pollen traps

[jonnybee]

I'm considering placing a pollen trap on one of my hives this year. I have seen several types advertised. Top, bottom, and entrance types. Is one type supreior to an other? Is timing a factor? Should you suppliment with patties in the spring if you are harvesting pollen?
Appreciate any/all thoughts on the subject(s).

Thanks in advance,

jon

[alpha6]

I like and use this trap. It's a good design, keeps trash out of the pollen and the drawer can be mounted on either side which when using pallets is a plus.

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/ProductDe...&idCategory=14

The bees are pretty good about making sure they bring in enough pollen even with a trap. It doesn't trap it all. You will get a reduction in honey as more forgers go after pollen which leaves less for gathering nectar, but not a significant reduction. Some of my strongest hives had pollen traps...go figure.

[jdpro5010]

While I don't have a ton of experience at it, I prefer the Sundance bottom mount trap. Very little if any debris in pollen and the drawer empties in the back of the hive. It is very similar to the one Alpha listed from Mann Lake.

[BEES4U]

3/15/10

I made a screened bottom for two hives, blocked the entrance, stapled three bee way space cleats on a flat cover, pointed the entrance to the front of the hives so that the bees can learn to use their new top entrance before I put on the new Sundance 11 top mounted pollen traps
3/13/10 There was a lot of confused bees landing on the old lower entrance.
3/14/10 I could see pollen and nectar foragers using their new upper entrance.
3/15/10
The # 1 SD 11 hive has very few bees returning to the old lower entrance.
The # 2 SD 11 hive is not as strong. But, they too have been using their upper entrance
It's warm and windy today.
I put on the new Sundance 11 pollen traps.
I ordered two telescoping covers for the traps from Dadant in Fresno Calif.
When the T. covers come in I will paint them and switch out the old covers
3/16/10 or sooner I will check the bees activity to see how long it takes them to adjust to their new situation.
to be continued:
Ernie

[BEES4U]

3/15/10 5:34 PM
The bees have not figured out how to get through their pollen trap. They got out the wire cones, But, they have not been able to enter the trap, drop their pollen loads and ente the hive.
Perhaps the bees are to big for going through the trap's wire spacing/
The Dadant T. covers came in today. I am not to impressed with the workmanship. And, I asked the sales person if they were assembled. Yes they are was the reply. So. in the future I will make my own. I thought that I would use them to keeep the rain off the traps.
I will check the pollen traps again on 3/16/10
Ernie

[BEES4U]

While I don't have a ton of experience at it, I prefer the Sundance bottom mount trap. Very little if any debris in pollen and the drawer empties in the back of the hive. It is very similar to the one Alpha listed from Mann Lake.

mann Lake has one listed by the name Superior. Is that the one you are using?
How long did it take the bees to settle down and you could start emptying the pollen?
Thank you in advance,
Ernie

[BEES4U]

I like and use this trap. It's a good design, keeps trash out of the pollen and the drawer can be mounted on either side which when using pallets is a plus.

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/ProductDe...&idCategory=14

The bees are pretty good about making sure they bring in enough pollen even with a trap. It doesn't trap it all. You will get a reduction in honey as more forgers go after pollen which leaves less for gathering nectar, but not a significant reduction. Some of my strongest hives had pollen traps...go figure.

___________________________

SUPERIOR POLLEN TRAP:

Fits below brood chamber

"Easy harvest" pull out drawer
Fits standard 10 frame equipment.
Close by pulling the tubes for 2-3 days every week to allow the bees sufficient stores
_____________
The SUPERIOR may be better for my operation.
I like the design of the tubes.
Thank you,
Ernie

[BEES4U]

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