Titebond 3

[Kingfisher Apiaries]

Can I use TB 3 on all woodenware, including frames?

mike

[Ski]

Yes, I would recommend using titebond 1, 2, or 3 on frames. I haven't had a frame come apart yet and bees seem to be doing well.

[fafrd]

Yes, but I am not sure there is any reason to. I use Titebond III for all boxes, bottom boards and top covers, but stick to Titebond I for frames - it is less expensive and becasue it it less runny, I find it easier to work with for frames.

-fafrd

[Jaseemtp]

I was lazy and used it on everything

[Ueli Hoffmann]

Here is a link to information for all of the Titebond glues.

The Titebond Glue Family

Titebond II and Titebond III are FDA approved for indirect food contact.

[David LaFerney]

I use it for everything- it may be more expensive but that way it gets used up and doesn't get old on the shelf.

[hoodswoods]

Elmer is crying in his beer - I don't think using a cow in his advertisement helped with his marketing.

[peacekeeperapiaries]

we use III on everything, including frames....your woodenware is a longterm investment....use the best....Titebond III.

[valleyman]

Titebond III on every thing. The only reason I use it is there is nothing stronger!! Why would you not use it on frames? They are more suseptible to coming apart than the boxes.

[BeeCurious]

I also use it for everything.

I also seal all of exposed end grain with the glue before painting.

[rwlaw]

As aforementioned the Borden's cow (Ellsie I think?) needs to be retired along w/ their glue formulas.
Titebond III is food grade approved when set and is waterproof (not just water resistant), soaks in the wood fibers where the urethanes don't. Good stuff Maynard.

[jeb123]

I make wooden bows and have used TBII, TBIII, Elmer's Carpenters, and Elmer's Waterproof Carpenters varieties...

For what it is worth, plain old Elmer's Carpenter's is strongest...if it is kept dry.

[jeb123]

FWIW...

I also use "super glue" (cyanoacrylate) to make bows. If you have a spplinter pulling up on the tension side of the bow's limb, it will stop the crack dead in its tracks.

I have even used it for a bow's "finish".

Bonding any surface larger than a few square inches is tricky..you either wind up gluing your self to the wood...or it dries faster than you can get the pieces together. To help allieviate the cure rate problem...I chill the glue in the fridge to slow down the cure rate.

[David LaFerney]

I make wooden bows and have used TBII, TBIII, Elmer's Carpenters, and Elmer's Waterproof Carpenters varieties...

For what it is worth, plain old Elmer's Carpenter's is strongest...if it is kept dry.

Won't those all creep if kept under continuous tension?

On second thought - as long as you always unstring I guess it's not a problem.

[jeb123]

I have made bows using hickoty, red oak, yellow birch, moso bamboo, and Osage (bois d'ark). Up to now the only ones I had any real creep issue with is osage. Its got an oily resin in the fibers that that tends to make the glue line let go.

You must always unstring a wooden bow after use...the wood fibers themselves creep and the bow takes a "set", which reduces the draw weight and arrow speed.

[David LaFerney]

That's cool. Ever make self bows? So many hobbies so little time.