what size hose do most use, 2 1/2" ? is the shop vac type hose with ribs ok ? has any one made a bucket type vac container with a screen container to catch the bees ?
what size hose do most use, 2 1/2" ? is the shop vac type hose with ribs ok ? has any one made a bucket type vac container with a screen container to catch the bees ?
You will get a lot of opinions on this. I made mine it is a bucket type like the one they sell at brushy. I used the rigid bucket vac from home depot. You have to remove the cage and the ball and trim the cup around the intake that the ball is sucked into. I built my cage from screen for a bottom board conversion. It is a lot cleaner look than the brushy. Smooth hose is better but not a necessity. I worked on vacuums and installed central vacs for about 12 years. I will try to upload some picts if I can figure out how and get the time, I have a 2 year old and a 6 month old need I say more. I am great with wires and mechanics just never realy got into the tech thing.
All beekeepers can agree on one thing, and that one thing is, that all beekeepers can't agree on one thing.
This one from our buddy Rick on this forum works like a charm. Over 30 vacs with hardly any dead bees. All the queens made it as well and are doing fine.
https://plus.google.com/photos/11186...225?banner=pwa
President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
www.habitatforhoneybees.org
I used a piece of pool hose for the intake. While it's corrugated on the outside, it's smoother on the inside than shop vac hose.
http://honeysunapiary.wordpress.com/tech-tools/bee-vac/
Last edited by SteveBee; 05-07-2012 at 06:40 PM.
I just built a bee vac and used for my first cut out. I used the same principle as the plans shown on this site but mine goes on your back. My way of thinking was if the bees were to be injured it would be when they were crashing through the hose. With it on my back I was able to make the hose shorter, only 6'. It is sch40 1" flexible hose (it's smooth inside and out). I Initially thought about a bucket but I'm pretty happy with what I made. I put a port on the bottom that you hook to any shop vac. I built a couple of cages so I could swap it out when it got full of bees. The cages have a removable bottom so they're easy to dump in the hive. Their held in the vac with a plexi glass cover so you can see to adjust the vacuum. Here's a few pictures...
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hey, i built one based on the bushkill design. put 20 ft. 1" clear tubing on it, sucked up a swarm and had 4 dead bees and a good queen when thru.
I picked up a bushkill vac from Robo. Its one of my best investments!
To find out more about me go to
www.broomsbylittlejohn.com
Here's a page I started building on my vac that I designed. It's something like the bushkill in that it can be used as a temp. hive, but I personally think mine's a little gentler on the bees as they are stopping against a loose screen in mine, as opposed to solid wood or plastic. I use a 1.5" "water transfer" hose from TSC on this one, it's smooth inside & out, and comes 20' long; I've done 2 vac-outs where I found no more dead bees in the vac upon release (36hrs later) than with a "control" swarm that I hived in the vac box without sucking them up, then re-hived after the same (36hrs) duration of captivity. A word of caution: I did a third vac-out and suffered 95% losses due to my failing to give them anything to eat while they were captive for about 18hrs....PLEASE don't be as dum as I was that time, bees need food, regardless of where they are; if you don't give them back some of their comb with stored honey, DO NOT neglect the syrup sprayer (big oops)!
Last edited by honeyman46408; 05-23-2012 at 06:27 AM.
Got to use my bushkill bee vac for the first time today. What a sweet design! Worked like a charm.
Used it one this:
When I got home and transfered everything over to a hive, I found about 8 bees dead, and for all I know they could have been injured or dead when I moved the hose end into the cluster against the wood. Very easy to use and very gentle on the bees. Score: 10
Regards, Barry
Nice work Barry! Looks like you put a good paint job on the vac too.
To find out more about me go to
www.broomsbylittlejohn.com
Great job Barry, I should paint mine. It works great but is heavy. 2x6 cause it was free! I may break down and coughup the money for proper material and build another. I had fun doing it.
I built mine very similar to what Barry has, the bushkill. I used an old Kelly’s plastic bottom board with some modifications. The hose that sucks the bees up is a 1 1/2 inch pool vac hose. Works great.
Last edited by Cox89XJ; 05-20-2012 at 06:53 PM.
Checked the cutout first time today. Found some day old eggs and then . . .
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Regards, Barry
She's a beaut!
President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
www.habitatforhoneybees.org
What Charlie said...she's a nice'un!!!!!
Ed
Warning: Rookie beek...take my postings with that grain of salt you keep in your pocket.
John 3:16-17
I found a nice sized plastic box and was just planning on using with a shop vac. Cut three strategic holes, screen the end, and be done. It's big enough to hold a pretty big cut-out.
What's the concept of using the box in a box design? I'm not seeing much of an advantage.
Thanks!
I think the main advantage sought with the box-in-box design is airflow decelerization in the inner box by having HUGE sections of screen on the sides of it, thus allowing all of the air to leave it, without needing any high flow speed. This would allow the bees a "softer landing" upon entering the vac box.
The advantages to a design like the bushkill vac, or one like mine, are that you don't have as much solar heating of your bees if you're doing an outdoors cut-out on a warm day, the brood from a cut-out can be spliced into frames, then immediately "given back" to the bees in your vac, and the vac itself can function as a temporary hive (admittedly, with the bushkill vac serving as a slightly more "permanent" hive than my own). Both of these vacs have one-direction airflow (as opposed to the often split-direction airflow in the box-in-box designs), but decelerate the air through the sheer volume and cross-sectional area of the box.
The bucket-vac beevacs' main advantage is in cost & ease of construction. I've seen many different bucket-vac designs, with some of them accomplishing deceleration better than others, and with variously good, or bad, "kill rates." Unfortunately, like box-in-box designs, no bucket-vac I've seen can function as any form of hive, nor can they accommodate brood comb. That said, they can be very inexpensive and easy to build, light, and easy to keep a "reload" empty bucket available for really huge cut-outs.
I'm sure there is plenty that I missed in that brief summation, but I hope it "touched all the bases" and proves informative for those of you who are trying to decide which type of vac will be best for you![]()
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjA04sbZoxg Kurt, here is the explanation.
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