LET'S TALK OH DESIGN, MANAGEMENT & EXPERIENCES.
I'm on my #2 prototype.
First question; best glass to glass ID" ?
I'm on my #2 prototype.
First question; best glass to glass ID" ?
Observation Hives are not stand alone hives pretty much by definition. You need support colonies to switch out brood and honey to keep the colony in balance.
Hey Erin
I read with great interest your post on Observation Hive (OH) Enthusiasts' a thread I started. I have to say you’ve added a great deal of definitive info. to the thread.
I am determined to bring the knowledge and enjoyment bees to a wider audience and there is no better way to do the than with an observation hive, for beekeepers, new beekeepers and non-beekeepers. I’m trying to create an optimum design and your experience and comments are greatly appreciated.
It does seem to me that one of the central problems in getting an ObH thru a long winter is their need to “cluster”. Indeed I’ve had an Obh; 4 deep frames, two high, two across(allowing for better clustering) and it survived 10 years, in mid west winters, with out ever opening it, until I moved. Of course most of the action took place where you couldn’t see it.
I’ve got two single wide; a 4deep and a 5deep going now. They both have solved their own problems since this last spring; including creating a new queen and over crowding. They’ve plenty of honey and plenty of bees and good queens to start this winters mode. But, up here, it’s a long long while till spring and were probably talking Jan and Feb. 10 to 0- degree weather. It’s going to bee a stretch.
I’m just pondering??; is it a temperature thing, a genetic thing, what? In a single wide.
I wonder about “life span” problem between laying seasons??
What can be done to get a single wide to survive the winter??
Thanks again for your valuable knowledge and I look forward to your comments.
Mark
Here’s a video of my current designs, I hope it works;
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/bonterrabees/?action=view¤t=ObHpromo.flv