I am getting ready to assemble frames for my new hive. I am considering using my air stapler. I have a box of 1 3/8" narrow crown staples. Would they be too long? Kelley's assembled the ones in my nuc, and the width is exactly the same.
Thanks
Shane
I am getting ready to assemble frames for my new hive. I am considering using my air stapler. I have a box of 1 3/8" narrow crown staples. Would they be too long? Kelley's assembled the ones in my nuc, and the width is exactly the same.
Thanks
Shane
not too long!
americasbeekeeper.com
beekeeper@americasbeekeeper.com
Many thanks,
I really appreciate the help.
Shane
I am trying to remember what I use, I think I use 1" on frames.
Mike Forbes
Red Dirt Apiaries
Yep. 1 3/8" is fine, 1 1/2" is 1/8" better!![]()
1 3/8" or 1 1/2 is fine
Use glue and inspect each frame after it's been stapled. I find that some of them need to be whacked with a hammer to make the joint completely tight and get the glue to set up well.
Thanks Neil,
I had bought and used some Loctite III for the boxes. Will keep my rubber mallet handy to completely set the frames. Thanks for the tip.
Shane
look out for the fingers ,or you will be attached to the frames,ouch
When the project expands into more than a few boxes, consider a frame assembly jig, as seen in the Build-it-Yourself section. A great complement to a staple gun, and WAY SAFER to the fingers. Don't forget a face shield.
+1 for a jig they take a bit of time to make but you can roar through 10 frames in no time...watch out for blowouts when you shoot the staples in...i will always have one or two frames that the staples angled in and blewout the other side, just watch the angle you shoot them in and they should be fine...i used titebond II or elmers carpenters water resistant glue...have fun!
+1 for jig. I have been using 1" long narrow crown staples but am finding issues with the joints holding together. I want to convert to 1.25 staples.
Mike
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Of course! I think my glue was bad though.
mike
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I just put an inch of that 1 1/2" narrow crown staple thru my finger. God watches over children and old fools and it missed the bone and was slip no damage. Don't try to staple as fast as you can!
Vance - When your finger is feeling better, build that jig. It keeps your hands entirely clear of the shooting direction and you only have to be careful of jams, blowouts and ricochets. It only took me one stapled finger to figure that out.
Also, blowouts are caused by wavy wood grain or pinhole knots near the end of the stick, or sometimes by hitting another staple, nail or screw. If you select only strong, straight grained wood for the frames, it greatly reduces the number of blowouts.
Incidently, when stapling hive bodies, I don't shoot a staple into the top edges of the short ends where the notch for the frame hangers reduces the thickness of the wood from 3/4" to 3/8". Blowouts ruin too many boxes, and there is a lot of work into a box by that time. A metal, 2-inch, 90 degree angle strap repairs the wood if the glue joint doesn't hold it. Screw these in back past the finger box joints.
I find pouring glue into a half soda bottle and applying it with a paintbrush is much quicker than using the squeeze bottle when using the frame jig or when assembling hive bodies. Keep a coffee can or bucket with water and a wet sponge for cleanup.
Last edited by kilocharlie; 03-08-2011 at 09:12 AM.
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