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How do you "bait" your swarm traps?

63K views 85 replies 39 participants last post by  shannonswyatt 
#1 ·
I'm wondering about your methods of keeping lure scent in the swarm trap.

What kind of scent of lure do you use?

How do you make it last? Or do you revisit often?

I know about using comb, but what about slumgum, or something else that's not so common?

What are your approaches to luring or "baiting" the swarm trap?

Thanks,

Adam
 
#65 ·
Re Roark, First off I see this is your first post. Welcome to beesource!! There's a thread somewhere (I looked briefly but couldn't find it) where you can post for a cut-out / trap out job. It seems that is what you need to do reading your last couple lines. You can also start a new thread and title it something like "cut-out job in New Orleans" and people can post to you. Otherwise there's a link to bee removals on this site. http://www.beeremovalsource.com/bee-removal-list/ There should be several on that list you can call.
 
#66 ·
I would like to put out some swarm traps this year near our existing hives, since we had wild swarms trying to take over some of our established hives last year (which are only about 18" off the ground). If you put drawn comb in the swarm traps, how do you prevent the wax moths from ruining it?
 
#68 ·
I have never used slumgum to bait a trap. I don't think it would hurt any but I think the comb should still be in trap. I have seen people melt wax into their traps. I can't say if it helped or hurt. Now as far as the scent. I've used a cotton balls and q-tips and haven't noticed much difference. I personally check my trap every couple weeks after swarm season starts. And I do rebait the scents in trap (queen lure, Lemongrass). Not sure that it is necessary but I do it. For no more than I have invested in the lures why not?
http://honeycomb-hill-beekeeping.blogspot.com/2013/03/swarm-trapping.html
 
#71 ·
how many frames of old brood does it take? one? two? what about the space?
Here is how I do it.

I use old 10 frame equipment exclusively. Old equipment that is ready to be thrown away. Entrance cut down to about 4 inch width, and 3/8 height. (That keeps out mice. I leave mine out all year.

I place mine primarily on blue plastic tubs that are about 2 1/2 ft. tall and 2 foot in diameter. I do that because I can get all I want, and mice can't climb up the sides of the plastic tubs. I do place a few in deer stands in the woods, and sometimes on just big rocks out in the woods or at the edges of fields.

If box has holes, just nail a piece of wood over the hole on the outside. Doesn't matter what it looks like.

I normally put two frames of old dark comb, and one frame of starter wax. The remainder is left open. I use the starter wax to discourage them from dropping a comb beyond the starter wax, if I don't check them often enough and they spend some time in the trap before I find them. After they move in, I fill the trap with a couple more drawn combs and the remainder starter wax and leave it for 10-12 days. Then remove the frames from the trap, place swarm in a nice, clean, box and move to one of my yards. Then set the catcher box back up again with two dark combs and one starter wax.

I use 4-5 drops of lemongrass oil, one drop on the landing board, one on the bottom board near the rear under the dark comb, and one drop on each top bar. I refresh the lemongrass oil in 30-45 days if they haven't caught anything. We often get late swarms, as late as August and September.

cchoganjr
 
#72 ·
Flyingbrass, I've heard that some folks put a piece of old comb, not even a whole frame. The old brood comb just has the smell of bees, so any amount is better than none. It seems that LGO is more important than brood comb. I say that based on the results of folks just using brood comb versus just using LGO. The combo is probably better though than just one or the other though.

Eventually old comb should be culled from the hives, and swarm traps make the most sense.
 
#73 ·
I have my best luck with deeps. I have tried nucs with little success. If the space is not right for them you are wasting your time.
As far as a number of old brood frames I usually use at least 3 in each trap. Then fill it the rest of the way with frames of foundation. I bait it with queen lure and lemon-grass oil on a cotton ball. Good Luck!
 
#76 ·
I found this post on a product label for Lemongrass Oil,

Common Uses: Lemongrass Essential Oil is known for its invigorating and antiseptic properties. It can be used in facial toners as its astringent properties help fight acne and greasy skin. An excellent anti-depressant, Lemongrass Essential Oil tones and fortifies the nervous system and can be used in bath for soothing muscular nerves and pain. Lemongrass shares similar properties with citronella and has a great reputation for keeping insects away.

Does anyone know if/what there Is about it that the bees like? That other insects do not? Just curious before I buy some.
 
#80 ·
Does anyone know if/what there Is about it that the bees like? That other insects do not? Just curious before I buy some.
We got some natural bug spray for our kids (2 of them have had lymes disease) and one of the ingredients is LGO. So my bees often will fly by them, but they've never landed on them that I can remember, but being younger children they don't even like the fly by's.
 
#81 ·
For those of you looking for a glass dropper that has the rubber nipple on it, please be advised that if left more than a couple of months the rubber on the dropper will melt. I got mine, some time ago, at the Pharmacy at Walmart, and the first year I left it in a zip lock bag over the winter, and it melted the rubber nipple. I use mine, then after a while pour the LGO into another bottle. If you leave the LGO in the dropper, it will melt the rubber tip.

cchoganjr
 
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