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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

    Default Painting Hive Bodies

    I was wondering if there was a faster way to paint hive bodies. I know some use a spray gun and some stack up boxes and use a rolling pin to paint.

    Any other ways?

    I have 30 to paint tomorrow and would like to stack them up and paint them somewhat quicky (I have to work all weekend).

    Any ideas?

    Thank you!
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Fresno California USA
    Posts
    2,479

    Default Painting & other things

    Never time to do it right, always time to do it twice.
    Use some old boxes until the new ones are really ready for years of use. What would Grandpa have done?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    SNOHOMISH, WA, USA
    Posts
    267

    Default

    spraying is about the fastest way I can think of, I like the roller as it puts a thicker coat on.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

    Default

    Tom:

    I do not mean to do it wrong. I can apply a couple coats on it but I just cant take the time to paint them one by one like I used to do.
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
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    4,398

    Default

    Old: Do you still need to paint the top sides (like where the fame rests are)?
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    SNOHOMISH, WA, USA
    Posts
    267

    Default

    Chef, thats where its hard to find a time saving way to do things, the sides are easy no matter how you do it, but getting paint on the edges takes time. About the only short cut is to use a fast drying paint and crank the heat up.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Fresno California USA
    Posts
    2,479

    Default Chef

    Sorry I was a little rude wasn't I? Roller is good for 30 boxes. Airless sprayer will cover a lot of sq' but more paint is wasted. Primer, cure time, finish coat(s), really though you can change out old boxes easy take the time for proper prep & paint on new ones.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

    Default

    thats assuming one has old boxes!
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pigeon Falls, WI
    Posts
    2,527

    Default

    Stack the boxes as high as you can reach. Put board across top with a brick or something else heavy to prevent them from moving while painting. Use heavy nap roller to apply paint then follow up with brush to get hand holds and inside joints spreading paint applied with roller. After set-up it shouldn't take much time to paint all 30. Use a good quality outdoor primer for first coat. The bees will coat the frame rests with wax and propolis over time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Valley Center, CA
    Posts
    190

    Default

    For 30, I would use a roller. Where I work (Farmer Bees) we use a sprayer, but we do several hundred at a time.

    The little X shaped plastic spacers intended to be used when setting ceramic tile (Home Depot) will prevent the boxes from sticking to each other.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Auger Hole, MN
    Posts
    433

    Arrow

    buy cypress boxes from Rossman and skip the paint altogether.....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

    Default

    I painted the boxes and I love the stack and roll method. One question i have is the stick pretty bad and some are hard to take apart. Any tricks?
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    73

    Default

    Just pick the stack of boxes up and drop them on their sides on the floor,they will break apart with no harm done.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Valley Center, CA
    Posts
    190

    Default

    Get a bag of ceramic tile spacers from Home Despot and put one on each corner as you stack the boxes. This will leave about a 1/8" gap between each box. Works great, the paint doesn't stick well to the plastic.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Iroquois County IL
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Small, Jr View Post
    Get a bag of ceramic tile spacers from Home Despot and put one on each corner as you stack the boxes. This will leave about a 1/8" gap between each box. Works great, the paint doesn't stick well to the plastic.
    Do you get much over spray inside?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Valley Center, CA
    Posts
    190

    Default

    It's hard to tell due to how we treat the boxes. First we dilute an oil based primer 50-50 and dip the boxes. They drain on a rack and are then stacked head high using the tile spacers. A scrap box is used on the bottom so we don't have to spray too close to the ground. Then we spray a full strength coat of primer & two coats of paint.

    You can't see overspray because the inside of the boxes are already white, though you can still see the grain.

    Here's a photo:

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...&id=1608293741
    Last edited by Terry Small, Jr; 04-05-2009 at 06:29 PM. Reason: to add image

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pigeon Falls, WI
    Posts
    2,527

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chef Isaac View Post
    I painted the boxes and I love the stack and roll method. One question i have is the stick pretty bad and some are hard to take apart. Any tricks?
    Work hive tool into side of super(not the end where the endbars go) and pry down. Make sure paint is good and dry. To help insure that the ends don't break score paint between supers with knife. It doesn't have to cut through, it just has to "scratch" in good. I had 1 out of 100 boxes crack on frame rest but I didn't knife between supers.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Millersville, Maryland
    Posts
    56

    Default

    I'm going to make a suggestion that is contrary to what many beekeepers practice.

    I've been involved in beekeeping (although not heavily) since the 1970's. Over the years I've taken note as to where super boxes rot. Its my observation that they mainly rot in two places.

    First, since most beekeepers don't paint the top and bottom edge of the box (to prevent sticking) the wood absorbs water and begins to rot at the box edges. Also, the dovetails absorb water and rot, but with a little maintenance to a much lesser degree if they're kept painted.

    So, years ago I began painting the top and bottom edges of the boxes. When they're dry, I apply a very small quantity of petroleum jelly to the top and bottom edges of the boxes. Just a tiny amount is needed or they'll slide around.

    This kills two birds. 1) The boxes last MUCH longer, actually I haven't had any rot 2) They no longer stick together. Just a little tool action is needed. Plus the supers stay looking nicer for a longer period of time.

    Since a tiny amount of petroleum is used, it doesn't squeeze out and the bees don't come in contact with it.

    It only takes a couple minutes longer to paint the edges and it makes the boxes last longer.

    I also suppose that if you didn't paint the edges and still used petroleum jelly, it would also reduce rot. But, I haven't tried that.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Iroquois County IL
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Truchaos View Post
    I'm going to make a suggestion that is contrary to what many beekeepers practice.

    I've been involved in beekeeping (although not heavily) since the 1970's. Over the years I've taken note as to where super boxes rot. Its my observation that they mainly rot in two places.

    First, since most beekeepers don't paint the top and bottom edge of the box (to prevent sticking) the wood absorbs water and begins to rot at the box edges. Also, the dovetails absorb water and rot, but with a little maintenance to a much lesser degree if they're kept painted.

    So, years ago I began painting the top and bottom edges of the boxes. When they're dry, I apply a very small quantity of petroleum jelly to the top and bottom edges of the boxes. Just a tiny amount is needed or they'll slide around.

    This kills two birds. 1) The boxes last MUCH longer, actually I haven't had any rot 2) They no longer stick together. Just a little tool action is needed. Plus the supers stay looking nicer for a longer period of time.

    Since a tiny amount of petroleum is used, it doesn't squeeze out and the bees don't come in contact with it.

    It only takes a couple minutes longer to paint the edges and it makes the boxes last longer.

    I also suppose that if you didn't paint the edges and still used petroleum jelly, it would also reduce rot. But, I haven't tried that.

    I'm painting edges as I type this, taking a break, with a roller.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Owen, WI, USA
    Posts
    2,553

    Default

    Yes we have always painted edges also.
    When we spray the boxes after they are roller primed, we stack them in a manner that the edges are offset a bit from each other, twisted on top of the one beneath it, they are easy to pop apart once dry.
    Sheri

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