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  1. #201
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Orange, Florida, USA
    Posts
    218

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    I just checked the early spring nuc which I started in one of these boxes about 3 weeks ago. The lid had warped just enough to open gaps at the front and back of the box and robber bees moved in. By the time I got to the nuc it was gone, totally robbed out which is a shame because I spotted capped queen cells in it last week. It must of been the plywood because not only did the lid bow front to back it was also delaminating along the edges even though it had three good coats of paint on it. I can't blame the design, just the plywood I made them out of. Time to pick up some pine for the new tops and pull out some more frames of brood for another nuc. At least the boxes look ok. Maybe I'll luck out and find some queen cells to build off of. Oh well if it was easy everybody would be doing it.

  2. #202
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Kingsport, Sullivan, Tennessee
    Posts
    788

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Beeboy: did you "Paint" the ply edges w/ Titebond III prior to painting? -james

  3. #203
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Port Richey Fl USA
    Posts
    242

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    That's why I previously expressed concernns on this thread about using plywood under Fl conditions. But I gave it shoot anyway, with slight mods:

    Since tops and bottoms are the first to warp or rot I used Cypress wood for tops and bottoms (scraps and leftovers I had) the rest is plywood. This way I have 8 nucs out of 1 sheet of plywood and still some left for a few medium nucs if I want to make them. Painted and Tibonded. So far they are holding good, full evaluation will follow after summer rains and 1 or 2 years of use.

  4. #204
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Murfreesboro, TN, USA
    Posts
    1,403

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    I cut some strips of plywood almost the side length and about 2" wide. Nail them to the outside edge on both sides of the top. Helps in keeping them from warping, keeps any gaps covered and protects from rain. Again, I use Cabbot's. Doesn't warp or rot when give 2 - 3 coats. All edges of wood and plywood just suck up the Cabbot's and will not split or rot like paint.
    De Colores,
    Ken

  5. #205
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sullivan, MO
    Posts
    827

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Since I'm not building TONS of these I modified the lids to be of the telescoping type. I can get 1X for 77 cents for an 8 foot section that will make 1 and a partial. I LOVE these NUC plans, if I can build them with just a circular saw anyone can.

    Rod

  6. #206
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    arnoldsville, ga
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    have you thought about using this on the tops of these? http://www.lowes.com/pd_12522-205-66...ductId=3050365 this is what I put on mine.. had done a great job.

  7. #207
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona, USA
    Posts
    5,029

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    I just cut pieces of this to make bottoms and covers for many of my 15/32" thick nucs -->


    This is 2" thick polystyrene, it's easy to cut with any sharp knife and a straight-edge. I use canvas, old towels, or pieces of plastic trash can liners as inner covers, and #8 hardware cloth to cover the poly bottoms, this keeps the bees from nibbling away the poly. The plastic film covering both surfaces can be peeled away so it can then be painted where exposed to sunlight (over time sunlight will weaken it, unless painted). It helps keep hives cool in Summer and warm in Winter.

    I've never had the slightest bit of warping when using polystyrene this way. When the plastic film is peeled away it can also be glued together with polyurethane glue - like gorilla glue, making custom configurations like telescoping outer covers.
    48 years - 50 hives - TF
    Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni

  8. #208
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    1,345

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    I also just make telescoping covers for my Coates nucs. A piece of plywood that does not have any support to keep its shape WILL warp. I put just a piece of plywood for a cover on one of my trap out boxes and when I checked back after one rain, I had a new top entrance!! I replaced that top with a telescoping cover and have no more problems. I even have a couple covers out there that are not painted at all, just to see how long they will last.
    Coyote Creek Bees

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    378

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Quote Originally Posted by Beeboy01 View Post
    The lid had warped just enough to open gaps at the front and back of the box and robber bees moved in. ... I can't blame the design, just the plywood I made them out of.
    I secure my nuke tops either with weight (there's a reason there's a huge wind-farm right up the road) or, when I'm using them for swarm traps, nails. I have also found that the quality of "1/2 inch" plywood varies tremendously.

  10. #210
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Port Orange, Florida, USA
    Posts
    218

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Well I didn't paint the exposed edges of the plywood with any type of glue. There were so many gaps and voids in the plys I ended up using the extra liquid nails scrapped out of the other glue joints in the box to fill the imperfections. The liquid nails filled in the gaps but it looks like it didn't seal the edges, oops. I made two tops with side rails but didn't use them, instead I used the ones without any long side support. We had three days of wet and rainy weather over the weekend which caused the wood to warp, should of put bricks on the ends of the lid but didn't think of it till it was too late. I checked the nuc today and to my surprise there were a bunch of bees still in it on the frame with a little capped brood. Being an optimist I put a 1/2 frame of brood in the nuc along with a good shake of house bees from another hive to see if I can keep it going. I'm not sure if the new queen absconded or was out on a mating flight, both queen cells looked like they had hatched but I didn't see any sign of a queen. There is enough brood in my other hives to keep the nuc going as long as I want so I'll keep swapping frames over till something good happens. I did a split two years ago that took over 2 months to get queen right, the season is still young and the main flow hasn't got here yet.

