Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards
most of the warping and shape changing comes from using wet/green wood. My father and I build a hunting club a few years back for some people. They insisted on using this cypress that wasn't fully dry. We covered the walls with the cypress touching, and within a week, you could easily stick your finger thru the cracks. But once it dried, it stayed pretty constant(because we sealed it) If I were getting cypress boxes, I'd cover the outside with some type of sealer..
Disclaimer: I'm no expert. Use caution
So I looked at the costs from home depot in my area for pine 1x12x8's, they were 14.26 a piece plus tax.
From my calculations that is 1.25 hives per board. That is about $12.00 a hive.
Why would I do that when I can stop by Dadant and pick up their commercial deep super for 13.20 (pricing for 10-49 hives)?
I'm wanting to build about 50 hives, I know that is $60 savings, but it would save me a lot of time to just buy them pre-cut from Dadant...???
Any suggestions? Am I missing something?
I don't think your missing anything unless your looking for a hive box made of some special wood or special design. The money saving is making covers and bottom boards, especially when various scraps are used. If you have to buy boards for deeps I think you are not going to realize much of a savings. Where making your equipment does really shine is when you have to have your woodware shipped. With the shipping costs involved I could justify hive body building.
Well if you bought yourself a 1x12x12 instead you would have 2 deep hive bodies like your suppose to! Now your looking at $9 per hive!!! If you make it yourself that is and bought pine lumber!
Any body figure in the cost for their time in building . I know it will be different for everyone. Some derive pleasure from the experience (can't really figure the price on that I guess). But if you are a work man /woman time is everything.
If you live close to a beekeeping supplier, it probably makes more sense to buy them if the cost is close. As it's been mentioned, the shipping charges are substantial for woodenware. Some of us consider the woodworking aspect to be just as enjoyable as the beekeeping. Plus, we can justify buying more tools, which we also like.
My vote is for local American hardwood if you can afford it. I'd love to find cheap walnut (yeah yeah yeah i know...).
My vote is AGAINST teak or rosewood, Ipe, or any other tropical hardwood no matter how strong and durable and pest resistant. Rainforests are being decimated by our thoughtlessness in choosing "cheap" wood. Even many MDF manufacturers use tropical wood in their production facilities (so i'm told). when you're at your lumber yard ASK where the wood comes from and buy American.
OK, getting off my pedestal now
My turn!OK, getting off my pedestal now.
Local wood is always better. it's adapted to your climate. Whatever is used for fence posts in your area is usually a good choice. Up here in the PNW fir or cedar are good choices but you guys and girls in the southeast might use Lodgepole or equivalent. If you're building your own I'm a big believer in 'recycling'. If you're in the country rip the sides off an old fallen-in barn or what-have-you. If you're in the city grab wood from a demo site or scrap pile at a construction site. I doubt the B's care. Around here a 1X6X8' knotty cedar fence panel at Home Depot goes for 10 bucks.
I have purchased the cypress from Rossman and most of what I have has been white pine from Dadant.
I have painted a few hives with paint, which peeled off in big spots pretty quickly. Now, I'm trying something new. I'm painting my hives with boiled linseed oil. I'm going to do a long term study to see how it turns out.
Can you paint it with boiled linseed oil....then primer and paint it. Or mix the linseed with a solvent which will evaporate and help the linseed penetrate. Then you can primer and paint.
Just an idea.
I would use cypress if it were available here, and if it weren't more expensive than pine. Anyway, I use whatever I can afford or scrounge from salvage -- it all seems to work well, and the bees never seem to mind whatever it is.
Joseph Clemens -- Website
Hmmm.. cypress sure is purdy... and I guess if I were to set a hive afloat like Baby Moses, it would float a bit before the bees drowned....
I'm wishing my beginner hive kits weren't cypress. Now I'm stuck buying more cypress hive bodies because I used a transparent stain and it is pretty wood.
My next hives will be the cheapest possible solid wood (probably white pine). So that I can still buy the copper garden hive tops. :P
2 hives of Russians. 32 stings. 1 season of experience. And you-- yeah, you right there-- you're my mentor. XD
I'm looking at a limited amount of boxes to setup two hives and get started. Hopefully I'll set up things later to cut and build my own. For now it's either white pine or cypress, looking at costs the cypress will be a bit more expensive. White pine is box joints...cypress is rabbet joints. I'm beginning to lean towards the rabbet/cypress boxes simply for the reason of end grain exposure (or lack of). I'll be painting whichever ones I go with so "matching" the finish later isn't an issue...probably go with OOPS paint at Lowes or Wallyworld.
Desert Viking Ranch