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Pumps for Sugar Syrup

52K views 88 replies 26 participants last post by  Keith Jarrett 
#1 ·
I would like to hopefully build a unit that I can quickly fill bottles of sugar syrup. Right now, I do it manually and it is tough on my back and time.

I would like to have like a 30-50 gallon uniit in the bakc of my truck with a pump and a motor so I can use a hose to quickly fill the feeding bottles.

I just do not know what type of pump to buy. Doesnt need to pump honey but just sugar syrup.

Any affordable recomendations?
 
#28 ·
I am going to try:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4YD42

I talked with one of the tec guys who happens to be a beekeeper and he said this should work. I can return it within 30 days. I plan to test it out tomorrow.

I HOPE it works. My back is killing me with the 5 gallon pails of syrup.
 
#29 ·
Chef, Looks like the best of all worlds. The diaphram pump should overcome and shear effect and its even 12V. The thing this gives up is the ability to draw from a high head, hence the 4.5 gpm @ 0 ft . If the pump stays below the syrup tank, I think you got it. The folks at Grainger are good to work with. Bought stuff from them for 20 years.

Let us know,

Tom
 
#33 ·
rainesridgefarm wrote:

"I also would like to know a low cost way I trasfer from the 2100 gal tote to the 275 gal tote on the back of the truck to pails to feed"

and Chef Isaac wrote:

"what do you think?

http://www.everygenerator.com/Pacer-...C-PCP1003.html

will it work with 2:1 syrup?"

Pacer centrifugal pumps are what I have experience with. They work great for syrup transfer. Yes they will pump cold heavy syrup from bulk into smaller tanks like rainesridge is talking about. Probably can get by cheaper with 3.5 hp below:

http://www.everygenerator.com/Pacer-Pumps-SE2YL-E3CP-PCP1096.html
 
#35 ·
Chef,

The spec on the pump is 4.5 gpm @ 0 ft hd. If the pump is at the bottom of the barrel the "head" is the length the pump has to draw the syrup up before it starts going back down. However, once it has done this, it will then be a syphon and gravity will take over. Without seeing the delimiting graph for the pump head vs. GPM its hard to know when it will stop pumping because the head pressure is too great.

I took a 55 gallon stainless open head drum and welded a fitting along the bottom edge. The pump and the outlet are then at the same height and pumping the entire contents of the barrel is not a problem.

Hope it works, I may have to get one myself.

Tom
 
#38 ·
Chef there is no such thing as a stupid question.a propane tank has a bleader valve.fill your tank with syrup.fill your tank with your desired amount of air.to pressurize the tank so you can push the syrup at your desired speed or volume.As the tank gets lower on syrup.hook up the handy dandy compressor once again to your power point in your truck.
 
#42 ·
If you have a way to put fittings on your 55 gallon drum (I use the blue food-grade HDPE drums which are easy to fit with piping), set it up so that you have the output on one side of the top of the drum, and on the other opening at the top of the drum a vent with 90 degree elbow going to a length of pipe to extend past the top of the drum when placed on its side. Then all you have to do is fill it after you place it on its side (chock it so it doesn't roll) and then you should be able to pump without any problem.

Use this method with all types of solutions here on the farm.



MM
 
#45 ·
I do have one. Not sure if it will work with 2:1. Working with two other beekeepers who have posted info on this to help me out. I just want to make sure it will pump cold 2:1. To be honest with you Keith, my back is killing me from hauling buckets around and instead of just buying one and trying it and it not working, they cost a good amount so some research I needed to do and get a better understanding of how they work and what I should look for.
 
#47 ·
Sheri, are you requiring Keith to read every thread? Come on, cut him a little slack! Can't you see he getting a little edgy by be compelled to have to read the thread. :)
 
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