Again I'm in agreement with Baloo. You'll never look back. NCJHB has a complete section on homebrew kegging, and it's a book every homebrewer should have anyways. The difference between pinlock and ball-lock is availability, ease of use, and to some extent durability (all in ball-lock's favor). Functionally they are the same. I think the 5-lb CO2 bottles are great for most homebrewers, small enough to be portable and they have enough gas even to force-carbonate a good few batches plus dispensing them. If you end up drafting tons of beer and upgrade to a 20 pounder, keep the 5 for travelling and to use while you're waiting for a convenient time to refill the 20.
You'll LOVE kegging. Sanitize one keg instead of 50 bottles. Force-carbonate to your exact carbonation preference for that beer. Oh and did I mention BEER ON TAP .
The one thing I'll say though is to take the time to disassemble the keg when cleaning and sanitizing, including the in and out posts. It really is easy especially with a deep socket. Also have a couple replacement gasket sets (lid o-ring, post o-rings, dip tube o-rings) and maybe even a poppet. That way you'll never be tempted to leave one on there that really should be replaced.
And I can't stress this one enough: If you buy multiple kegs, keep the lids, poppets, posts, etc. with the keg they came from! There are a lot of kegs out there, and even the same part from another Spartanburg II or whatever may not work perfectly on a similar keg. They'll leak as often as not (meaning either empty keg and full floor in the morning or empty CO2 tank). I use a set of plastic beer cups (naturally) from our local festivals. They sit into the keg's opening but don't fall in due to their size at the top. When sanitizing or cleaning multiple kegs, put the parts from a keg into a cup, pour in sanitizer, and put the cup into the keg opening and the lid rests on top of that.
And lastly if you're using bleach to sanitize it's time to upgrade to Star San, at least for the kegs.
Bees, brews and fun
in Lyons, CO