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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Casper, Wy, USA
    Posts
    827

    Default Parafin Dipping - Alternative Wood Finishes

    Hi Guys,

    Here's a neat chart for those interesting in using non-paint type finishes:

    http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a

    I just hate painting. And am looking for another kind of finish. Would like to dip. But don't have enough equipment to justify the setup.

    Regards
    BWrangler
    I once wrangled bees. But now, I know better, so I do better.
    Bee Natural

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sparta, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,144

    Default

    BW, you need to find another beekeep with a dipping set up and become that persons friend. I have a few that use my set up. They buy the beeswax and/or pariffin and rosin they plan to use. When I am done, they draw a line on the outside of the tank at the level (with chalk) and make sure I am left with my initial quantity in the tank. They bring their 20 pound propane tank also. These are the same beekeeps that help me when I am in a pinch....

    Now one of my friends started building his beekeeping equipment here also, cuts down on travel time and moving effort. I think I'll start charging him storage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by Jeffzhear; 03-15-2009 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Added another comment

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    College Station, Texas
    Posts
    6,968

    Default

    I have always liked the looks of dipped hive bodies.

    For you folks that have used this process (jeff, bwrangler) do you think it makes the hive bodies last longer, shorter, about the same? Is there ever any need for reapplication?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Lancaster, Ky. / Frostproof Fl.
    Posts
    1,000

    Default

    I dip at 200 Degrees for 12 hrs.....92% parfin and 8% copper nafinate(sp) Some treated in1994 ....still look like new!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Union Kentucky
    Posts
    49

    Default Parafin & Gum Rosin Dipping

    I have not seen the need to redip anything yet. I believe this will take care of them for many years to come. In the long run if you are going to dip any quanity of hives bodys believe it or not I think this will cost you less money than painting them. It just makes it so much easier to do also. I can dip 20 hive bodys and the level of product doesn't even seem to go down. Maybe a 1/4 inch. I have read that a large hive body will take about 28grams of product.
    Here is a link to my setup. http://www.flickr.com/photos/27288326@N08/

    Any questions just let me know.
    Bruce

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sparta, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,144

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tecumseh View Post
    I have always liked the looks of dipped hive bodies.

    For you folks that have used this process (jeff, bwrangler) do you think it makes the hive bodies last longer, shorter, about the same? Is there ever any need for reapplication?
    I can't really comment on how long it makes the hive bodies last as I have only been dipping two seasons now. I will say this, the water beads up on my equipment like the first day I put them in the field. I believe they will last much longer (many many years) than painted equipment with much less maintenance. The time savings by dipping vs painting is so significant, I would never go back to painting anything unless I couldn't get it in my dipping tank.

    Some of the advantages: No chipped paint, no harm if you scrape, bump, etc. No touch up of paint. No worries when you scrape down the propolis buildup on the edges of your boxes/equipment.

    The boxes are natural wood color and don't stand out like painted equipment. They do weather, in that they get dirty, ect. but they look even more naturale'.

    I haven't had to re-dip any equipment yet, however, there won't be any paint scraping, high pressure water removal of paint, priming and repainting. Just drop the equipment in the tank for 10 min's plus or minus and I'm good to go.

    Now, I have had one box out 150 split and separate on one side (eight inches - with the grain) in a weak spot while dipping and one migratory cover warp. Other than that, no problems. I suspect that if I dipped with select equipment I would have even better results, as there are less knots and imperfections to cause problems.

  7. #7

    Default

    Great photos, Kentucky bee. Looks like a good way to treat and preserve hives.
    Try to learn something new every day and give thanks for all your blessings.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Friendsville, Maryland, USA
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: Parafin Dipping - Alternative Wood Finishes

    so im new to all this, mind you...

    my father and I are skiiers, we wax our skiis with a little heat iron.

    you all think I could use that to wax my hive?

    also, BW this link I cant see, can you repost with an updated URL? maybe?
    http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    48,591

    Default Re: Parafin Dipping - Alternative Wood Finishes

    BWrangler (Dennis Murrel) has basically retired the web site and is posting the link to the archive:
    http://web.archive.org/web/201406181...stick.me/bees/

    I don't see the part about dipping on there now, but you can search and see what you can find.

    Here is my section on dipping:
    http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdipping.htm
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Liberty Lake, WA, USA
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: Parafin Dipping - Alternative Wood Finishes

    I'm wondering the same thing as kimb.
    Being set up for dipping is just not in my near future. I haven't found anything saying "DO NOT try to wax your boxes like they're a pair of skis!" So my plan is to melt down a 2:1 mix of beeswax to pine rosin, pour it into bread pans and while it's soft enough, cut it into chunks I can shred in an old food processor. Then I'll sprinkle a layer of the shreds on each box side and iron it in well - or maybe use a heat gun at least on the handholds, because those contours would be a pain to work with an iron.

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