Re: Which is better...Cypress and rabbets or White Pine and box joints?
Originally Posted by Intheswamp
Glue the hive side panels to the ends pieces of a rabbet hive joint with Tight Bond III wood glue. Attach the ends to the side panels with wood or 2 inch long dry wall screws (pre drill the holes and counter sink). Before painting take a small amount of Tight Bond III (mixed with a dab of water) and "paint" the two 3/8 inch wide strips of exposed wood end grain on each end panel. After you prime and paint, you won't have much moisture soaking into your boxes. Do not over tighten the screws, just snug them up.
WARNING: If you do the jig project outlined below be sure to start with a piece of plywood that is perfectly square and parallel (on all four sides)! Failure to do so may result in a jig that will insure "perfect" parallelogram bee boxes, not square ones.
A nice flat (and square) piece of scrap 3/4 inch wood with (4) 13/16 inch "channels" (3/8 inches deep) dadoes in one side of the plywood the same size as the type of hive you are using makes a fine jig for holding & squaring the 4 hive sections and 8 ends of a rabbeted hive box in place until you get them glued, clamped screwed and/or nailed together.
If you are really froggy you can make a 10 frame, an 8 frame & a 5 frame nuc jig, all using the same piece of plywood by just dado two more channels for the side panels to rest in while they are glued, clamped, and screwed or nailed together. One side or long channel is a common channel used for (by) all three box sizes. The two end channels are common to all three box sizes. This jig looks a little like a tic-tac toe grid once finished. This jig is also useable for holding bottom boards.
Remember to wax the heck out of the top of the plywood and all the channels (especially the corners) to help prevent glue spills from sticking to tightly. Also do not forget and allow a finished box to top frame to set in the jig while the glue dries or you take a break. Once Tight Bond III sets you may not be able to retrieve your new equipment from the grip of this jig.
The jig will hold a telescoping top frame together for assembling if while you have your table saw set up you cut 4 more channels (the size of the T-top frame) around the 4 channels used to hold what ever size hive box you prefer.
A handy dandy try jig (for an 8 frame box) can be made by using a 1 by 4 that is 22.08 inches long and with each end shaped into a wedge or lead pencil point shape measuring 22.08 (23.56 for 10 frame) inches from point to point. A box that is square should barely accept this jig when it is used to measure from one corner of the box to the furthest corner. In other words the jig is inserted into the box catty wampus (cross ways) the length of the box, once for each 2 corners.
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