Argghh, you beat me to it. I too also hire some of the local kids to help when it is time to paint the bodies. Gives them some money and a sense of accomplishment. It also means that since they have worked on them, they are less likely to throw rocks etc at them later or otherwise bug the hives
I never noticed that. Our shop cat doesn't even have a name, we just call her 'cat'. The owner, Dave, did have some names for her when he witnessed her catch a pigeon in midair.
Now that I think about it, since the only reason she exists, and why Dave buys her food, is to control the rodent population, why did he get so upset when she caught a pigeon midair?
i don't paint my hives call me lazy but i use Copper Naphthenate and it perserves the wood from rot and wood eating insects. and if you get the brown not the green solution your hives take the cedar look to them. does no harm to the bees just make sure you let it cure 24 hours be for placing any bees in the hives.
How do you apply the copper stuff? At the time dad has us mixing it with laquer thinner and dipping them. I'm wondering if there is a better or another way I can try.
I have a tub set up and filled with it. I take all of my unassembled parts and submerge them for 15 minutes or longer and allow them to soak up all they will take. Let dry for a few days before assembly. It doesn't take that long to dry but also doesn't hurt.
The only active ingredient is copper. But the petroleum carrier oil needs to be well dried before allowing the bee's to come in contact with it. I typically don't have bees on the wood any earlier than a week after soaking and assembly. And I also leave everything outside after treating. Any rain will only serve to rinse the surface.
There is also a water based version but it's harder to find and more costly if you have to consider shipping. It's called copper quinolate, I haven't personally used it and have no idea if it is as good?
Side note: I also wipe clean, any residue that hasn't dried on the surface after a day. If you do plan to paint over the parts, it will not stick if any residue is left on the wood. Wiping and leaving for another day or so to dry will avoid that problem.
I buy it from home depot and its about 4 dollars cheaper then buying it from a bee supplier. I just take a throw away brush apply and let dry for 24 hours and then take out side and let air out a day or two and good to go no rot no wood destroying insects to worry about. and it give you that cedar look too unless you use the green stuff.
Who uses exterior latex like I do vs oil based and why?
I've always painted the top and bottom edges of my boxes but have struggled with them sticking together since I use exterior latex paint. I like the petroleum jelly idea.
I don't paint the top or bottoms, but the sides I do... even in the 60's and
70's I never did either. Barry paints everything, inside and out. All depends on you. One thing I ca note: If you paint the tops and bottom edges, give them a rub with steel wool or sand paper or set them on the ground to get a little dirt on them... that will stop the sticking together. Even after you wipe the dirt off the stickiness will be diluted.
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