In the most recent ABJ is a letter from John Hoffman talking about how he has successfully used a system to provide for dead air space on top of a SBB (Screened Bottom Board) with the hive on top. He claims to have kept the mites "at a comfortable low level" using this system. As he describes it, a box (shallow honey super) is placed over the SBB - the top of the box is covered by 1/2" x 1/2" wire mesh. He refers in his letter to a his September 2008 Bee Culture article "DEAD AIR SPACE - A Hive Configuration For All Seasons" I have not been able to locate the article yet to review it - but the basic concept is intriguing.
I'm interested in hearing other peoples' thoughts on the concept. Where I am on the Coast of Maine I've found it too damp to use standard SBBs and use regular wooden bottom boards, standard 10 frame hive bodies each having a 7/8" auger hole drilled mid way between the handle and the upper right corner of the box (facing the hive from the entrance), a notched inner cover and standard telescoping cover. Mr. Hoffman talks about not having any extra vents above the dead air space to avoid the "Chimney Effect." If I were to follow his method it would not be hard to plug the auger holes with corks - and the notch on the inner cover can be closed by making sure the telescoping cover is pushed up against it.
I imagine with his method the bees make use of the entrance in the SBB - it is unclear to me if he leaves the entrance open or reduces it - nor if it makes much difference.
How do people think his method might work in an area of high moisture? For example this last week we've had 4 days of heavy fog with temps in the high 50s/low 60s. A few (brave?) bees have been flying but most have been staying home. Today the temp is supposed to reach the 80s and it is humid, but without the fog. The bees will be flying today for sure!
If I were to test his configuration how many hives should I do it with (percentage) and what should I be looking for in terms of evaluating how well it works? I typically wrap my hives with roofing paper for winter - not so much to keep moisture out but wind. I had issues this past winter wrapping too well and trapping excessive moisture inside the colony.
TIA for your comments - and if anyone knows where I can get the September 2008 article I'd appreciate hearing about it.
I almost forgot - my motivations for being curious - I keep bees on two organic farms and so methods of mite control that don't call for anything that might put the farms' organic certification at risk is a good thing - And I'm trying to think about ventilation proactively before next winter so that more hives will make it through.
I'm interested in hearing other peoples' thoughts on the concept. Where I am on the Coast of Maine I've found it too damp to use standard SBBs and use regular wooden bottom boards, standard 10 frame hive bodies each having a 7/8" auger hole drilled mid way between the handle and the upper right corner of the box (facing the hive from the entrance), a notched inner cover and standard telescoping cover. Mr. Hoffman talks about not having any extra vents above the dead air space to avoid the "Chimney Effect." If I were to follow his method it would not be hard to plug the auger holes with corks - and the notch on the inner cover can be closed by making sure the telescoping cover is pushed up against it.
I imagine with his method the bees make use of the entrance in the SBB - it is unclear to me if he leaves the entrance open or reduces it - nor if it makes much difference.
How do people think his method might work in an area of high moisture? For example this last week we've had 4 days of heavy fog with temps in the high 50s/low 60s. A few (brave?) bees have been flying but most have been staying home. Today the temp is supposed to reach the 80s and it is humid, but without the fog. The bees will be flying today for sure!
If I were to test his configuration how many hives should I do it with (percentage) and what should I be looking for in terms of evaluating how well it works? I typically wrap my hives with roofing paper for winter - not so much to keep moisture out but wind. I had issues this past winter wrapping too well and trapping excessive moisture inside the colony.
TIA for your comments - and if anyone knows where I can get the September 2008 article I'd appreciate hearing about it.
I almost forgot - my motivations for being curious - I keep bees on two organic farms and so methods of mite control that don't call for anything that might put the farms' organic certification at risk is a good thing - And I'm trying to think about ventilation proactively before next winter so that more hives will make it through.