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Thread: swarm trapping

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    KC, MO, USA
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    1,238

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    My lids on my D Cotes 5 frame nukes fit fairly snug, but not secure enough for me, especially if I plan on moving them, could get bumped then have a swam of mad bees chasing me.

    Im was also needing a way to secure traps to trees so I came up a awesome idea. I bought package of eye screws, going to drill pilot holes then use the 2 eye screws to hold down lid. Fingers tighten them so they will be like wing nuts. And a 3' piece of electric fence wire (cheap/a bunch left over) to fasten it to the tree.

    The wire will should allow me to attach the trap to any tree easy/quickly, and give me a little room to keep the trap level (for the foundationless frames). The traps will be resting the trunk of the trees so that swinging in the wind is minimal.

    Still pondering the disk door, for right now I will not be using one, will be using piece of duck tape IF I catch a swarm. I do not see any benefit in attracting a swarm. Only negatives if the remote chance it get bumped and closed by branches, a raccoons... (Just not worth paying money for that extra negative chance) I may make my own out of can lids if I must have them.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Park City Ky
    Posts
    1,945

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    FlowerPlanter.... I haven't seen any talk about it, but depending on how far your traps are, from where you want to take them, specifically how many miles you have to drive, HERE, is what I do on almost all my trapped swarms. The bees are in your swarm trap, so simply move them to the ground and let them set there for a day, or a few days, then transfer to a regular hive, and leave them longer or move them as in moving any hive. Then put your trap back in the same place it was for other swarms that will now find this box more attractive, since bees will have just been in it. If you are talking lots of miles, might not be practical to make multiple trips, but, if you have your frames in your swarm trap box, there is no hurry to move them anyway. It will take the swarm several days, to a few weeks to outgrow your nuc or reg hive. I normally use old delapidated boxes for swarm traps, and it is so much easier to move your swarm, after you have put them in good equipment. cchoganjr
    Last edited by Cleo C. Hogan Jr; 02-10-2012 at 01:04 PM. Reason: spelling

  3. #43
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    Aug 2011
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    KC, MO, USA
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    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Cleo Good idea, I can do that with most of traps. Some of my traps will be hard to get to and some will be 3 hours away and if they get full I will swap an empty for a full and take the trap home.

    I don’t plan on checking my traps but once a month (most areas that I am trapping will be mostly smaller feral hives). Surely they can't out grow a box (5 frame deep nuke) in one brood cycle unless they were too big to begin with. And if that’s the case what will happen will they stay and swarm or abscond or either? And in how many days?

    I do have 4 old 10 frame boxes that I will be using and going to put them in the best places.

  4. #44
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    Park City Ky
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    1,945

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Not much is going to happen in 30-60 days. The swarm will build comb, store nectar/pollen, make honey, the queen will begin laying, and as they run out of room, they will build burr comb in every nook and cranny available. They are not likely to swarm or abscond. More likely, the queen would cut back on laying, as room runs out in the hive. Since the swarm queen is the old queen of the old colony, as soon as they are fully established in your swarm trap, they may supercede her, but then the new queen/queens will take several more days before anything of consequence happens. Of course some primary swarms can be monster size, but even so, it takes a while to establish the new colony to the point it is ready to throw a swarm. Not likely to abscound after they settle into your swarm box. cchoganjr

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Athens, greece
    Posts
    140

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Hi all swarm-trappers. Very good info here.
    I am going to use 5 foundationless frames , and 1 with dark black drown comb in each swarm trap I have made. But all my frames are wired. Do the bees draw comb in a foundationless frame with wire, or I have to put it out? Of course I will put a wax strip on the top of each frame.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Liberty, Indiana, USA
    Posts
    167

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Leave that wire in there. They will build right around it giving the wax a little better support. Good luck this spring.
    Jason Bruns
    LetMBee.com YouTube

  7. #47
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    Oct 2011
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    Athens, greece
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    140

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Thank you very much, good luck to you also.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
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    5,041

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    >I am going to use 5 foundationless frames , and 1 with dark black drown comb in each swarm trap
    You might get crosscombing with this setup.

    >Some of my traps will be hard to get to and some will be 3 hours away
    Easy/close pickup is one feature to consider in placement. Three hours of gas @ $4.25 a gallon per catch? $$$?

  9. #49
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    Oct 2011
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    Athens, greece
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    Default Re: swarm trapping

    OD what do you think is better ? Frames with foundation?

