Originally Posted by ScadsOBees
Chipper (round): The most versatile cutter type. The Chipper chain is the easiest to file and will tolerate the most dirt and dust. Chipper chain cuts smoothly and is sort of an all-purpose saw chain, for most tasks.
Chisel (square): This is the most aggressive chain cutter type. It is a square-cut design used by production logging crews and should only be used by experienced sawyers. Chisel chain requires a file that fits the square shape of the cutting edge, and therefore it is more difficult to file than other types of chain. Chisel chain also dulls very quickly when it is hits dirt. It is not recommended for brushing or limbing out logs because of the potential for kickback.
Semichisel: A less aggressive cutter type than chisel. Unlike the square cut of the chisel, a round file is used with a file guide when filing semichisel chain. The semichisel cutter is more tolerant of dirt and dust and stays sharp longer than the other cutters.
A low kickback chain is an option available for all three primary cutters, and allows safety for new users, or occasional users of the saws (or for anyone who wants to safely cut wood).
In addition to the cutter types, there are characteristics of the sequences of the chain lines, as: Standard, Semi-skip or full skip chain. The cutter sequence is based primarily on bar length, and usage. Standard (most cutters per length) is used on bars less than 24", Full skip on larger bars, and semi-skip for soft or fibrous woods. The antikickback features on saw chains are based on the design of what are called tie straps, which connect between the cutters.
In addition to MM's excellent list of chain info you have to
Originally Posted by ScadsOBees
match the bar gauge. The groove the chain rides in matters.
Keep that groove clean and now and then pull the bar off,
turn it "upside down" and file off the outer edge if it has a
burr. Rotating the bar will add life to the bar as it wears more
on the wood side due to pressure.
When the bar is off inspect the edges for heat discoloration and
Make sure the saw is always putting out adequate oil for
Little saws just don't do well with aggressive chain IMO.
They take a lot more power to cut.
Thanks for the info! It all makes good sense, even though it never occurred to me.
Scads, There are differnt "pitch" and size chains too. Your bar should give you the info you need. Its usually printed near the saw side of the bar w/ the amt of links that bar takes. So get the right chain w/ the roght amt of links too!!!!
Just be careful and you'll be fine.
Yuo are starting out w/ a small Paulin saw whick will work for small tasks. The more aggressive chains DO take some power to get that extra bite but it may work for you. ITs only around $8 so might be worth a try?
When and if you decide to get a bigger one I sure recomend Stihl saws.
Mine starts every time after 3-4 pulls. I've had McCollugh, Homelite, Huskavarna, and a few others but that Stihl sure outstarts them all!!! Just an FYI and opinion.
riverrat....you surf the treehouse?
nope cant say I have been there Pm me with the info
Originally Posted by No_Bivy
Could someone explain to me why it takes sooo many idiots like that to make the "world go round"
Too bad he ruined a good tool! Was the oil res empty? Could he have the wrong chain on it too? Its getting a nice chill in the air. Perfect chainsaw weather I think!!!!