Sounds like a plan.
Sounds like a plan.
44 years, been commercial, outfits up to 4000 hives, now 120 hives and 200 nucs as a hobby, selling bees. T (mostly).
Here's one of my prototype top-bar bait hives.
It's basically just a miniature of Phil Chandler's top bar design.
I'd love to build them a tad smaller/lighter, but I have a feeling that would greatly lessen my chances of capturing a swarm. I already have a plan to place the steel rings that screw-in at each corner and then string through nylon rope for hoisting. I have a pulley also.
I also plan on staple-gunning some banner material over the roof and partway down the sides for added protection from weather.
Nice looking trap PatBeek. I like the size. I made two, one 8 bar and the other 10 but no takers yet. I gave up on the 8 bar and put a split in it. Seems a bit small now that it has 5 bars of comb and a few shakes of bees. Your 15 bar is probably a better size.
This is my first so I don't know yet how successful it will be. Do you have any bees yet or are you waiting on the luck of the swarm?
I like it! I just built my first one yesterday--I made it 10 bars. Seeing as it hasn't caught a swarm yet, it's a total failure.......
I was curious about the entrance to your trap--it looks like an 1 1/2 hole with screws in it? Won't it be hard to seal the entrance with a cork for transport? Maybe I'm missing something?
You may want to consider side entrances. They naturally keep the rain out.
Is there any reason that wouldn't work? Please let me know before I do anything drastic, like stick it 15 feet up in a tree.
But I guess I have this mental block that erroneously believes they will build comb a certain direction based on where the entrance who is. Obviously, after two seconds of thought, that very idea is rendered completely absurd.
I will definitely consider side entrances on the next several I build.
Here's the bait hive ready to go.
I saw a website the other night that suggested making a mock flower around the hole to make it more attractive and easier to spot.
COULDN'T HURT !!!!
I also covered it with banner material and gave it an expert camo color job.
I would just staple some hardware cloth over the entrance on success. Has the added benefit to giving a little ventilation to the hive during the move. That or screw a block of wood or something else over the front.
I don't think the bees orient the comb based on the entrance. But if they do, you definitely want it on the side. Otherwise all of those Langs would be wrong. I have a nuc (2 feet) that I made last year and someone other than me cut the hole in the front. It is the only hive that has taken any water. Had to add a porch to it to keep it dry.
What did you use for the top? I used Coraplast on my top bar bait hives, which works great, but I thought maybe Tyvec would work as well, and I can get that for free in small bait hive pieces from a construction site. I was worried Tyvec may leak since it is supposed to breath (I think).
I made one like this but drilled the hole on the end up at an angle rain has to come sideways to get into it when it runs down the side and hits the angled edge of the hole it keeps runnin down the side.
I've got an 18 bar tbh I'm using for a swarm trap at the moment. It was a dead out, as I tried to winter a nuc in it. So I left one comb in it at the back, and then filled in the other 17 bars with empties.
Some of my tbh traps are just square boxes with top bars in them. They're easier to build, and I figure, even if I didn't get to the box for a bit and they built square combs, they're easy enough to trim. I also use #4 hardware cloth over bait hive entrances. I just use a big screw driver to stretch a couple of the squares for easier drone movement.
Swarm trapping is a fun thing to do.