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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,742

    Default

    >Would 1/4" dowels work?

    No. Use 5/16" dowels.

    >Do the ends get shaped (rounded)?

    Yes round them. it works nicely to use a pencil sharpener to make just a little taper and then round them from there. Course (40 to 60 grit) sandpaper can be used to round it and then finer paper to smooth it.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    morehead city, nc, usa
    Posts
    378

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aram View Post
    Maybe a dumb question but...
    Will the bees transfer larvae into empty cups on a frame positioned midheight between brood frames? Or do these cups work only if grafted?
    There has been some discussion here about whether or not the bees will move eggs. I would say not. As to moving larvae, I'd say definitely not. Doolittle, if I understood him correctly, once observed a queen laying in one of his prepeared cups but I wouldn't want to count on that happening consistently. To answer your question, the cups are intended for grafting. If you want a larva in there you better do it yourself.
    "Lead, follow, or get out of they way". Thomas Paine

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Accord, NY
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Ol Klear(OK)!
    Thank you both.
    Aram

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,742

    Default

    ONCE I had a queen lay eggs in my queen cups that got left too long... I wouldn't plan on it.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salisbury, NC USA
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Bizzybee
    Would you use the 150 or the 160 to make wax cup molds? I am thinking about using the plastic cells to make them...do you think that would work?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Loganville, GA
    Posts
    2,172

    Default

    I used the 160 because I had it on hand at the time. I had been using it to replicate some plastic parts I needed.

    It works fine, but I would like to have a more pliable mold than the 160 provides. If I remember correctly, the difference between the 150/160 is pot time but provides the same end result. The shore hardness for the material will confirm that. You should see those values on each at their website.

    Maybe the honeyman will chime in and lend an offer for a better mold material for wax. We had a conversation some time back about a new silicon rubber he was trying out for candles that sounded like it might fit the bill better. I don't recall where he was getting it though? I don't know if he will come forward or not though? Trade secretes and all ya know

    I like the cups a lot that I make with the mold. They can easily be used in the confinement cage with the queen or for grafting. They can also be attached to the cell bars with the system cup holders just as the plastic cups are. Easy to recycle wax.
    "Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts." Winston Churchill

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lake county, Indiana 46408-4109
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Hobby cast is what I used the last candle molds I made

    http://hobbysilicone.com/Silicone.htm

    and I dont remember the brand name of the first I used but its a little cheaper and worked just as well it was the 150 stuff I think
    Ed, KA9CTT profanity is IGNORANCE made audible
    you can`t fix stupid not even with duct tape

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