8 frame or 10

[beecrazy101]

Just wanting to see how many of us use 8 frame hives or 10. If u use one over another why and what advantages or disadvantages does one have over another

[bison]

I use all 10 frame, but that's just a coincidence of how I got started. Most people seem to start with 8 frame stuff. As far as I know, the only real difference is weight and the relative difficulty of hefting a full 10 frame honey super versus an 8 frame. I don't think the bees care at all.

[BMAC]

To Bee or not to Bee is the question.

[MrHappy]

I went with 10 frame since its more common. I can get stuff off Craigslist and eBay for pretty cheap and most seems to be 10 frame. I also thought that I wouldn't have to look at it as much since there are 2 extra frames for them to fill out before I have to add more boxes to them. I also don't care about the extra weight as I take the frames out one at a time, put them into a box on my dolly, and wheel it to the extractor. That's my thinking.

[n1rcv]

I currently have 3 hives that are 10 frame ( 2 double deep and 1 with 4 mediums) and 2 hives that are 8 frame mediums. I plan on adding more 8 frame medium hives and used my 10 frame stuff as double nucs.

I got talked in to buying a 10 frame deep hive by an old beekeeper I bought my first nuc from. I won the second 10 frame deep hive in a raffle.

Have a good day.

William

[Charlie B]

I have rooftop hives on a 1930 4 story building with no elevator so 8 frame mediums are a no brainer. I started out with 10 frame and cut all mine down. After doing so, I was much more pleased with the versatility of 8 frame boxes.

You don't have to make nuc boxes as you can use 8 frames with two follower boards to make up 6 frame medium nucs. This comes in real handy when you combine nucs to regular hives.

I'm also constantly moving hives from one yard to another and I can fit more hives in my rig and on hive stands.

Also, I've found that my bees do better in 8 frames. I think it mimics more the size of a tree for my area and swarms are more attracted to them as well.

[sammyjay]

I use ten frame deeps. I have to get someone else to lift them, but it's a lot cheaper.


Nathan

[avesterfelt]

I have been using both 8 frame and 10 frame to see which the bees and I prefer (along with some TBH and a few experiments that I have). I prefer the 8 frame and will be building all of my future equipment 8 frame (unless one of my experiments pans out really well and changes my mind).

I noticed the bees tend to draw out all 8 frames without me having to move them around like the 10 frame, when using foundation. However since I have gone to foundationless, they may draw them all the way out in the 10 frames, I have not given them a chance at this. My 8 frame hives seem to out perform the 10 frames probably because they have 2 less frames to fill. I have noticed less problems with moisture and pests in the 8 frames and attribute that to having less space for them to control. I don’t use chemicals in any of my hives so buying used equipment is not something that I will ever do.

I am still young (30’s) so the weight is not an issue; however the 8 frames stack up high pretty fast. I have one hive that is already got 2 deep, 2 med and will need another med this coming week if the frost did not kill the flow.

[Charlie B]

My 8 frame hives seem to out perform the 10 frames probably because they have 2 less frames to fill. I have noticed less problems with moisture and pests in the 8 frames and attribute that to having less space for them to control. I don’t use chemicals in any of my hives so buying used equipment is not something that I will ever do.

I'm experiencing the same. As far as the Craigslist comment about 10 frame equipment being more available, I would never buy used equipment from anyone I don't know, especially from Craigslist.

[beecrazy101]

I am going with eight frame also. Was looking for easier ventilation, smaller area to have to inspect, new equipment for sure never know online what u r getting in old equipment. I would hate to loose my colony over AFB or EFB disease. I liked the ideas of a little less weight and a smaller area to have to take up.

[odfrank]

I'm experiencing the same. As far as the Craigslist comment about 10 frame equipment being more available, I would never buy used equipment from anyone I don't know, especially from Craigslist.

i throw out the combs unless they are pristine and scorch the woodenware with a torch. One can easily be overly paranoid and overly careful. The bait swarms you catch could more likely be bringing in disease than some used boxes.

>I would never buy used equipment from anyone I don't know, especially from Craigslist.

Hey, I sell lots of stuff on Craigslist, now my feelings are really hurt.