  11. #211
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona, USA
    Posts
    5,029

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Here are some pics showing how I make the Nuc modifications that I prefer -->

    -->Pic 1
    -->Pic 2
    -->Pic 3
    -->Pic 4
    -->Pic 5
    -->Pic 6
    -->Pic 7


    Perhaps a cleat across each end (as feet) would help to ensure the vent is not blocked when the Nucs are being transported.
    48 years - 50 hives - TF
    Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni

  12. #212
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Manning, SC
    Posts
    1,777

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Anyone ever made a full deep or medium (not nuc) modifying these plans for 3/4" wood?

  13. #213
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona, USA
    Posts
    5,029

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    That could be somewhat tricky, since 15/32" wide frame rests are about as wide as I'd want to get and still have dimensions suitable for bee space between frame End Bars and inside end walls of the hives. 3/4" wood or plywood configured similarly to these Nuc plans would have 3/4" wide frame rests and there would be almost no clearance between the frame End Bars and the inside end walls of the hives, let alone the proper bee space. If you were to use 3/4" lumber and configure it similar to these D. Coates Nuc plans, you would either need to use pieces of 3/8"-15/32" thick lumber (wood or plywood) for the end pieces, so the frame rest would still provide bee space between frame End Bars and inner hive end walls, use customized frames with longer Top Bar ears, or otherwise make modifications so bee space were preserved in all the appropriate places (such as spacers to reduce the width of the frame rests).
    48 years - 50 hives - TF
    Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni

  14. #214
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Saginaw County, Michigan
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Im curious to know what the 2" spacer shown on the top is used for? I plan to use these as bait boxes. Is the spacer needed for baiting? Can I fit the nuc with empty medium frames with something attached to the top bar to promote comb building?

    Thanks for the great plans. Couldnt have been easier to build!!!
    Last edited by G.Darby; 04-10-2012 at 08:13 AM. Reason: adding in thank you line

  15. #215
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Crenshaw County, Alabama
    Posts
    1,618

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    G.Darby, the end walls are a bit shorter than the side walls. The top of the end walls will be the frame holders/rests. The 2" pieces are attached to the outside surface of the end wall and are used to extend the end walls up to the height of the side walls leaving the top edge of the end wall pieces for the frame support.

    Ed

  16. #216
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    378

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    They also serve as excellent handles.

  17. #217
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Saginaw County, Michigan
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Thanks for the reply. I should have been a bit more specific with my question. In the link to all the pictures and plans for the nuc boxes, it shows two photos of the nuc with what is a 2" shim sitting on TOP of the nuc with a hole drilled in it. That is the part I am wondering about. Is that needed to use it as a bait box? And can I use empty medium frames for baiting as well?

  18. #218
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Winhall, VT
    Posts
    1,070

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    If you are building swarm traps then build them bigger than a 5 frame nuc. Yes, many people have caught swarms in 5 frame nucs but research shows they prefer a volume of about 40 liters (slightly bigger than a deep) especially in your northern climate.
    Raising Vermont Bees one mistake at a time.
    USDA Zone 5A

  19. #219
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Clackamas Oregon
    Posts
    630

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    Well we will see, Paint jobs finished up, one or partial frame of drawn brood, minimum of one frameless, one of plastic with extra wax and just what ever I could scrounge to make 5 in the box. The green is too green, even on a light green moss covered tree, the Moca was real red but the scotch pine (I think that is what it was) actually blended right in.



    “Why do we fall, sir? So that we might learn to pick ourselves up” Alfred Pennyworth Batman Begins (2005)

  20. #220
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sullivan, MO
    Posts
    827

    Default Re: Easy 5-frame nuc plans

    I don't know if anyone else had come up with hivetop feeders for these, but I went ahead and built one today just for these plans. Here are 3 pictures:
    5frameNUChivetopfeeder1.jpg
    5frameNUChivetopfeeder2.jpg
    5frameNUChivetopfeeder3.jpg
    I cut the side pieces 20 1/8th inches long, the front, back and divider pieces are 7 inches long, The wood it's self is 1X4 so it's actually 3/4 by 3.5. I painted the part that is going to have syrup with melted beeswax. The section for the bees to come up from below is 1.5 inches wide. The divider piece is the 1X4 that I cut and inch off of. The floor of the syrup compartment is just some plywood I had (less than 1/2 inch I think more than 1/4 inch I used some left over screen from making bottom boards it's the 8 lines per inch stuff. I'm going to paint it tonight and put it on a nuc tomorrow. I have enough material to make 1 or 2 more. Syrup compartment is 7X16X2.5 for 280 cubic inches (not that you would fill it all the way to the top.) According to an online conversion program that would be 1.2 gallons of good stuff. Let me know what you all think.

    Noticed when building the other one that I needed to add a rim of plywood around the hole, otherwise they would have a huge top entrance (or entry for robbers) that they just wouldn't need.

    Rod
    Last edited by rweakley; 04-21-2012 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Had to make change to feeder...

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