Going to pick up a hive with bees about 30 miles away. Never hauled one before. Any do's or don'ts when I go get them?
Going to pick up a hive with bees about 30 miles away. Never hauled one before. Any do's or don'ts when I go get them?
This is my checklist when I move hives.
1. Pickup in the evening when all the girls are inside.
2. Use a good strong ratchet strap to keep boxes together. Cinch it up tight.
3.. Stuff a rolled up piece of window screen the exact length of the entrance in the entrance.
4. Keep hive level when lifting to keep frames together. You might have to re-adjust frames later.
5. If multiple box hive, have plenty of help available.
6. Face hive entrance away from wind if transporting in a pick-up truck.
7. Pull screen off in early morning. (I suggest you wear protection when doing so or be prepared to run really fast).
8. Leave them alone for four or five days to let them do their orientation flights.
President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
www.habitatforhoneybees.org
I agree with everything Charlie said except one thing
#7 says to pull the screen off early in the morning.
I'd give the bees about 5-15 minutes to calm down after their trip, pull the block and leave then. You didn't mention if they were being placed at another remote location or your backyard, but IF you forget, over sleep, car breaks down, or for any other reason, you can't get to them the next morning, you could be sealing them in to die. I only say that because as we all know, life happens. I'd hate to see your next post as "I killed my bees by accident..."
A couple of other things:
-You could also you rolled up toilet paper for an entrance blocker, at least they could chew through that eventually.
-CAREFUL with any flashlight use, as you're approaching the hive(s) or working around them, the bees can be attracted to the light and stings can happen. A night vision flash light (red L.E.D.) is a good thing, the bees don't even seem to react to it.
- BRING YOUR GEAR! You start getting the hive(s) prepped to move, ratcheting the tiedowns on, or stuffing something in the entrance, the bees might come out to defend their home.
Good luck,
C2
This reminds me of a funny story.Me and my cousin were stacking bees on back of trk dad had bought from someone they were in old equipment losts of cracks.Long story short we jumped and ran quater mile down a dirt road at night it was rough not as funny to us then though.Warning at night they craw to me thats worse than flying.
...if I were moving a hive over 140 miles, and it would probably be dark[when I started] got there, is there anything wrong with removing the entrance mesh that night? Or should I wait until the next morning, don my jacket and then open the 'front door'?
Thanks for the Thread; I am preparing to give a hive to a buddy soon!
I was intending to close up the hive after dark with the mesh, load things up in my truck with a camper shell and drive the 140 miles to the new home.
I would not wait until the next morning. Worse case, yeah, they might be a little uptight, but that's what we have bee suits for. If you wait a few minutes they will start to settle down, but I would take the entrance block out that night after I set the hives set in their places.
C2
I prefer moving early in the AM. In the south, bees are usually bearded up more in the evening. It is much easier to move them if you can see what you are doing.
If it is in a car and you don't have power windows leave them open at least somewhat so any straglers can get out of the car.
When I picked up my bees I didn't wear a suit. The entrances were plugged with a wad of grass and removed when I got the hive in place. I don't remember any urgency for the bees to come out and I certainly did not get chased or stung. I can't speak for the bees you are getting/giving.
No indication at all that the bees were upset or needed to settle down.
I would make sure the box is full of frames empty or not so they can't turn and fall off the rabbeted edge.
Brian Cardinal
Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping
Depending on the distance the bees are being moved, I prefer to close them up and screen them in (i use an entrance screen from Brush Mtn) at sunup and then move them by 8:00 or so, depending on when my help (my college aged son) is available. I use a ratchet strap around the entire hive and to complete the over kill I secure the hive bottom to the bottom box with hive staples. This way my son and I can move the hive very easily with a hive carrier. He doesn't like to use protective gear which is why I always get the front of the hive. Oh yes, duct tape is your friend! My hives have auger holes for ventilation and those get covered with duct tape. I attach the entrance screens with duct tape too.
Worked out good. Picked em up about 8pm and into the pick-up with a couple straps, and got home after dark. Set the hive down and left it alone for a bit, then pulled the opening blocker off. I'll do an inspection after a few days. Thanks for the replies.
Nick.
Make sure you puff the entrance with your smoker. I move all my hives at dusk/dark. I don't screen the entrance. They stay inside with a couple puffs and just put them in your truck. Make sure to secure them or you will have a mess.
I only had to move mine about 20ft, but I waited until after dark and then stuffed half a pollen patty in the entrance. After we were done settling it I dug a couple small holes in it to get them started and then let them chew themselves out. Personally I think they liked it because they ate the whole thing.
As for me, all I know is that I know nothing...
- Socrates
See, no big deal.
Brian Cardinal
Zone 5a, Practicing non-intervention beekeeping
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