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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Crenshaw County, Alabama
    Posts
    1,900

    Default 8-frame box...is this right?

    I haven't seen a cut list for an 8-frame box, but I think I've got it figured out. I'm no carpenter or woodworker so don't laugh if I've got it all wrong, ok?

    Here's what I understand as of now...

    Using 3/4" stock the outside dimensions for an 8-frame 6-5/8" super are 19-7/8" x 13-3/4".

    The boards for the 13-3/4" ends are actually 13-3/4" long and have a rabbet 3/8" wide (1/2 the wood thickness) and 5/8" deep running the length of it for the frame shelves/holders. At each 6-5/8" end there is a rabbet 3/8" wide and 3/4" deep.

    The boards for the 19-7/8" sides are cut 19-1/8" long. The two 3/8" thickness of the short boards' rabbeted ends make up the other 3/4".

    So to summarize.... I cut the long board to 19-1/8" long and the short board to 13-3/4". I then cut the rabbets in the short board for the frame shelf and rabbet joint, slap some glue on the ends, put it all together, nail/screw,....and a super is born!!!!

    This ends up giving the inside dimensions of 18-3/8" x 12-1/4". Right?

    Is that pretty well it? I just wanta get it right the first time...if I can.

    Thanks for the help!!!
    Ed

  2. #2

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    I use the same outside dimensions for my 8-frames.(although I shave off 1/16 of an inch for the long boards to make a snugger frame rest). For frame rests I just use a piece of 1/4" plywood glued/stapled inside the box.

    I haven't drawn up my 8-frame plans yet, but here is a link to my 6/7 frame plans (7 is a tight fit) which use almost the same dimensions, just shorter end boards. I use these for mating nucs and/or stackable (2) for swarm traps mounted around the area. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehou...cf929bd42c2756

    Don't worry about getting it right the first time. I think it took me 3-4 tries before I got it just the way I liked it - and then I am still making modifications
    Jim Andersen
    Desert Viking Ranch

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Alachua County, FL, USA
    Posts
    6,803

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    Start cutting! You might find some 8 frame equipment that is 13 7/8 or 14. they still stack fine just do not line up pretty. I cut 14s for 8 frame but do not change for inch thick lumber. I make my 10 frame inch thick supers a bit larger to accomodate the extra half inch of wood.
    americasbeekeeper.com
    beekeeper@americasbeekeeper.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,457

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    >Using 3/4" stock the outside dimensions for an 8-frame 6-5/8" super are 19-7/8" x 13-3/4".

    That's what mine are. Some are as large as 14" instead of 13 3/4".

    >The boards for the 13-3/4" ends are actually 13-3/4" long and have a rabbet 3/8" wide (1/2 the wood thickness) and 5/8" deep running the length of it for the frame shelves/holders. At each 6-5/8" end there is a rabbet 3/8" wide and 3/4" deep.

    If you intend to have a rabbet joint, that would work.

    >The boards for the 19-7/8" sides are cut 19-1/8" long. The two 3/8" thickness of the short boards' rabbeted ends make up the other 3/4".

    If you're doing the rabbet joint, that is correct.

    >So to summarize.... I cut the long board to 19-1/8" long and the short board to 13-3/4". I then cut the rabbets in the short board for the frame shelf and rabbet joint, slap some glue on the ends, put it all together, nail/screw,....and a super is born!!!!

    The screws actually hold better with a butt joint, in which case you make the ends 12 1/4" long and the sides 19 7/8" long and cut a 3/8" by 5/8" rabbet for the frame rest in the 12 1/4" pieces.

    >This ends up giving the inside dimensions of 18-3/8" x 12-1/4". Right?

    Yes.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Barry, TX USA
    Posts
    861

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Bush View Post
    >The screws actually hold better with a butt joint, in which case you make the ends 12 1/4" long and the sides 19 7/8" long and cut a 3/8" by 5/8" rabbet for the frame rest in the 12 1/4" pieces.
    That's what I do predrilling my 1/8" screw holes and using 3" deck screws. Gives me a strong box that I'll put up against any rabbit or box joint and it's much less work. Use good paint and that end grain will be fine.
    When you stop learning you're dead.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Crenshaw County, Alabama
    Posts
    1,900

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    Thanks everybody for the confirmation on the measurements...

    Jim, using 1/4" plywood glued in for the frame rests...is this just a small strip or is it a piece basically covering the interior side of the short piece except for the frame rest area? Seems it has to be strip or otherwise it might mess with the bee spaces on the ends...???? I guess there's enough room for the frames to fit, too? As for not getting it right the first time...I feel pretty confident that I won't.

    ABK, thanks for the encouragement! I think I'll shoot for the 13-3/4" dimension...seems to be somewhat of a standard.

    Michael, thanks for the input on my measurements...with your interest and knowledge of 8-frame hives I was hoping you would comment. But...now you got me thinking again. From your posts that I've read I've noted that you build mostly lap/butt jointed boxes. This would indeed be easier for me to build as it would cut out one adjustment of the dado blade (and cut out the precision required that I don't have in using the tablesaw, too). What size screw should I use to do the butt joints with. Also, if I decided to go with nails and rabbet joints what type/size of nails should I use...I've got a pneumatic finish nailer that I'd like to use but I'm not sure if finish nails are what I would need to use.

    Beyondthesidewalks, 3" deck screws, eh? If I go the screw route I'm just hoping I can drill/screw straight so the screws don't veer out the sides of the wood.<groan>

    Ed

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Algoma dr. Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    645

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    I just now finished cutting out a dozen 6 5/8 super boxes using a design with just two fingers each one half the board width. Short finger on top of end piece with a single rebate (rabbet) along its top edge to make the frame rest. At each corner one finger is screwed from the end and one screwed the other direction from the side. Easy to lign up and seems strong. I found much nicer job with no splits by drilling and countersinking the face where it takes the screw. Appeared to be no splitting where the deck screws went into the end grain. Wish I could handily post picture. The problem I found with doing a full width rebate into the end piece to receive the sides was that cupping of the wood resulted in varying depth.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,804

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    You might consider the wider boxes if you are in a heavy propolis area. Some of my nuc boxes are too tight with heavily propolised frames.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    2,338

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    Quote Originally Posted by odfrank View Post
    You might consider the wider boxes if you are in a heavy propolis area. Some of my nuc boxes are too tight with heavily propolised frames.
    So that's why your hives swarm, too tight!!!
    President, San Francisco Beekeepers Association
    www.habitatforhoneybees.org

  10. #10

    Default Re: 8-frame box...is this right?

    Quote Originally Posted by Intheswamp View Post
    Jim, using 1/4" plywood glued in for the frame rests...is this just a small strip or is it a piece basically covering the interior side of the short piece except for the frame rest area? Seems it has to be strip or otherwise it might mess with the bee spaces on the ends...???? I guess there's enough room for the frames to fit, too? As for not getting it right the first time...I feel pretty confident that I won't.
    Ed
    I use a piece covering the entire interior side of the ends. I am not sure, but I thought too much space would allow for burr comb areas. If you used a strip, I would be a good location to maybe try some 3/8" slats, something I may try myself next time I build a few boxes

    I also use butt joints because there is not any extra cutting (have to change out regular and dado blades on the table saw) and I usually only make a few at a time as I go along. I may find in the future they don't work well enough, but for now I use Titebond III wood glue and a "good amount" of 1/4" crown staples; I use the 1 1/2" long ones for everything and not complaints as of yet. Screws would be my second choice, but my air stapler is just so much quicker
    Jim Andersen
    Desert Viking Ranch

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