Naval Jelly for extractor basket rust in a really bad location?

[D Coates]

I'm rebuilding a 20 frame extractor from Dadant that was built in '79. It has 5 collars that the stainless steel basket is welded to, 2 high 3 low and they are tightened on a stainless steel shaft with allen screws. Here's the weird part, they appear to be regular steel. They rusted such that I stripped one of the bottom allens so I can't get it off. I can't drill it out as it's too close the the basket and I can't get anything in there.

I've got the Camcote to seal it once I get it clean but how do I get it clean? I'm considering sand blasting it but that will only get the exposed areas whereas Naval Jelly might work better for my challenges. I'd really appreciate any feedback from anyone with any experience in this arena.

Thanks in advance.

[vegasvalet]

Not sure of the size of the parts that are rusted but there is a way to remove rust using a battery charger.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WgNdbYLz4Q

[D Coates]

I watched the video and I can't get in to scrub out the black that will be invariably hiding between the collars and the stainless steel shaft. Cool idea, thanks for showing it to me.

[HVH]

Some easy-outs have a tapered square shape rather than the typical round spiral and might grab onto the corners of an allen head. Sometimes a few seconds with a gas torch will loosen everything up. Also, good penetrating oils like Aerokroil can make a difference.

[BeeCurious]

You might consider using "Ospho".

It will convert the iron oxide to iron phosphate... and provide a stable surface to be coated with your epoxy.

It is liquid, not jelly-like, so it will penetrate where the jelly won't.

I pretty sure it cheaper.

[D Coates]

I'll check Ospho. Thanks!

[AstroBee]

I'd just try the sandblast idea and coat it well with the camcoat. I have a little experience in auto restoration world, and ospho, naval jelly, etc will typically reduce the adhesion of the epoxy paint. For that its worth, the procedure for cars is: sandblast, clean with a waterborne cleaner, then two coats of epoxy. If you can sandblast and clean it I don't see the downside.

[Walt McBride]

My Dadant 20 fr. radial circa '85 uses only two ss. collars with double set screws, welded to the total of eight arms to the upper and lower basket rims.

It looks like you could get a 90 degree angle drill motor with a cut down bit to drill out the allen screw and with the aid of an easy out.

I have heard of at last resorts to plunge a steel rod slightly smaller than the hole with a electric welder attached to the rod to spot weld to the set screw. The extreem heat on the set screw helps loosen, and the steel rod allows back out. You just do not want the rod to contact any where but the center of the set screw.

Walt

[BeeCurious]

Some "spot" sandblasting sounds like a good idea, and Ospho will get into the areas that the sandblaster can't.

Rince the Ospho'd surfaces.

I would slather and work the epoxy into any cracks and crevices that can be filled.

[fish_stix]

The basket is a pretty straight forward pull. Take the 4 bolts out of the bottom bearing cover, unbolt the top motor support and pull the whole basket out. You're going to want to replace the bottom bearing anyway. Not good to have it freeze up during the middle of extracting. All the parts, except motor, to completely rebuild your extractor are about $90.00 from the Dadant Metal Plant. Phone 217-852-3324, and talk to Penny.

[D Coates]

Been annoying Penny when I ordered the repair parts. The bottom bearing was shot and the electric motor components were damaged in shipping. Penny has helped me convert this unit to the direct drive system they now use. Very good customer support especially considering this is a used unit.

[D Coates]

Walt Mcbride, yep same set up. Now imagine those 4 collars you mentioned rusted such that they even have pitting.

Update: I went after the allen screws one last time. This time with an extraction drill bit at a 75 degree angle. It didnt' work but it did apparently break something loose. (No "Kingpin"reference intended) After tapping an oversized Allen wrench in there with a mallet it finally came loose. I did the same with progressively worse angles to the remaining 2 screws with success. The collars and threading were not damaged by blind luck. Then I realized how rusted on those collars were. In short, after a mallet, vice-work a couple hours and a nasty cut on my hand I finally got the SS shaft off there.

I've still got the seam (can't clean between horizontally and they are welded together vertically)between the two set of collars that's rusted and will need to be dealt with before I can camcoat.

I'm planning on using "Ospho" for this if I can find it. No one seems to offer it locally and I only need a tiny amount of it. Does anyone know of another name for this or an equal product I should look for?

[BeeCurious]

Look at the list of distributors on Ospho's website:

http://www.ospho.com/