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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, Va
    Posts
    797

    Default Hot Dipping Tank design

    I plan to have a vat fabricated soon for use in hot wax dipping my woodenware. I have already obtained my paraffin and rosin.

    I was wondering if the vat should have a drainage valve system. This would allow for cleanout of settlement in the bottom of the vat.
    Bee all you can Bee!
    http://www.hamiltonapiary.net

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Dahlonega, GA
    Posts
    82

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I have been kicking around the same idea. I am torn between hot wax/rosin or something in a honey oil stain.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Fredericksburg, Va
    Posts
    797

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I am expecting to add some recylced beeswax. I have even thought thought that I may end up adding boiled linseed oil if needed to bring up level. Boiled linseed oil has drying agents where as raw linseed oil tends to remain tacky.

    I remember old folks talking about finish for yellow pine flooring being a boiling mix of linseed oil and beeswax.
    Bee all you can Bee!
    http://www.hamiltonapiary.net

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,102

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    A drain would be nice. I kind of wish I had one on mine. It needs to be able to withstand the heat and not melt, even if the heat gets higher than it should. A melted valve and liquid leaking would only add to your problems if you ever got it too hot...
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Gilmer,TX USA
    Posts
    1,830

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Is your tank going to be a double boiler design? I have a big vat that's 1/8 inch plate...can I just put a burner under it? Does it need to be a double boiler design?
    Mike
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,102

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    You need to get it up to 250 F or so. A double boiler would only work if it was under a moderate amount of pressure. I think I would like that. Even better have a steam generator separate.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Gilmer,TX USA
    Posts
    1,830

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Will the wax burn if it has direct heat with just a vat? I.e. propane burner hitting a vat?
    mike
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,102

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    It will discolor from direct heat. If you could limit the heat it would not discolor nearly so much. I don't know if it hurts it from the point of view of coating boxes...
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Lakeland, FL
    Posts
    91

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I think Keith Jarret uses a double walled tank with a scrap wood fire below. I used a steel drum with electric band heaters.
    There are plenty of people using both fire and electric heating means with single wall tanks. As long as you stir the wax every so often, I don't think overheating should be a problem. Keep a close eye on the temps w/ a digital thermocouple thermometer. I'd keep it below 300 F. Don't do it indoors and keep fire extinguishers handy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Gilmer,TX USA
    Posts
    1,830

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Thanks...dipped boxes look ugly in a few years anyways...if the wax gets discolored big deal.
    Mike
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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Hudson, WI USA
    Posts
    2,195

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    From what I see it seems to take an awful of material to fill up the tank. I envisage it would save on the initial cost of material if something inert was occupying the space that did not contact the sides of the box as it was dipped. Perhaps a boulder or two would do the trick. I haven't seen this idea incorporated in the youtube videos I've seen - so perhaps there is some elemental flaw in this idea.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Bowling Green, Kentucky
    Posts
    419

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I thought the same thing adrain what i was going to do was have them weld a box inside that was small enough that a super would fit over it so you would only have to have enough wax and rosin to fill the outer box you could put rocks or fire brick into that inner box to hold heat.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,079

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I've been watching this thread with interest. I'm content with painting for now, but I do have such a 'vat'. It's a stainless steel box, I do not know the exact dimensions, but it's about 18" wide (perfect for hanging frames in) 30" long and maybe 20" deep. I use it for melting wax from frames. Just heat up about 20 gallons of water, then stick in a frame and swish it around.

    However, it could be used for dipping boxes, I think two mediums or one deep at a time. I use solid cinder blocks to weigh my hive tops down and if you stacked a few of those inside your vat sufficient to take up the space inside a hive box, you could save a significant amount of wax and rosin.

    Anyone have a bead on a price for 20-30 gallons of paraffin?
    Solomon Parker, Parker Farms, ParkerFarms.biz
    11 Years Treatment-Free, ~25 Colony Baseline

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Rocky Point NC
    Posts
    27

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    The saving space sounds good now but the wax and rosin is a one time purchase. Where this limits you at is I dip bottoms and migratory covers 10 at a time. My cooker is big enough to do two deeps at once. Compared to painting every 7 1/2 minutes I have a hive body ready for service. I do not miss painting three days if weather permitted.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,079

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    As far as valves go, a good brass ball valve with Teflon seals will withstand sweating, so surely it will withstand 250 degrees. You might want to put a little extra pipe on it to get it further from the flames just for ease of use.
    Solomon Parker, Parker Farms, ParkerFarms.biz
    11 Years Treatment-Free, ~25 Colony Baseline

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    5,079

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Solomon Parker, Parker Farms, ParkerFarms.biz
    11 Years Treatment-Free, ~25 Colony Baseline

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN, USA
    Posts
    4,062

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    You might consider just having the fabricator weld in a pipe threaded fitting that you can usually just keep capped (or plugged) and then screw in a boiler drain valve on the occasion that you want to empty the tank. That would save wear and tear on the valve, and it wouldn't be sticking out there during normal use.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Coopersville, Michigan
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    I'm in the process of setting my tank up to dip this Spring. I would put in an very strong word of caution on setting up your tank. You want a good amount of clearance room in case you get a wet piece of wood or a splash of water which will cause boil over. I'm also leary of a valve in the bottom, though it would be a nice addition. A fine steel mesh screen on a metal pole might do the trick though like a pool cleaner. If you happen to be using an open flame you have 200-500 pounds of nice hydrocarbon fuel on hand.

    I don't have pics yet because I haven't set it up and I probably went overkill but my tank is 22" X 26" and 36" deep. The bottom is quarter inch steel and the sides eighth inch. I also made a telescoping cover for it out 16th inch steel and an oversized splash guard for underneath. (Once filled it will easily cook 3 deeps at once and be able to accomadate any bottom boards, telescoping covers etc I have). I made it extra tall because I'm paranoid and the handle on the lid will fit a 2x4 under it so if for some reason the thing lit up I can put the cover on to snuff it from a safe distance. I'm surrounding my burner with brick to hold in heat and covering the brick with my splash guard so anything that drips/splashes/boils out won't be able to hit the flames. Then I'll probably brick around the upper part of the tank to hold in heat.

    Resources that I found helpful when looking around are below.

    http://www.queenrightcolonies.com/up...ofBeehives.pdf
    The PDF gives a lot of great info and pics from a study in New Zeeland or Australia on using it to sterilize and preserve.

    Parafin Wax (If you decide to fo that route)
    http://www.candlewic.com/store/Produ...raffin-Wax-140
    Best price I could find anywhere

    Gum Rosin
    http://www.jhcalo.com/
    Only place I could find that would sell it by the bag at a reasonable price, you do need a UPS shipping number and credit card to order, but they were very helpful.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Amador County, Calif
    Posts
    3,170

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingfisher Apiaries View Post
    dipped boxes look ugly in a few years anyways...
    Only if you don't paint them.
    NUTRA-BEE feed supplements

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Gilmer,TX USA
    Posts
    1,830

    Default Re: Hot Dipping Tank design

    Well whats the point them? I mean if I am going to paint them anyways why dip? A good dipping setup and wax runs $500+! I can by a powerpainter and a bunch of barn paint for that!
    Mike
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