Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

My MacGyver Extractor

23K views 36 replies 23 participants last post by  Rader Sidetrack 
#1 · (Edited)
#6 ·
Yes, it soon became obvious that without a gear reduction, spinning by hand required more stamina than I had (envision two 90 degree elbows back to back, one turned down the other up) for a handle.

So I resorted to a variable speed electric drill with a 1 1/2" coupling fitted over the chuck. Took less than 5 minutes to spin out the frames, then another minute at a higher speed to spin the remainder out.

I like tinkering around so I really enjoyed building it. It is just to hold me over till I get up to enough hives to decide if I really like beekeeping enough to merit a honey house and real extraction equipment.
 
#35 ·
#10 ·
Ah, but they are food grade:



NSF/ANSI Standard 2: Food Service Equipment
Equipment commonly known as 'fabricated food equipment': kitchen, bakery, pantry and cafeteria units, and other food handling and processing equipment including tables and components, counters, shelves, sinks, hoods, etc.


Round Brute® Trash Cans
Industry leader in waste and material handling applications.

All-plastic, professional-grade construction will not rust, chip or peel; resists dents.
Strong, snap-on lids are available for secure, stable stacking.
Reinforced rims add strength and durability.
Built-in Handles allow easy, non-slip lifting and anti-jam nesting.
Double-ribbed base increases stability and dragging capacity.
Gray, White and Yellow are USDA Meat & Poultry Equipment Group Listed and assist in complying with HACCP guidelines.
Optional easy twist on, twist off dolly provides safe mobility.
California State Fire Marshal (CSFM) approved when used as container/lid combo.
Certified to NSF International Std. #2 (gray, white and yellow) and Std. #21.
Dimensions : 22" Dia. x 27 1/4" H.
Capacity : 32 U.S. Gallons
 
#11 ·
After purchase, the can was scrubbed with soap and hot water, then rinsed, then cleaned with a bleach and water solution, then rinsed again and then re-washed with soap and hot water and re-rinsed. (the lid also). the PVC pipe components were given the same treatment and soaked in a bleach water solution to clean the inside of the pipes.

The plywood, after being cut was sanded then assembled. After assembly it was saturated with Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil. and then wiped down to remove any excess. The outlet hole was left open to allow the honey to drain from the can without ever submerging the end of the shaft, there was virtually no contact of honey to the shaft(pvc).
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for the compliments everyone. As I said, i can't say anything about durability yet. It holds either mediums or shallows. I run all medium equipment, so it fits my stuff. The frames I extracted were all newly drawn comb this year. Wired vertically on wedge top bar frames with no horizontal wiring done. I have not damaged any frames as yet. I determined rotational speed by the unbalance consequence. Meaning I only spun as fast as feasible while holdoing the can in place.

As some wanted instructions I will e-mail them to anyone who wants them (the files are to large to attache at Beesource. They consist of a drawing(32 kb pdf) and a text file (8kb). (just e-mail or pm me)

Just be warned, this is a hobby rig and you could end up with just a garbage can full of wrecked frames and honey.

If you want a real extractor, I don;t think there is any better made than a Maxant. They definitely make world class honey handling equipment.
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
As some wanted instructions I will e-mail them to anyone who wants them (the files are to large to attache at Beesource. They consist of a drawing(32 kb pdf) and a text file (8kb). (just e-mail or pm me)
I have a website that you can host the plans on if you want and then you can just link to them. david.laferney@gmail.com I love home brewed equipment.
 
#24 ·
David,

I sent the plans and cover sheet to you via e-mail. Thanks for hosting them.

As for using plastic instead of plywood. I have no experience with the structural performance of the plastic. If it is strong enough to hold the weight of the frames without flexing, it should work fine. But as your costs increae, you get closer to a retail extractor, so you need to consider cost, durability and your time.

Good luck,

jeb
 
#27 ·
If you use Lexon it will work great, Lexon .25" thick little flexible but is sturdy, will not crack, dishwasher safe, just towel dry or leave flat in dishwasher for steril cycle. Lexon is very durable and inexpensive, go to your local glass shop and they might have cut-offs that they will sell for pennies on the dollar.
Great job, try selling in for sale section for a small mark-up.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Lexan may work, but I am a little concerned as to slivers or fragments from the lexan getting in the honey. Any white PVC or should be noticable, the clear lexan might not, even with straining. I let mine drain directly into an empty 5 gallon bucket with a nylon strainer set in it.

If I were to make any quick changes, it would be to buy pvc pipe bearings, or PE bearings/plates to add for the bearing surfaces. These are fairly cheap (under $10.00) and would remove the PVC to PVC "bearing" contacts. But since I was trying to build out of parts from Lowes or Home Depot, these were my best shot.

Please feel free to make improvements and let us know how they work. I am still concerned as to durability. When I extract my next few supers in the next few weeks, we shall see how it does. Hopefully by that time I will have figured out a better power driver than the cordless screwdriver. But I will say that if you have a pristine driver (which I do) and you set the resistance low enough, you will minimize the chances of breaking anything in the extractor.

Cheers,

jeb
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top