail.com - Also, when you bought the pipe did you cut some of the pieces to fit your schematic and if so; how did you re-thread the ends -
Did you get your materials at something like Home Depot or did you go to a plumbing specialist - Thanks, Chris Henderson 209 736-9914
 
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