Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 35
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Langstroth Build

    This is the point I am at in the build so far , I still need to make some medium bodys . Also need to make the tops and inner cocers as there is two units . Put one of my mug in with them .

    Jeff



  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Palm Bay, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,297

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Nice job! Just seal the end grain on those corners real good with paint or whatever else you plan to use and put some of those bee thingys in them.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Could anyone tell me what is a good clear finnish to use on the wood to keep the wood natural looking .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Troy, IL
    Posts
    138

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    About the best you can do for a clear finish for outside use would be Spar Varnish. It will hold up better than a polyurethane product. There are other Tung Oil based products that you can use for exterior use, but you will have to reapply these every so often.

    I would think you would need to be careful with VOC based products around the bees.

    I have seen some Log Home wood finish/sealers that wore like iron, but I have no experience with them. The excellent ones are probably a bit pricey too!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    I think I will just seal and paint them , believe it will be easier to maintain .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    I made the top cover and one medium super , also played with the hive entrance reduced opening this morning . I need to make one more medium super and a bottom board and stand , also need to make some inner covers . Below is a couple pics of it so far .







  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Malabar, FL
    Posts
    1,268

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    nice looking set up there 2PUP!!
    A government large enough to provide everything you need is strong enough to take everything you have. T. Jefferson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Auckland,Auckland,New Zealand
    Posts
    5,826

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    You really should cut some hand holes in the supers, not having them can be a pain.

    Nice bottom board, and got to say, one of the best finished hives I've seen! Even been sanded?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,797

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Or add some cleats for hand holds...

    Nice.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Knox County, Ohio
    Posts
    2,694

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Dipping the boxes in wax and rosin seal them and leave the wood looking natural.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Troy, IL
    Posts
    138

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Your boxes look nice! I'm a woodworker too, and spent a few hours in the shop today making some hive components. I built a couple of bottom boards, and will be building some medium supers tomorrow morning.

    I built a new fence assembly for my box joint jig, to enable me to cut 3/4" pins and did a few test cuts. I was considering dovetails, but I have much better dust control with my cabinet saw, so I decided to go with box joints instead. I'll post some pictures tomorrow when I get the supers cut and assembled.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    I will be addind some sort of hand holds for lifting , Roadstar , looking forward to see your build , considering I,m a structual welder by trade , I think I did ok with the build . I will be making more hives this winter and will use finger joints or box joints which either you call them . If I knew someone localy that could dip them I would go that route , but will seal and paint these .

    Jeff

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Auckland,Auckland,New Zealand
    Posts
    5,826

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Wouldn't rush into finger joints, boxes made that way rot a lot quicker. Rebated joints will last longer and are plenty strong.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    TORONTO,ON. CANADA
    Posts
    174

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Bush View Post
    Or add some cleats for hand holds...

    Nice.
    Nice work. After my first harvest I decided to go with cleats on all of my boxes. Huge difference . Honey is a very heavy thing. Plus, cleats make every box much stronger.
    ==Northumberland County Beekeeper, Trent Hills, Ontario==

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    portland, dorset, UK
    Posts
    128

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Hi 2PUPs,

    I totally agree with Oldtimers comment about boxes with finger joints rotting quicker.
    I've got many boxes which are 40 or 50 years old -I bought them from a (then) 76 year old beekeeper who had himself sourced them from a major British Honey Farm when it closed it's doors, so their history is pretty certain. The interesting thing is that while they are showing their age the best ones are those with the simplest butt joints such as you've already used: no rot or movement, as square as the day they were made.

    Best,
    Roland
    Last edited by honeyman46408; 11-14-2010 at 05:24 AM. Reason: UNQ

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Troy, IL
    Posts
    138

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Rolande and Oldtimer, I agree that finger joints would have a tendency to deteriorate quicker, due to the amount of end grain exposed. A proper and well fitted rabbet joint, coupled with modern adhesive and fasteners, would hold up just fine. I often wonder why commercial boxes are still offered with box joints, other than tradition and ease of construction and squaring by the consumer that is assembling the unit.

    I may rethink my jointing, and use a rabbet joint instead. Pictures later, on whatever I decide! :-)
    Last edited by honeyman46408; 11-14-2010 at 05:22 AM. Reason: UNQ

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ipswich , Mass
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    I`ll stick with butt joints and seal the ends really well and paint them . When painting , you just paint the outside , what about the edges that each box sits on , paint them or not .


    Jeff

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    TORONTO,ON. CANADA
    Posts
    174

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Quote Originally Posted by 2PUPs View Post
    what about the edges that each box sits on , paint them or not . Jeff
    Not exposed to weather, no need to paint
    ==Northumberland County Beekeeper, Trent Hills, Ontario==

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Troy, IL
    Posts
    138

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Here's the result of my shop time yesterday. I managed to build 2 medium supers, and 2 bottom boards. I decided to try a rabbet joint in these supers, and I think they will work out well for durability. Everything was glued with Titebond III, clamped, then nailed with Maze Nails. Once primed and painted, I think they will weather fine. I may do some with box joints at some point too, just for grins!

    The lifting handles are 6" x 2", with a 30 degree opposing angle for drainage, and a better grip for lifting. I glued and screwed the handles.

    On one bottom board, I used some Eastern Red Cedar for the band board, just to see how it will hold up compared to Pine. Red Cedar is pretty rot resistant, so time will tell.

    The bottom board planks have ship lapped joinery, to eliminate gaps should the boards move or shrink.






    (I'm sorry about the original photo size, I should have read the size limitations before I posted them. Always hate to cause Mod's more work!)
    Last edited by Roadstar; 11-14-2010 at 01:20 PM. Reason: Resized images to meet limitations

  20. #20
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,824

    Default Re: Langstroth Build

    Quote Originally Posted by MARBIS View Post
    Not exposed to weather, no need to paint
    I disagree...water sits on the top edge of the boxes and rot starts there. I paint top and bottom edges, use spacer sticks between boxes while paint is drying. The only thing that keeps the Golden Gate Bridge from rusting is constant maintenance to keep it well painted.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Ads