Easy 5-frame nuc plans

[Naturegoods]

Looks great and I happen to want a bunch of these!
Perhaps I didn't notice it but it seems the hardest part of dealing with 4x8 sheets is the initial rips to get sized down to something managable and avoid a big scrap factor.
Are they there someplace?
It's scary but photobucket already knew who I was and copied the pics to my folder

After thought - any small cheap hinge to attatch the lid along the side could be handy

[D Coates]

Fully agreed. I have the 4x8 cut in half at Home Depot. Dealing with 4x4 is no problem on a table saw.

No problem, add a hinge if you want. I don't so I can add or take away tops that have feeder holes in them or if I want to stack another nuc body (without a bottom) on top of that I can. For me the hing makes the unit less fexible

[Naturegoods]

It seems the rips could be at 9.0, 10.25, 10.25, 9.5, and 8.5 adds up to 47.5.
Seems that a 2feet x 4 feet piece should get me one and still fit in a compact car!
I know the prices on a 4x8 are better but ...... we do what we must.

[Ben Brewcat]

It seems the rips could be at 9.0, 10.25, 10.25, 9.5, and 8.5 adds up to 47.5.

You also have to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). Add the 5 cuts at .125 inches and you're over 48".

For cutting down sheet stock, if you don't have feeder stands, get an inexpensive 8' straightedge (it breaks down in 2 pieces) for drywall that comes with two clamps. Measure, clamp it so the kerf will be dead center (on the footplate on my circular saw it's 5"), and use a skill saw.

[Kieck]

Don't forget to add 1/8 inch for the blade width on each cutting pass (that 1/8 inch is converted to saw dust). Based on the way I figure, you could still get the rips out of 48, but barely. Keep in mind that you will have 4 kerfs between those dimensions.

[D Coates]

Never even heard of a kerf but I know what it is now. However you choose to cut it, when you're done and you got 4 nucs off of a 4x8 there's not much scrap left.

[SamG347]

Just wanted to say I picked up a sheet today. Going to make 4 Medium nucs out of it!

[standman]

Thanks for the pics. My son and I made 20 today out of 4 sheets and a little scrap I had laying around. Really easy. Might build some to sell to our local beeks. Can't wait to fill mine up with swarms and splits.

[slickbrightspear]

I guess I have just missed it where do the two small pieces of scrap go.

[RDY-B]

they cleat the top

[slickbrightspear]

thanx

[fuzzybeekeeper]

I can see how the double end pieces for the frame rests add some strength, but I don't see how the box would be strong enough to use as a super to add to the top of a nuc. The bottom adds a lot of strength and a "super" would not have a bottom for that strength.

Fuzzybeekeeper

[Ross]

I make a similar one, but do a couple of things different. I use 3/4" material on the ends and cut a dado around 3 sides to make the frame rest and recess the end grain of the sides. For the entrance, I just drill a 1" hole. I screen the bottom of mine and they are plenty strong.

[mherndon]

Built this yesterday. I did step up a grade of plywood. The plans were great. I did cut my strips 10.25, 10.25, 9, 8.5 and 7.5 this left a 1.75 strip for the end cleats. Looks good and very strong. I may end up cutting 2" holes with screens for ventilation in the bottom. I will probably cut a jar lid hole in the top for a feeder lid. I plan on using them to start queens or for spare queen nucs. I don't see any problem with stacking them, they will be plenty strong. I went ahead and put bottoms on all mine. I had a friend that used to make cabinets and he was set up with equipment. Table saw, radial arm saw, brad nailer, a square mounted to his work bench helped pop these out in a little over an hour. I slowed him down though.

Mark

[Monie]

Holy Hannah!! That's the best (A.K.A. easiest) nuc plan that I've seen!! Thanks for sharing!!

[Ben Brewcat]

OK everyone, just because I have some time on my hands and SWMBO is out all day, I tried using Sketchup for the 1st time to figure out these cuts. I'm sure once I'm familiar with it it'll go smoother, still it's pretty slick. Forgive the fonts, that seems to be an element I can't figure out.

I think it makes more sense if the long cuts go first. Something like this.

Ben's sketchy Sketchup diagram.

For some reason I get a lot more waste than others (the rightmost 5 pieces except for the center row that made the lids and migratory cleats). Am I missing something?

[Monie]

I think it looks pretty good. The only thing I would add is to account for the width of the saw blade; typically, 1/8". Of course, I'm anal and have to have everything spot on.

[Ben Brewcat]

True and good to point out. I specifically excluded the dimensions of the waste pieces and included only the dimensions of the work pieces for that reason. That means, for those not familiar with allowing for kerfs, that you can't just put a pencil line 10.25" under the first 10.25" and have it work out. You need to mark and cut the first, CUT IT, and then mark and cut and so on or each cut will be short by 1/8".

[D Coates]

I can see how the double end pieces for the frame rests add some strength, but I don't see how the box would be strong enough to use as a super to add to the top of a nuc. The bottom adds a lot of strength and a "super" would not have a bottom for that strength.

Fuzzybeekeeper

I didn't think so either but the end caps end up really seem to strengthening it up. I use the same glue and nails either way. Will it stand up to being dropped on a corner? I doubt it, but I treat them no differently than any of my other hardware. I have to remind myself that full, it's 1/2 of the weigh of a 10-frame deep. It's pretty light to handle. It works if you've got a nuc that's getting to big for it's britches but you don't want to put them in a deep.

[Dubhe]

I made about 10 similar nuc bodies (mediums) last season and while they seem to be holding up well, they are bowing out in the middle. I think 1/2 inch plywood works much better with the bottom attached to prevent this.