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Thread: bee vac

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    965

    Default Re: bee vac

    I made one based on the design of iddee's bee vac

    http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...nt=BEES019.jpg

    I made it so that the plexiglass can slide to regulate vacuum, and instead of #8 hardware cloth used window screening I had on hand already.

    Window screen restricts airflow too much, I intend to replace it with #8 hardware cloth. The airflow I had was barely acceptable, but was very gentle on the bees. I don't think that there were many losses attributable to the vac.
    I used a smooth hose.

    All in all, I liked how it worked very much. Another advantage of a sliding plexiglass is that you can pull it partway out and have a lot of ventilation for the bees during transport. If you do that, I'd duct tape the plexi in place once it is adjusted to prevent inadvertent release of the bees if it slipped, though.

    I'll try to take and upload some pics in the next day or two, if you'd like.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Massachusets, Bristol County
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: bee vac

    I forgot to metion I also used a 1 1/2" hole saw drilled a hole and place a plexi glass on a screw to regulate the vacuum. it works well however one must put six frames in the deep super for them to hang on to or they end up on the bottom screen after fighting gravity and vacuum force. At first I had thirty percent kill after installing the frames only 5 percent if that. Works great. I will keep your email take some pictures of it and attach them so you can see it. best device I have ever built. I had a swarm 1' off ground I put the bee vac just under it and using my hands cupped as many as possible to put them in the box less top piece. The remainder could not be had using hands so put top on tightened down and started my shop vac to gently suck up remainder. I hives them and they are doing great. Any wisdom I can offer is free for me the bees are key. Honey is golden the money I am holden. ha

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: bee vac

    Finished making the BushKill vac.



    Bottom board.



    Top without sliding insert. #8 hardware cloth attached below insert.



    Top.



    Hose to vac gets attached to left hole, right hole is adjusted for suction.
    Regards, Barry

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Massachusets, Bristol County
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: bee vac

    From what I have been removing you will need a compartment ten times bigger to fit them in. That thing is way to small. You better build ten of them seriously. My deep and shallow full to the brim and needed to use my tub vac as well on two becaue there were so many bees. I see you have not don any removals. please take my addvice go bigger. I wil try to take pix of mine today so you can see it. Chow

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: bee vac

    All I can say is, I see you do not know what the Bushkill vac is and how it works! All you see is the top and bottom parts to the vac system. One can sandwich as many brood chambers between the two for any size extraction. Come on, I'm not that green!
    Regards, Barry

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Massachusets, Bristol County
    Posts
    39

    Default Re: bee vac

    That's what I get for not searching out the entire system prior to commenting. Sorry greenie. Go luck with removals BARRY

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Stillwell, KS
    Posts
    642

    Default Re: bee vac

    Good job Barry. Did you build the removable 1" shim with the sliding screen also?

    Don

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Rhinebeck, NY
    Posts
    74

    Default Re: bee vac

    I built my bee-vac based on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=van2yWX3xhs -- I used 10" and 12" tubes and trimmed a 3" thick piece of foam glued to a trimmed piece of corrugated plastic sign board with the same construction adhesive I used to glue the plumbing insulation foam to the end of the tubes. I also used hot glue and duct tape to attach the screen to the "inner tube"

    It works great with next to no mortality. The only down side is keeping it vertical. And, as others have said, the vacuum control gate needs to be set for just barely enough suction so they lose their grip on whatever they are standing on. Once it's all done, I cap the hose adapter with a vitamin bottle and take the inner out for the ride home -- there's a huge amount of ventilation so they do not overheat.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: bee vac

    Don, not yet, but I plan to do so. The latest cut-out the bees had been sprayed, so I wasn't going to keep the comb. I bought enough #8 hardware cloth to make the shim.

    After looking at all the various bee vac designs out there, I felt Rob's Bushkill vac was the best one. Being able to vac the bees right into the final hive is a great plus, less stress. There are other designs that will work for very high places that are small, but for most situations, he's got a great design.
    Regards, Barry

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: bee vac

    I think it was Dixiebooks that was wanting me to give dimensions of the Bushkill vac. Here is what I did.

    Bottom Board:

    2) 3/4"x3"x19-7/8" (3/4x3/8" rabbet on each end)
    2) 3/4"x3"x15-1/2"
    1) 1/4"x15"x18-3/4" laun plywood
    2) 1/4"x3" eye bolts

    Before assembling, I cut a 1/4"x1/8" dado into the four bottom boards to accept the plywood on a slope. The top of the plywood bottom starts 1/4" down from the top edge in back and is the same on the front board, only reversed. The eye bolts are centered on the sides and holes drilled so I could get a 1-1/4" fender washer on both sides below the plywood bottom. The 2-1/4" hole in front is centered all directions as well. I used 1/4" luan for the movable cover as well. It measures 4-1/2"x 2-7/8".



