For the brood chambers, stick a two frame feeder in a 10 frame box and you've your 8 frame box with a feeder when you need it. Keeps your equipment standard, allows you to go back to 10 frame should you so desire & solves the weight issue (the feeder is always empty when you're lifting the box).
For the supers, once your foundation is drawn just space 8 frames in the box ........
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don’t have film.
I had two 10 frame hives worth of equipment from my wife's grandfather. although there was no history of disease, I cleaned and baked and bleached for sterilization. I had decided to use 8 frame due to weight. Rather than cut or sell, I used the 10 frame equipment last year for bees. This year I moved the frames to 8 frame equipment and I am using the 10 frame boxes for swarm catchers. If I am so fortunate as to catch swarms too heavy to easily lift to bring home, I'll say some praises and get some help. I also like the suggestion of using feeders with tops closed to "fill up" 2 spaces, turning the equipment almost into 8 frames of contents.
Thanks for all the feedback. It has been helpful.
I thought over the idea of just putting a feeder in or whatever, but I want 8 frame gear. And I can only assume I'll acquire more over time, so I figured it would be best to just bite the bullet and alter what I have.
So I followed Whisker's idea of cutting them in half, and incorporated Ace's idea of doweling the joints. I used 3, 3/8" dowels in each joint, and then added a nice oak cleat as a handle to help secure the new joint. Seems to be pretty tight, and once I repaint, it will all look pretty seamless. It is some work, but I'm glad to be doing it.
I have cut down 11 deeps, and have finished reassembling 4 of them. I still have 9 mediums to deal with.
Feeders with tops closed, like I'm seeing on Mann Lake "pro feeder with cap and ladder". What about hive beetles, are these a hiding place for them?