>Inspect hives and remove bur comb;
As many already said, I wouldn't.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#leaveburr
>close up vent holes I drilled in the brood boxes with wine bottle corks
I wouldn't have drilled the holes, but yes I would stop them up. If you don't have another top entrance of some kind (notch in the inner cover etc.) then I'd leave the top one open.
>Install entrance reducers;
Yes, and mouse guards.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeswinter.htm
>treat for varroa mites;
I wouldn't but I have natural comb and small cell...
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnaturalcell.htm
>put black "tar paper" around the hive to conserve heat;
I wouldn't, but if I were going to, I'd put some wood on the corners to hold it out from the wood. My experience was the boxes were soaking wet all winter when I did...
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#stopwrapping
>I read that it is highly advisable to remove the honey super before winter, because the honey may freeze, making the comb unusable later.
Not true. You may end up with crystallized honey but it will not ruin the comb and the bees will consume it fine.
> Your post implies the bees may actually feed on the honey in the honey super if I leave it on.
Yes.
>Would you advise leaving it on, or would this just make too large a space for the bees to keep warm?
Space on the sides and overhead have some effect on how warm the bees are, but they are not heating the space per se. They will move up if there is too much space overhead and then the space will be below them.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesscientificstudies.htm#overwintering
>I may not wrap only because it it would be a hassle to get all of that stuff on the roof.
I don't mind the hassle of wrapping, although I'm certainly in favor or saving work and cost if it makes no difference, but my main reason for not doing it is that it seems to seal in the moisture.
>Yes, I agree its smartest to begin feeding 2:1 now as it is easier now than later.
If you're going to feed, now is better than later.
>Only thing is, I want to pull the harvestable honey first (for my own greedy self) before I start feeding, as I don't want it adulterated with syrup water.
Personally I would not pull honey to feed syrup. They have to get it dried and capped and it will disrupt the microbes in the hive to feed syrup. Why go to all that trouble if it's not going to help them and may cause them problems.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesmorethan.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfoursimplesteps.htm#naturalfood
>Re: capping, I though that bees always capped the frames in the honey super when they were done, and if the frames were not capped it meant the honey is still ripening. Is this correct?
Mostly, yes. But they sometimes don't cap it because they are in the process of using it. However I think your situation is that it's not dry enough, which leads to the next question, if its taking that long, under current conditions, which will only get colder and worse, for that to dry enough to cap, how long will it take to get the 2:1 syrup down to the required 5:1 to cap it?
>I'm going to begin closing up the hive for the winter now. Can someone suggest a good way to close up the screened bottom board for the winter?
In a few weeks you can get all the political signs you want. Cut them to fit.
> Would it be sufficient for me to simply install the corrugated plastic mite count boards?
Yes. If you have those you won't need to make anything.