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Advantech nuc cover test

13K views 38 replies 22 participants last post by  beepro 
#1 ·
After reading others tout the virtues of this material for numerous uses I decided to give it a try.

I have nucs that I made from some 3/4" band sawed pine. The boxes glued and stapled together nice and square but the lids warped a bit since I didn't fully dry the wood (only two and a half months stickered in the garage). The resulting gaps causes water to leak into the nuc.

Our local lumber yard has tons of this Advantech material in various thicknesses. 1/2", 3/4", 7/8", 1" and 1 1/8". Lumber guy said it is what almost every contractor uses for subflooring since we get so much rain before they can get a roof on. It has a waxy feel to it, cuts like a dream. I bought one sheet of 3/4" for $24.98 and made replacement lids for all of my nucs. Just because I had it laying around and like the look of a white top on my green nucs I threw a coat of exterior latex stain on them. They fit the nucs snug as can be and are perfectly flat and true. Once I get a case of mason jars I will drill a hole for a hive top feeder in each.

I also put some scrap pieces outside to see how they take the weather without any stain at all. Since it has a "50 year warranty" I doubt I see will see much in the way of degradation in the next year or two.

I liked working with this material so much I am going to build some top covers for my normal hives next! Pics to follow...
 
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#2 ·
I think it's better than real wood for top covers - it stays flat, and it's heavy enough to not blow off even without a brick on top. I have some unpainted supers made out of it when I was in a bind for time and equipment, and although ugly as home made sin they are still like new structurally. Prepare from some push back though in the form of "I've never tried that therefore it won't work.";)
 
#3 ·
Since it has a "50 year warranty" I doubt I see will see much in the way of degradation in the next year or two.
I think your test of this product is a great idea. But don't be mislead by the warranty.
AdvanTech panels are designated as Exposure 1 under U.S. Department of Commerce voluntary product standard PS 2-04 section 4.1.1.2. and therefore are not warranted for exterior uses.

Complete warranty: http://huberwood.com/media/documents/pdf/ADVANTECH/AdvanTechFlooringSheathingWarranty309.pdf
Huber expects their product to be inside a roofed structure for the "50 years" of the warranty.
 
#7 ·
OSB looks like Advantech, but it isn't. It will swell at he edges and warp easily when wet.
Advantech has a different glue and a waxy substance applied during manufacture that makes it very water resistant.

I messaged Keith through his Youtube account and he replied that his samples are still out in the weather and holding up very well...so wel that he is using it for some more bee equipment.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I built some migratory covers out of the composite wood chips LP
boards. This is their 4th seasons just a bit faded because I did not repaint or
waterproof them again. No wrap and keeps on going. The LP board is much like
the advantech just a bit cheaper but with the same purpose as roofing material.
 
#22 ·
I built a few deeps with it. Considerable difference in weight but I didn't weigh them. Probably not a good choice for a migratory pollinator. Just fine for a brood box that rarely moves. I find the wood cuts well enough for rabbet joints but doubt it will cut clean dadoes for box joints or handholds.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I've looked at this considering the wood I can get here. This is at 20% moisture content for the pine which will vary greatly. The difference at the box level should only be a couple of pounds. I'm planning on Advantech for covers, but I ultimately bought boxes...

4' x 8' x 3/4" is 2 cu. ft. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/weigt-wood-d_821.html lists Pine, Northern White at 25 lb per cu. ft. and Pine, Southern Yellow at 36 lb per. So that is 50 to 72 lbs.

http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/products/advantech-flooring
lists 78 lbs for 4'x8'x23/32"

http://parr.com/PDFs/PG_plywoodthickness.pdf
lists 60.8 lbs for the same. I'm sure there is variance by type and manufacturer.
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the link "Tex". Did a little more browsing on their site and noticed that they list an Advantech sheathing panels in 1/2", 5/8" and 23/32" available in SE (standard or straight edge perhaps?) as opposed to t&g which wouldn't seem to be ideal for hive use.
http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/products/advantech-sheathing
Personally, I would love the thicker dimensions but all our lids and bottoms are 1/2" and deviation from that is going to create issues with uniformity in loading. Anyone have experience with 1/2"? According to their specs going up to 5/8" significantly increases the strength.
 
#26 ·
Availability seems to be my problem. The 3/4" flooring is stocked at a lumber yard (local??, 30+ minute drive), but everything else is special order. The big box stores claim they have it in searches, but then try to sell low grade stuff. This is one of the reasons I decided to only use it for covers. I'll pick up a sheet or two when I'm near a location.

I thought about making boxes with 1/2" stock like the Coates NUC plans, but was concerned about durability. Also, there were other discussions I read about box density and temperature control. The final straw was a change at work that appears to limit my ability to use the shop. :(
 
#27 ·
I made deep hives and migratory covers out of 1/2" LP composite particles board.
The advantech board is heavier than the LP boards. There are other thickness of the
LP boards too just like the advantech. The price is a big difference.


Deep hive of LP board:
 

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#30 ·
Thanks!

The painted migratory cover made with the same LP materials lasted for 3 years already.
I did not repaint it for the last 2 years. It is still as good. The secret is in cutting the board with
an angle grinder. But be very careful when handling one. Use the appropriate saw for your safety to
do the job right. I only use the angle grinder when building the migratory covers. The regular deep hive
boxes I will use a wood saw. After finished and painted, the hive is not much heavier than a regular deep cypress hive.
Of course, if you use the thicker LP board then the hive box is heavier when done. There is a member here who
built a bee trailer house entirely out of these composite particle boards. But I'm not sure if it is the advantech or the LP boards.
So if he can use it for the hive boxes inside the trailer then it is good enough for me in a mild winter area.
I do stock my overwinter nucs with lots of big fat nurse bees to keep them warm all winter long. Because I have good results in
using them I will continue to build more this coming Spring.
 
#32 ·
Thanks!
But be very careful when handling one. Use the appropriate saw for your safety to
do the job right.
Hey, didn't I gave out advance warning already!
Not for everyone you know. Even the pros will not go for it-- Too danger they say.
Their fingers are too precious. And they have seen it all. Probably lost one already.
Don't worry, my head and fingers are still intact. At least for now. :)
"For your safety!"

Don't you ever use an angle grinder:
 

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