Does any one know of a company that will ship 1200 cu.feet of peat moss? Of course I would like a reasonable price too. I need it for my blueberry plants that are coming in 30 days... Help!
Have you checked with your local nursery or sand and gravel type place?
I got loam and compost delivered from my local sand and gravel company and they do offer peat moss.
The company I work for will sell and ship peat moss. Only probelm is I can't get a quote until Monday. Shipment would be from Alabama. firstname.lastname@example.org
I hate to recommend them, but the nursery i bought my plants from said to buy the big square bundles of peat moss at Wal-Mart. Jack
am I doing the math right...that would be 40-50 yards worth?
I agree that you will need to talk to a place that provides gravel, bark, or topsoil. That is way too many cubes from wallmart!!
Yep, that's a lot
My local lumbar yard / center said it would be about 550 bales of the 2.2 cu bales they now come in. He's getting back with me about a price. Seems like a lot to me too. But the nursery that I'm getting the blueberry plants from suggested 1 cubic foot per plant... so, 1200 plants = 1200 cu feet. Does anyone else have any other experience?
I'd like to have a little more info on the existing soil you will be planting into.
What is the current pH of your soil? What is the current percent of organic matter in your soil?
I stand behind these guidelines that NC State developed for blueberry cultivation.
"Soil pH - Blueberries require a lower pH than many other small fruit crops. Apply wettable sulfur (90% S) if pH is above 5.3 for rabbiteye blueberries or 5.0 for highbush blueberries. Use 1.0 pound (2.5 cups) per 100 square feet on sandy soils to lower pH by 1 unit (for instance, from 6.0 to 5.0). Apply 2.0 pounds per 100 square feet for the same amount of pH lowering on heavier soils containing silt, clay or more than 2% organic matter. Try to achieve a pH of around 4.8; too much reduction can be detrimental to bush growth. Apply sulfur at least 3 to 4 months before planting, and take another soil test before planting. If pH is still above the acceptable range, additional sulfur can be applied.
Organic Additions - If the soil contains less than 2% organic matter, the incorporation of peat moss or well-decayed pine sawdust or bark will improve plant survival and growth. Establish the rows on ridges to provide the required drainage. Apply 4 to 6 inches of the organic material over the row in a band 24 inches wide and incorporate thoroughly using a roto-tiller to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Preparing the beds in the fall will allow planting earlier in the season (late Feb. to late March depending on the location). If the organic material is incorporated in the fall, any sulfur required to lower the pH can be added at the same time. Avoid opening a furrow, adding the organic material and planting directly in the pure organic material. Water and nutrient management is likely to be difficult in the pure organic material and plants are more likely to become weak and die."
I'm hoping your are planting Highbush varieites as they are more cold hardy.
Also, you will need to read up on soils ability to buffer the changes you make in the pH. For example, you will need to develope a routine testing program, and determine how much sulfur you will need to add each year to maintain a chosen pH value.
Thanks WallieBee. Everything you say is true. But I do not have 3-4 months. I have 3-4 weeks. Having said that the blueberry suppliers recommend using some sulfur but reducing it to 4.5 from my 5.5 in just a few weeks will have detrimental effects on the soil. Therefore, they suggest that I use peat moss 1 plant : 1 cu foot of peat moss. Yes, ideally chanigng the pH prior to this year would have been great... had some "life issues" last fall and was unable to accomplish this. And as you may already know, one has to order their blueberry plants in large quantities more than a year in advance (in some cases). So my order was already in....
Am I mistaken in this? Thanks for your input!
Wow so how many plants did you order? Ive had rows prepped the previous year as well as doing them "last minute" in the spring. When Ive done it at the last minute I would use round-up to spray the rows ( I know-Monsanto add sulphur @ 5lbs per 100sq. ft, till it 5-7 days after all grass is dead, add a nice top layer of peat moss or compost etc, till again then dig your holes and mix about a 5 gallon pail of peat moss into the hole with the native soil and add an additional tablespoon of sulphur to the hole-mix well. Then soak it big time repeatedly-this was for putting in gallon sized 2-3 y/o plants on clay soil and no more than 24 at a time. Fertilize the following years with ammonium sulphate. This has worked well for me here in northern NY.
I think you are taking the best approach.
I was concerned that you might have gotten into planting this orchard without researching it first. I see that's not the case, and of course life issues never fit a plan regardless how well it's laid.
We all know people can come up with some pretty crazy ideas.
Have you tried Hummert International for the peat moss?
They are in St. Louis. That's not very far considering the amount you need.
I have not price shopped peat moss, so I don't know who got the best deal.
If you go to a garden center and ask for their BIGGEST bag of sulphur, you will be watched/followed for the rest of your visit!
Originally Posted by Beacon Woods