Sloped Box Handle Cleats - see pics

[odfrank]

It was requested of me to divulge the secrets of my sloped handle cleats. I think the complaints about boxes being to heavy comes from the fact that people are trying to lift them from hand holds only. Those are not hand holds, those are finger tip holds. Finger tips are not made for heavy lifting. I add sloped cleats to all boxes.
I cut them at a 20 degree angle. They are about 1 1/2" tall. I brand before adding cleats. I screw and glue them on, I place their top outside low enough to allow lid over hang with their bottom above part of the hand hold. This allows me to stick a lot of my finger into the hand hold and get a real squeeze grip on the cleat. I can also lift empty boxes one handed, fingers under the cleat and thumb on the frame rest back edge. I usually use 3/4" thick stock, but made 1" thick this year cut down from 2X6 redwood. The problem with the one inch thick stock is that it put the medium supers just at their tipping weight when stood on their end. This would not happen with deeps. The ones with 3/4" stock do not tip. The slope also makes rain run off rather than behind the cleat to cause rot. End view, bottom view, whole finger grip view.

[Mbeck]

That's slick!
My boxes have a cleat across the hand holds as well. 2" x 3/4"
The lip of my migratory lid fits over it ( lids are extra long).
The cleat is even with the top of the box and helps add support to thin frame area.

I don't put handles on supers but I'm exceptionally strong ( and good looking)

I copied the cleat idea from a migratory guy.

I really need a cheap way to brand... Any ideas?

[jrbbees]

Nice idea of the hand hold. But where they match up with the original cut out for lifting they would make a perfect home for the Black Widow we have in abundance over here.

[Charlie B]

But where they match up with the original cut out for lifting they would make a perfect home for the Black Widow

I've never seen a spider set up shop outside the box, only inside under the SBB or under the outer cover.

[Adrian Quiney WI]

Thanks. That is very helpful, and will save me some time trying to reinvent what you have perfected. Adrian.

[Michael Palmer]

Odfrank, what is the significance of the 15-32?

[sqkcrk]

Maybe it's his Beekeeper ID Number, like they have in FL?

I prefer picking up my supers by the handholds on the short sides. I have sometimes found doing so by the long sides is tippy.

It looks like you have made good cleats which make picking up boxes more secure for the person handling them. I have found great variation in how handholds are cut. I really like handholds that are scalloped so the top of the handhold goes up into the wood, not 90 degrees.

Cleats make it hard to stack equipment close together on a pallet or on a truck, though I know many find them no problem.

[Daniel Y]

I prefer picking up my supers by the handholds on the short sides. I have sometimes found doing so by the long sides is tippy.

That was just the bracer you had before heading to the yard kicking in.

[sqkcrk]

Heh, heh. Very funny.

[wildbeekeeper]

odfrank: are screwing them from the inside of the hive body or outside from the cleat? Nice idea with the sloped cleats!

[Charlie B]

Bring one of those when you speak at our club meeting in February!

[Mtn. Bee]

odfrank: Thanks for sharing, I have been thinking about a similar design to try to get away from rot behind the cleats!

[tsk]

This is pretty similar to what I've done. I'll try to post a photo if I can. I use the scrap from a 1x8 and cut it 1.5" at 35 degrees. It doesn't cover the entire face, I center it. But it's material that's already available.

Edit: here's what mine look like:

[sweetas]

That's slick!
My boxes have a cleat across the hand holds as well. 2" x 3/4"
The lip of my migratory lid fits over it ( lids are extra long).
The cleat is even with the top of the box and helps add support to thin frame area.

I don't put handles on supers but I'm exceptionally strong ( and good looking)

I copied the cleat idea from a migratory guy.

I really need a cheap way to brand... Any ideas?

BRANDING
A router is a cheap quick simple way.

Use a 1/4 in router with a 45 degree bit and go 2 mm deee or whatever.

For the boxes, I draw lines each side of a 19 mm piece of wood and freehand between the lines.

Preferable to do the routing before assembling.

If routing frames after assembly , just put in the hive and rout the centre frames, the outer two are hard to do, then re-arrange .

CLEATS
I use 42 mm x 19 mm pine, to go the width of the short side.

When I lift a box without cleats, I curse. It is so much easier with cleats.

I pre-drill the holes using a jig so all the holes are where I want them without thinking.

I have a jig that places the cleat in the right spot for me. Its very quick.

I have just used the retangler wood without a slope.

Having read this article, I might put a slope on top side using a 22 degree router bit.

Hopefully water is not a problem as we suppose have 800 mm of rain per year but it really dry most of the year.

[max2]

"freehand between the lines."
do you use a felt pen, brush or??

[sweetas]

I draw the lines with a pencil

I "freehand" with the router,.

A 1/4 inch router is light and smaller base diameter.

You can buy them for less than $50 new or less s/h.

My brand in Western Australia is R01, which is fairly easy to do.

With the "R" I start at the bottom LH side and do in one run.

The "0" I start at about 2 o'clock and go to the left over the top in a smooth run.

With the "1" I start at the bit at the left at the top do one run.

FRAMES
When doing frames before assembly, I lay out ten on a bit of material that holds them steady and go for it.

A slightly damp towel would do.

It takes 200 seconds to lay them out, rout the brand and month/year eg 5/12.

I put the month/year on all the stuff I make /assemble just for future reference.

It is not necessary.

That is 20 seconds each or 3 to a minute.

I found using an electric brand too slow.


BOXES
I put on the brand, month/year, and box number. (not hive number)


Routing is permanent and flexible.

I found using an electric brand too slow and I hired it from WAAS.

The $200 plus for a brand is not value for money
A electric brand is not going to give you the flexibility.

Geoff

[max2]

Got it! thanks max

[odfrank]

Odfrank, what is the significance of the 15-32?

15 is the county and I was the 32nd person to apply or the band #.

[sweetas]

Max

I had the indication you sent me a private reply. It was blocked by something.

Use my beesource name then @iinet.net.au

Geoff