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Thread: Titebond 3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Gilmer,TX USA
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    Default Titebond 3

    Can I use TB 3 on all woodenware, including frames?

    mike
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Whitsett, NC
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    489

    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Yes, I would recommend using titebond 1, 2, or 3 on frames. I haven't had a frame come apart yet and bees seem to be doing well.
    Just some thoughts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Berkeley,California, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Yes, but I am not sure there is any reason to. I use Titebond III for all boxes, bottom boards and top covers, but stick to Titebond I for frames - it is less expensive and becasue it it less runny, I find it easier to work with for frames.

    -fafrd

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Weatherford,Texas,USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    I was lazy and used it on everything
    "It's better to die upon your feet than to live upon your knees!" Zapata

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Carlsford, Indiana, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Here is a link to information for all of the Titebond glues.

    The Titebond Glue Family

    Titebond II and Titebond III are FDA approved for indirect food contact.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    I use it for everything- it may be more expensive but that way it gets used up and doesn't get old on the shelf.

  7. #7
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    roswell, georgia, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Elmer is crying in his beer - I don't think using a cow in his advertisement helped with his marketing.
    EAS Georgia Certified. "Tradition - Even if you have done it the same way for years doesn't mean that it is not stupid."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Malabar, FL
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    we use III on everything, including frames....your woodenware is a longterm investment....use the best....Titebond III.
    A government large enough to provide everything you need is strong enough to take everything you have. T. Jefferson

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Munfordville, Ky. U.S.A.
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Titebond III on every thing. The only reason I use it is there is nothing stronger!! Why would you not use it on frames? They are more suseptible to coming apart than the boxes.
    So much to learn, so little time!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Fairfield County, Connecticut, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    I also use it for everything.

    I also seal all of exposed end grain with the glue before painting.
    BeeCurious
    Trying to think inside the box...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Grand Rapids MI USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    As aforementioned the Borden's cow (Ellsie I think?) needs to be retired along w/ their glue formulas.
    Titebond III is food grade approved when set and is waterproof (not just water resistant), soaks in the wood fibers where the urethanes don't. Good stuff Maynard.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Venus, Texas, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    I make wooden bows and have used TBII, TBIII, Elmer's Carpenters, and Elmer's Waterproof Carpenters varieties...

    For what it is worth, plain old Elmer's Carpenter's is strongest...if it is kept dry.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Venus, Texas, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    FWIW...

    I also use "super glue" (cyanoacrylate) to make bows. If you have a spplinter pulling up on the tension side of the bow's limb, it will stop the crack dead in its tracks.

    I have even used it for a bow's "finish".

    Bonding any surface larger than a few square inches is tricky..you either wind up gluing your self to the wood...or it dries faster than you can get the pieces together. To help allieviate the cure rate problem...I chill the glue in the fridge to slow down the cure rate.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    Quote Originally Posted by jeb123 View Post
    I make wooden bows and have used TBII, TBIII, Elmer's Carpenters, and Elmer's Waterproof Carpenters varieties...

    For what it is worth, plain old Elmer's Carpenter's is strongest...if it is kept dry.
    Won't those all creep if kept under continuous tension?

    On second thought - as long as you always unstring I guess it's not a problem.
    Last edited by David LaFerney; 03-10-2011 at 10:31 AM. Reason: On second thought

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Venus, Texas, USA
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    I have made bows using hickoty, red oak, yellow birch, moso bamboo, and Osage (bois d'ark). Up to now the only ones I had any real creep issue with is osage. Its got an oily resin in the fibers that that tends to make the glue line let go.

    You must always unstring a wooden bow after use...the wood fibers themselves creep and the bow takes a "set", which reduces the draw weight and arrow speed.
    Last edited by honeyman46408; 03-10-2011 at 05:30 PM. Reason: unq

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Titebond 3

    That's cool. Ever make self bows? So many hobbies so little time.

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