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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    I'm mounting my WTK metal disks by drillling a 1/8" hole where I want the disk mounted. Then I start a 1" 8x32 screw from the inside of the box. It's difficult but it can be done and screw it home from the inside. Then I push the disk on the end of the screw from the outside of the box. The hole on the disk is tight for an 8x32 screw but it works. After that I start an 8X32 wing nut on the screw and tighten it forcing the disk all the way to the wood. To adjust the entrance just loosen the wing nut 1/2 a turn and turn the disk then retighten the wing nut.

    I know I could do it cheaper. Anybody have a better or different idea?
    Last edited by beyondthesidewalks; 02-26-2012 at 03:06 PM. Reason: sp
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Rader, Greene County, Tennessee, USA
    Posts
    6,074

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    If you just have a relatively few disks to install, the wing nut is probably the best option. But if you have a lot of disks (hundreds, maybe?), and wanted to do it cheaper, just use a regular nut instead of the wingnut. Add a "one piece" handheld nutdriver of the appropriate size to your toolkit to handle adjustments.
    Graham
    USDA Zone 7A Elevation 1400 ft

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,880

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    I drilled them out to fit a beefier carriage bolt and wing nut, maybe 1/4". I prefer the entrance hole level with the bottom of the box but.....the side of the disk with the entrance hole is the lightest side of the disk, if your wing nut loosens the disk will rotate closed over the entrance, heavy side down. You either have to make 100% sure that the nut is tight when you have bees in the box, or make the entrance at the top of the disk. When I drop off the bait box after the catch, in the evening, the bees swarm out stinging after the move. So you have to glove/suit up to make sure the nut is tight after opening the disk.
    I learned this the hard way, smothered a huge swarm, the disk swung shut.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    Do you have a reason for wanting the entrance level with the bottom of the box?

    I"m thinking a cut or star lock washer might be a good investment but I'll wait to see if I run into that first.
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Issaquah,WA,USA
    Posts
    2,381

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    Where did you find the best disks.? Link please.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bowling Green, Kentucky
    Posts
    419

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    I use a metal roofing screw into them from the outside. the little rubber washer on them holds the disk tight but you can still turn it with a little umph

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    Quote Originally Posted by EastSideBuzz View Post
    Where did you find the best disks.? Link please.
    The info is here:
    http://www.beesource.com/forums/show...m-traps./page2
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,880

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    Quote Originally Posted by beyondthesidewalks View Post
    Do you have a reason for wanting the entrance level with the bottom of the box?
    Drain if water gets in, bees hopefully keep it cleaner.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: WTK Metal Disk Entrances

    I just drill a weap hole in the bottom. It's not unusual for us to get humidity close to 100% and condensation can be a pain.
    When you stop learning you're dead.

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