[cheryl anne]

[QUOTE=avesterfelt;78123.

. However since I have gone to foundationless, they may draw them all the way out in the 10 frames, I have not given them a chance at this. I have one hive that is already got 2 deep, 2 med and will need another med this coming week if the frost did not kill the flow.[/QUOTE]

i just bought a new 8 frame hive with 4 med boxes, i also bought foundationless frames. i have not put any bees in yet , this is my 2nd yr beekeeping and i am a bit nervous about doing this. i was told to paint some melted wax on the top to guide the bees. i have a deep box hive also 8 frame that i put out last yr, it has already swarmed this yr but still full of bees and queen cells, how could i use those queen cells to start another hive. i cannot interchange the frames from the deeps though, could i shake some bees in there. my deep boxes are full of honey and pollen and brood, my old queen is gone. last checked the hive 5 days ago i have left it alone since hoping a queen cell will hatch and they will be ok. i do have super on with wax foundation but they will not draw it out, i have sprayed it with sugar water as well not sure what else to do but i don't want another swarm. any advise is appreciated
cheryl anne

[avesterfelt]

If the hive is queenless, I would not do anything with it yet. It will take time for the new queen to start laying and new bees to be ready to help out and forage. You could chance killing your hive completely by splitting it now. If you want more bees; buy a package, catch a swarm, or wait till next year and take a split. Of course this all really depends on what your current hive looks like. If the hive has 15 frames of capped brood and bees covering all those frames, then you could split the hive without problem. I assume it is not that strong since they are not drawing on the super.

Since you have the super on your hive already I would just wait for them to get some drawn out. Keep in mind they will not draw it out unless they need the storage space.
Also it takes time to get foundationless working for you; sometimes they will draw it perfect in the frames without drawn comb to guide them, sometimes not. It can be fixed fairly easy but you need to fix it early and don’t assume they will correct it, they wont. Once they draw out 2 frames, start sticking the foundationless in between and watch how fast the build that out (I was shocked when I first did it).

I use a piece of medium foundation for my strips; I just take a medium sheet of foundation and cut 1” strips out of it. Then take the wedge off the frame and squeeze the strip in there, a couple of staples, and done.

I am no expert, I just jumped in head first when I started and experimented right off the bat, plus I have been around bees for some time. You have to do what you are comfortable with or it will just be a disappointment and too many people get out because they have unrealistic goals. You will loose hives when you experiment; you will also learn a lot through failure.

Hope I answered the question without too much babbling on.

[cheryl anne]

thanks a lot it does help. i do have frames with wax foundation for the med boxes. but i also bought the foundationless from with the "v" shape for the bees to build comb. i will probably wait until next yr to start this one unless the hive i have starts to get overcrowded. if i understood you correctly i should put 2 frames with foundation and an empty foundationless frame in between so they will build correctly.
cheryl anne

[Konrad]

8 frames hasn't worked out good for me, went back to 10 frames.

Reason,..bee space on 8 frames too eregular, then you end up comb build up on frames not regular.

[Slow Modem]

I started out last year with two 10-frame deeps. After picking picking up a 10-frame box, I decided this year do a split into an 8-frame deep. I'm betting that I end up with all 8-frame mediums before it's over with.

[Michael Bush]

It is kind of too bad the standard sizes seem to be just a little off on space. The 13 3/4" are a little big for eight and the 14" are just too tight for the 9 frames that will fit. But they still work better in my experience than the ten frame. They fill them better and make better use of them and they winter better. But often a fat comb makes eight work well. A follower also makes them work well, and with narrow frames (1 1/4") nine works nicely.

[Kevin245]

We run 8-Frame woodenware. When it was just a copule of hives it was no big deal, but now it is a big deal. I spent 4 hours checking newly established hives last Thursday and was ever so grateful.

[BPApiaries]

Michael Bush has a great breakdown of the pros and cons on his website that really helped me make my decision.

It really all comes down to weight versus price. It is cheaper to buy less boxes for the same number of frames and ten frame equipment is more common than eight frame which is why I chose to go with ten frame mediums myself.

[Charlie B]

Reason,..bee space on 8 frames too eregular, then you end up comb build up on frames not regular.

What?