  10. #50
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    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
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    5,041

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Quote Originally Posted by DRAKOS View Post
    OD what do you think is better ? Frames with foundation?
    I am not a foundationless expert, but...The one bait box I made foundationless last year had comb collapse when I moved it. I ran about 25 honey supers short last year and made them up with boxes with alternating drawn combs and foundationless. I ran short of drawn combs and where ever I had several foundationless in a row they cross combed it and attached it to the side wall of the box. The general recommendation for foundationless is that it is alternated between drawn combs. I had some medium depth foundationnelss bait boxes that did not cross comb and drew pretty good worker comb. If you use foundation in bait boxes put them in the shade so that you don't get foundation warpage from to much heat.
    The one benefit from the major the die offs I suffer is that I have a lot of brood comb from the dead hives for my baits and a honey crop from leftover stores to boot.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Athens, greece
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    140

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    OD thanks for the advice.
    Good hunting this spring!

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
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    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Alright - had a grandkid invasion this weekend, not over til tomorrow afternoon, but it was cold and rainy anyway.

    I have 4 nucs, 1 deep that I'll be setting out initially, the old deep is really old, wood putty in the corners, had bees in it for years, and it was cheaply built to begin with, so I screwed 2x2 posts in all 4 corners, screwed bottom and top into the 2x2's. I have 10 foundationless deep frames with starter strip of paint stirrer (not wax coated yet) and strung with 20 lb monofilament fishing line. Horizontally and x. I have 10 foundationless super frames that are getting a half strip of foundation, probably no string. And I have plastic foundation - pierco, the one piece, that have been used before. I MIGHT have 5 frames of comb left after setting the Hogan trap, so one frame of comb (BT sprayed) per trap. And lemon grass oil. I figured I'd alternate between the pierco and the foundationless to try to get them to draw straight comb. Most distant trap going out: 25 miles. And in an area I am in at least once a week normally - grandkids live over there.

    Good hunting to us all! (oh - gluing the half strip of plastic foundation in as starter strip - anyone have a suggestion?)

    Gypsi
    Stuck in Texas. Learning Permaculture in drought, guess I will teach permaculture in drought. The bees are still alive.

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
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    861

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    "(oh - gluing the half strip of plastic foundation in as starter strip - anyone have a suggestion?)"

    I've abandoned the starter strip of wax foundation because I've never been able to make them stay. Tried wedge top frames. Tried melting wax and using that to "glue" them in but they still kept falling out in our heat. I think I read someone recommending glueing them in with elmers glue but that doesn't sound right to me. I've resorted to wood strips coated in wax. Still have some SC wax foundation that I may try again if someone can give me a solution that really works.
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  14. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Fort Worth, TX, USA
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    1,789

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Well I'm using plastic foundation as starter strips in the super frame strips - was going to use luan but was afraid the glue in it might not be food safe, and I think I've hit Home Depot hard enough on paint stirrers, better give it a couple of weeks. I'm using 3/4 inch nails in the edge holes, and I guess I'll melt some beeswax and pour in for a better anchor when they are all done. Toddler didn't nap, I'd best run and save my house!

    Gypsi
    Stuck in Texas. Learning Permaculture in drought, guess I will teach permaculture in drought. The bees are still alive.

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ringgold, GA. USA
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    I have some brood comb from a couple winter die outs that I want to use on swarm traps but some of it has some capped and uncapped honey. Would this be okay for traps or will it just attract robbers?

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Will attract robbers and other unwanted guests. You don't need comb in a swarm trap. Undrawn frames work fine. LGO seems to be the silver bullet IMO. That's all I use to attract swarms on foundationless frames and it works. I only use frames in my swarm traps for the ease of moving trapped swarms into standard equipment.
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ringgold, GA. USA
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    15

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    I figured I needed comb because last year I installed a package on foundation in a ten frame deep and that promptly left and moved into a neighbor's 5 frame swarm trap. He said it was because of the drawn comb. It was like moving into a furnished house.

  18. #58
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    Novato, CA
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    554

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Did he give you your bees back?

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ringgold, GA. USA
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    Yeah. I actually met him because I knew he had bees near by and I went to ask if he knew why they might've left. He told me we would check the trap that was closest to where my hives were and sure enough there they were. We have sine become good friends and he has helped and taught me a great deal. Everyone said he was an old grump but he's actually a great old guy.

  20. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: swarm trapping

    I had to check your location and make sure it wasn't San Mateo. Sounds like odrank behavior to me. Anyway, you're safe in GA. Who knows why bees do what they do. They certainly don't read our books or subscribe to beesource. I haven't bought a package in a long time and there are a lot of things working against you in a package. The bees are not related. They've just been shaken from their hive and joined with a bunch of strangers and a strange queen. When trapping bees things are a little different. They are related and working together from the get go. I'm not sure they moved into his swarm trap because of comb but that may be the case. Was he using any attractant? I wouldn't let this bad package experience effect my swarm trapping. Did your neighbor give you your bees back?
    When you stop learning you're dead.

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