    Top:

    2) 3/4"x3"x19-7/8" (3/4x3/8" rabbet on each end)
    1) 3/4"x3"x15-1/2"
    1) 3/4"x1-13/16"x15-1/2"
    1) 3/4"x3"x14-3/4" center brace
    App. 11-1/2 ft.) 3/4"x3/8" strips for attaching #8 hardware cloth
    1) 3/4"x15-3/8"x20-3/4" plywood removable lid

    Before assembling the 3" boards, I cut a 3/4"x3/8" dado in them, beginning 7/16" down from the top. Assemble with the 3" brace centered and right to the bottom of the dado. I stapled(cleated) the 3/4" strips all around each side of the center brace, installed the hardware cloth, stapled another set of 3/4" strips all around.

    The lid has the holes centered. Starting from the front, first hole is 1" dia. centered 13/16" from front edge. Second hole is 2-1/4" dia. centered 5-3/8" from front edge. Third hole is 2-1/4" dia. centered 16-3/4" from front edge. Movable suction cap is 4-1/4" square made from 1/4" luan.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Barry; 08-27-2011 at 12:08 PM.
    Regards, Barry

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Kingsport, Sullivan, Tennessee
    Posts
    780

    Default Re: bee vac

    Barry- Your vac looks great. Now, if you could build another one and, this time, take step-by-step pics. your pics are the best I've seen yet for this design that shows the detail of how the parts are cut and put together. In fact, the pic of your vac bottom is sufficient. It is the top that I am still fuzzy on. Also, what is this other "insert" that was mentioned. What is it for and where does it go? (I know...I just opened this up to some wisecracks about where to stick that insert but Barry will keep it straight...lol). Thanks. -james

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Surfside Beach, SC
    Posts
    249

    Default Bushkill bee vac build

    Barry,

    You did a great job of building this vac and posting the details of the build. Thank you!

    Are you pleased with the performance of it? Does it improve the mortality rate of the bees you vacuum?

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: Bushkill bee vac build

    Tom -

    AFAIC, it's the cat's meow. There is basically no mortality. Any mortality happens at the suction end of the hose by smashing a bee or two. I can't improve on the design.
    Regards, Barry

  14. #34
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Surfside Beach, SC
    Posts
    249

    Default Re: Bushkill bee vac build

    Barry,

    That's great! I will be building mine next week. I've already ordered a more powerful (and quieter) vacuum, and am looking forward to using this design and not having a bunch of dead bees after a removal.

    Thanks a lot for your great pictures and instructions. You made a real beauty, and it's obvious that you have some woodworking skill.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 1999
    Location
    DuPage County, Illinois USA
    Posts
    9,385

    Default Re: Bushkill bee vac build

    The vac I use with mine is a 16 gallon Craftsman, very much like yours.
    Regards, Barry

  16. #36
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,824

    Default Re: bee vac

    I found this year that swarms in the afternoon that have just landed are loose and easy to vacuum, as are the bees on cutout combs, only one or two layers thick and few casualties. But swarms that have hung out over a cool night are tightly bound and it takes more poking and scraping to get them suckled up, and therefore more casualties. One of these nozzles is helpful for swarms in thickety bushes and blowing bees from honey supers:

    http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Vac-90683.../dp/B001MSF19E

    Also at five or more extension wands and an extra hose. Combine those with a 12" ladder and you can get swarms about 20' up. Did two 16'ers this year.

    http://www.shopvac.com/shopvac-acces...906-84-00.aspx

    Those removal vac motors also make dandy bee blowers for honey removal. I use a Ridgid brand.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rockford, MI
    Posts
    2,512

    Default Re: bee vac

    For vacuuming swarms, a vac that has the frames inserted is the way to go. For cutouts, a vac that holds just the bees is just the ticket.
    Typically in most cutouts, you are framing the comb and for most cutouts you will need about two to three medium supers with frames. It makes more sense to add the bees to the hive from the vac when you get to the yard.
    I just remove the top of my vac exposing the screen when finished, flip upside down once the hive is in place at the yard and pull the shim. After a couple of days remove the vac system and install inner cover and top.

    In a pinch, I did have roughly 20k of bees in a 5 frame medium vac from a swarm I vac'ed. The frames made it possible to keep air movement and keep the bees cool. Within a half an hour, they were in a ten frame medium with drawn comb.

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